rfdong

I use Kevlar thread so I can wrap faster, then epoxy. But I like it really clean. shrink wrap is ok but comes out bulkier to me.

You can use piano wire (ss) from music store or 60-80 lb mono or fluoro depending on which direction you want to go. I've used both, currently 80lb fluoro, but depends on what kind of cover you're fishing......

Thanks, I'll contact them but all the coffin style for open sale now are the larger size which I don't think is covered by the patent........

May I ask why you think so (about to change...)? I'm curious, I have a few of the old coffin style left, and value them as they do give off a different vibration than the rounded for sure. I did see Phenix is now using a modified coffin which my guess is different enough to get around the patent. They want $15 for 6 though........

Anyone figure out how to take shine off tungsten weights? Don't really need to color per se just want some of the shine off. Powdercoat can be a bit of a mess, pita for what I want. Vinegar doesn't seem to do it like lead. Thanks

Thanks guys! Some really great info

Thanks, some great info. I only refer to other mftr as a starting point. Not sure I am ever gonna get to the 102 different baits but you give me some great starting points. Any general tips about blade spacing? I really am going to stay with willow and Indiana blades to start. Again, thanks! Keep it coming! :-)

Second question, What difference does changing the length of a Buzzbait wire from R bend to head make? And for the blade arm, I would think it wouldn't make much difference but since I'm not sure I'll ask.☺

I got two questions similar in nature, regarding spinnerbait and Buzzbait wire lengths. I posted second topic for Buzzbait as to not confuse them. In regards to spinnerbaits what difference does it make to the bait regarding the distance from the R bend to the head? I notice that different baits from different companies can vary somewhat. Does it make a difference in either in how it runs? Speed at which you can run it? Or simply preference and how compact the bait appears? Second, what about blade arm? Is there a "standard" length? Ie end of the arm should be even with hook for instance? And does changing length make it run differently? I bought some pre-bent wires but not sure if they should be used "as is" or cut them as many baits i use have a shorter head to R bend length. Thanks!

I came home tonight and per the thread, started playing around. i found that bending the blade arm slightly upward away from the body completely cured it. It didn't need much of a tweak for slow speed retrieve. try it.

Tally, can you send me the pic? or post again? It's not coming up maybe too old? I'm having same problem with buzzbait. thanks

Anyone out there that can help me I'd appreciate it. I've been making a few buzzbaits for myself. Mostly use ones with clacker but been making a few without the last year. Now I've been having problems with the buzzbaits without the clacker wanting to run and lean about 30 degrees to the left. the ones with the clackers run straight. I figure it's related to weight on the front of the wire. I normally hold my rod up about 10 o'clock when retrieving. I'm using standard wire forms available from Barlows, heavy gauge wire. 5/0 hook and standard 1/2 delta blade. I thought it might be a weight problem but having same issue with 3/8 and 1/2 oz wts. I'm using the gold blade from Barlows and skirt type doesn't seem to matter. Any ideas? I can tune some of it away, but it doesn't want to run straight. I know some is due to rotation, but this is more than a little. thanks

OK, I have poured a few and am impressed with the stand up ability of this jig, gonna be a great flip jig. I have tried Netbait paca chunk, Berk chigger, and those two companies have salt so the trailer wants to lay down. Anyone have a craw/chunk trailer they know stands up or floats?

How are you opening the hook eye up? thanks

Stagio, When you mention the lighter jig don't stand up as well, what size/sizes are you referring to....I'm going to order the smaller sizes and want to know which size doesn't stand.....as well.....thanks Rob

I don't think that's anything more than the standard Arky style from Do-it. The newer style is with the flat eye but I would recommend the flat eye. I think it comes through cover better (I think you're using at delta?) and doesn't roll as much coming through/over tules. Flat eye in my own opinion is a better design.

Hi, I'm posting this here and on fly tying. Wanted to know what are the differences in body vs tail hair (deer or others) and what are the differences in types of hair? rabbit vs bear vs deer vs fox etc. I'm just getting into trying but want to cut down on some of the experimentation and cost of buying 50 different samples etc. I tied some with deer tail but they don't have a ton of action, and I'm not sure if that's what the whole deal is with hair jigs (not much action for cold weather) or if I got the wrong material?

Hi, I'm posting this here and on fly tying. Wanted to know what are the differences in body vs tail hair (deer or others) and what are the differences in types of hair? rabbit vs bear vs deer vs fox etc. I'm just getting into trying but want to cut down on some of the experimentation and cost of buying 50 different samples etc. I tied some with deer tail but they don't have a ton of action, and I'm not sure if that's what the whole deal is with hair jigs (not much action for cold weather) or if I got the wrong material?

I hope this helps somebody. I tried glueing weedguard in but it's too labor intensive for me. I like pouring with weedguard in and painting over as I think it stays in as good without the glue part after. Now, there's no free lunch so my way is somewhat labor intensive at the start. I use small bit of masking tape on the free end of the weedguard that way the heat doesn't spread the weedguard out when heated. I powder paint avoiding direct heat on the weedguard (obviously) and then heat in oven to cure. I remove the masking tape after curing (if you leave tape on for long time the glue will make a mess on the end of the weedguard, but if you trim your guards it doesn't matter) and my weedguards stay perfect. the tricky part of the whole process is heating the jighead without melting strands of weedguard. Now I only use for my own purposes not selling so I don't think this can be used effectively for mass production. But I pour about 50 heads at a time during the winter so I just take my time. It's the easiest thing I've found and don't have to have all the tubes around and a roll of tape lasts a long time with the amount you need to wrap around a weedguard. It's just a way to do it, but after experimentation it's what I do and have had good luck with it.

thanks for the link!

Anyone know of any companies selling hitchhiker type screws made of harder material? I see a few companies coming out with such but any selling as a separate item? The copper ones be pretty bent out of shape (using in shakey type head) and will break off after a few bendings........