jimbo

Thanks Matt didn,t see your post till today these are the two rods i,m looking at both st croix 2M80MHF and 5SC86HF2-G The second one is a steelhead rod but am thinking of cutting it back a few inches on each end that would give me a 8' and being 2 piece easier to travel with. The line and lure #,s are close to what i,m looking for and i think by cutting it down a bit those #,s should go up a tad.Not sure about enough backbone for setting the hook?. And voiding the warranty is another consideration. I don,t know maybe i,m way off on my thinking/ it,s not my first build but i,m still a novice builder for sure. Thanks Jim

okay i knew i was going to take a little heat on this one,wheres the darn edit button anyway lol Oh and thanks for the help Bob. Jim

Good Day haven,t been here for some time hope everyone,s doing ok, Thinking of building a freshwater striper rod for fishing off the bank.Need a little guidence in my selection,tne river is wide and 20 feet deep or more.I,m leaning towards a 8' 2pc musky rod 20-30# and 2-3oz.Haven,t decided on spinning or casting but am inclined to go with a casting.Would appreciate any input you guys might have. Thanks Jim

I did this one pretty much like Army Doc explained it Createx white opag Createx white pearl Createx black opag Createx trans orange Dr Ph Martins emerald Dr Ph Martins saffron yellow Two coats eTex

Try, WTP Inc they have them up to 3/4" i believe Jim

My old Midi (mini)lath just isn,t cutting it so i,m thinking of upgrading,but was wondering if i should replace it with another midi(JET or DELTA) or go full size. Space isn,t an issue so are there any advantages with going with the smaller version. It would be used for lures and cork grips ,i don,t have an interest in turning any bats or table legs .It just seems the full size aren,t that much more money and are readily available. What i,m asking is can a full size lathe do what a mini can. Any Thoughts Thanks Jim

Google ( Environmental Technology Inc) They carry it up to 1 gallon i believe plus a bunch of other stuff thats kind of interesting.

Scot Home Hardware still has the e-tex it,s in the paint section, aisle 36? towards the back, bottom row.Rona doesn,t carry the nu lustre 55 in st thomas but they,re going to check if london has it and give me a call i,ll let you know.If you buy the etex i found measuring it with syringes is the best. You can buy them at TSC can,t remember the price but i,ve been using the same ones for a few years now. Good Luck

Scot i bought e-tex at micheal,s crafts on wonderland across from home depot, that was about a year ago. last time i was in there a few weeks ago i didn,t see it so not sure if they still sell it or not. also saw it in home hardware (st thomas) about six months ago they had it in the 32 oz size around 40.00 i think. If micheal,s still carry it wait for they,re 40% off coupon in the london free press. That size will last you a long long time if your doing small cranks. If you want to try etex before buying it i could set you up with some. PM me if your interested Jim

My neighbour just bought one for 44.00 CAD when he got it home he realized it wasn,t self centering. Took it back got the self cen for 88.00 plus taxes. Place is called busy bees tools (busybeetools.com )

Unless i,m way off base here isn,t the stuff you guys are using the same as PVC decking,that can be used instead of wood on your deck. It,s poly vinyl &^%$ and wood dust mixed together ,right? Etch you should be able to get ahold of some where you are try calling your local handy man-deck builder guy and see if he,s got a piece left over from a job. Jimbo

All the grumpy guys must be in bed LOL. At any rate what you do first is read some of the threads on here theres tons of info about repaints,do a search ,upper right hand corner Once you,ve done that then if you have ques fire away. If you read all the threads we shouldn,t hear from you for a year or two (just joking). Really all the info is there and theres different ways you can do it, so read, get some ideas and then if you have any ques the guys will help. By the way, welcome to TU

Size 3 split with a # 2 treble would be pretty close but you should check a lure you already have to make sure you don,t change the action of it. Down load the split-ring page from Hagens or Lure Making .com and you shoud get accurate sizes to compare what is on your lures now.Print the page out don,t go by the size on your monitor it won,t be right. Or if you have a catalogue from one of the suppliers then the pics they use is usually a size chart for that product

In theory thats what should happen, IMHO .However i,m sure there are guys on here that have spent some time and effort on this sudject,sure you,ll here more on this.

Pete i checked that site holy smokes 700+ for a micron that guys way out of line. I do use templates but would like another brush for detail i bought a few knock off gravity feed .35mm that worked fine for a while but are just wore out now,i,ve even had rust around the trigger and can,t get parts for them etc. I,m really impressed with the iwata i have now so will stick with them. So a .2mm Hp-B gravity feed brush should do just fine and half the price of a micron,Hmmm maybe i can buy two. LOL. I certainly agree that air pressure, paint texture type of paint etc are important to a successful quality paint job and heaven knows i have lots of room for improvment in all those areas.As far as swapping parts on a iwata it was just a thought and was hoping someone on here had tried it. Thanks guys Jimbo

Since we,re on the subject of iwata i have a few ques? I,ve got a eclipse HP-BCS /.5mm (siphon feed) which is nice for painting larger areas but was wondering if a .35 nozzle;needle would fit it for a little finer work. Also was looking at the microns the other day at a local shop, they want 268.00 for them seems like a good deal what do you guys think. Snax you use a micron what model do you have (needle size).I was thinking of getting the .2mm but not sure if i have to go that fine a set up or not,although i,m trying to get more detail in my lures around the head,gills etc, any advice or opinions would be appreciated. Thanks Jimbo

You can buy thermostats that come with a capillary tube (a coiled tube filled with gas or mercury ?? drill a hole thru the box stick the end of the tube thru and mount the stat on the outside. They are used for saunas, walk in freezers etc.You just have to find one that has your temperture range. A small appliance parts supplier might have something. Jimbo

Mark went looking for minwax wood hardner today couldn,t find it. Is that what it,s actually called or maybe something else.Tryed home depo and a few other places lots of minwax products on the shelfs just no hardener. Might not be available here who knows, Jimbo

Yup that will come in handy, wish i,d had that a few times in the past. Thanks Pro

Was wondering if anyone has received the ps900 yet and if so how do you like it.

Jeep one thing you should think about before you start buying stuff is how serious you are about lure building. If your only going to build a few lures once in a blue moon get the rattle cans or a few bottles of model paint and some brushes. If your sure your going to get serious or i should say addicted to this craft then you should bite the bullet and go airbrush and waterbased paint. Why do i say this you ask i say this from my own experiences trial and error$$$. First i bought model paint and brushes but didn,t like the results so i bought a cheap airbrush,that improved my painting, that is until the solvents in the paint ruined the seals in the brush. Next it was hobby acrylics (you know the stuff, 12oz for a buck ) the stuff i bought would of plugged a 2" fire hose. What i,m getting at is i,ve got a bunch of stuff here that,s drying up and collecting dust because i tried to save a buck.Get it right the first time and you,ll end up saving money and building better lures alot sooner. Read the thread where NBI Marketing is offering TU members a 35% discount on brushes looks like a good deal to me,buy some decent airbrush paint i use Createx and DR PH Martins mostly, but the guys on here all have they,re own favorites.As far as a compressor goes well i don,t know what to say it can be a rather large expense unless you shop for a used one, i did read somewhere that you could use a airpig but don,t know how that would work out or howlong it would last between fill ups but would be cheaper than the cans of compressed air.Most importantly is start reading the threads on TU the guys here are the cream of the crop when it comes to lure building. Just my opinion about what i did wrong for myself thought i,d share that you. Take Care Jimbo

Local sign shop works for me they buy it in 4x8 5x10 etc sheets for sign faces if the signs only say 5x9 you got 4sq feet of waste thats a lot of lips.The last time i stopped in for some the guy was going to give me a piece 15"x48" for free ,i pulled out a $20 he wouldn,t take it so i threw a $5 bill on his bench and said i,d like to come back for more he smiled and said any time.According to him the only stuff better than what he gave me might be the stuff the nascar boys use for windshields don,t know about that but might be worth looking into.Another thing is the plastic is 1/8 thick which is ok for the baits i,m building he did have a thinner one but can,t remember exactly what thickness it was.You might want to know what it is you need before you go in bugging someone with a bunch a questions.You want polycarbonate not plexiglass etc it,s all on here. Another thing he told me was to sand the edges somewhat smooth this will help eliminate stress points?? where the plastic might fail. Jimbo

Woodie i agree don,t like using them (split rings) either but sometimes don,t have much of a choice, For example i,m using cotter pins not screw eyes and install them before i clear coat so i can,t hang the hooks on the bait until after that therefore split rings are needed. Also agree setting the drag properly very important however if someone is using one of my lures and he pulls it in the boat after losing a fish and sees something has failed do you think it would be blamed on drag setting or LURE BUILDER. Are the 3x binding because they are that much thicker and don,t slide around the eye of the hook? If so i wonder if the oval rings might not solve this problem, just a thought. Fishthanks i bought some Eagle Claw(thinking US made) rings not long ago and when i tried to but some on a lure the metal had no memory and stayed open after i removed the pliers.Checked the back of the package and they were not made in North America.Those rosco your talking about are they oval or 3x rings. Thanks Jim