jimbo

Carp you can make your own really easy ,just take two pieces of DRY hardwood the same size,clamp or screw them together then drill holes in the seam using the size bit you need depending on the size lure your using.I screw mine together that way they lineup the next time. Mark the depth you want by putting a piece of tape on the bit, drill the hole in the wood and pour in some lead.You can do this a few times before the wood burns to the point that you get flashing on your weights.With the same bit drill the lure using the tape as a guide for the depth.With a good bit the lead should fit perfectly now epoxy.This was posted by someone else some time ago can,t remember by who but i,m pretty sure it was on TU. Might of been before the GREAT CRASH.

Luremaking.com sells the 6/0 they,re not cheap 24.00 per 100.

10 outa 10 well done spike

I,ve often wondered why and how you guys did this with no fees. Yes i like TU the way it is, but nothing lasts forever, you got a yes vote from me, if i don,t like what happens over the next year i simply won,t renew(hope that doesn,t happen) Whatever happens i wish you all, the best of luck with this hugh step forward. JIMBO

Try KIJIJI ,it,s an online classified ads site it doesn,t cost anything not here at least.You can post LOOKING FOR or WANTED FREE check it out. Excuse my ignorance but if MD stands for maryland it,s available in your state, i checked. A month ago or so i posted LOOKING FOR LURE AND ROD BUILDING STUFF from that ad a got a lee pot ,10 do-it molds,boggs tackle maker 200lbs of lead a couple blanks ,tons of spinner bait stuff etc etc. It was all within a 20 min drive from my home as well. Getting someones old microwave should be a snap jimbo

I tried it a few weeks ago and won,t do it again to hard to control the speed and i couldn,t stop it unless i pulled the battery . The first one went without to many problems but the second one, well lets just say i,m still picking epoxy out of my eyebrows ,gotta watch those speed wobbles Marks right doing a few shouldn,t hurt the drill but it,s not a long term solution.A corded drill would work better imho the kind with a variable speed knob that you turn up or down,usually found on the trigger plus you could stop /start it simply by unplugging it (yard sale 5-10 bucks) Rotisserie motor is another option not a bad speed and pretty cheap, also i understand that some people even use them to cook food on the bbq {did a search and couldn,t find anything in the threads to confirm this } Onething i would suggest is try a dry lure and treat it as if it had epoxy on it and play with the cordless see if it works for you. Good luck and let us know how it works Jimbo

St Thomas, Ont

Go to :-:-: Lure Making :-:-: The Official LureMaking.com Website | Tackle Components | Lure Components | Lure Making Information | Lure Making Supplies they sell guite a few different sizes (lengths) both open and closed eyes. Also do a search in the forums should be quite abit of info on sizes for different baits depending on type of wood,thickness,angle ,on and on it goes lol. Some of the guys will even secure the screws with epoxy. Hope this helps Jimbo

First i,d like to thank everyone for they,re input. My fenwick fs 908-2 would appear to be fs=fiberglass spinning, 90inches, 8 heavy , 2piece. However it is telescoping so the flipping stick thing is still an issue in the back of my mind. When i decide to build it what would stop me from going spinning casting or flipping. I should point out i,ve never used a flippin stick and wouldn,t no it if i had one in my hand.Plan on doing some research on the topic. Thanks Jim

Thanks for the response guys, Dude i think you nailed it, i must of spent 2hrs last night checking other sites to find what those numbers meant, without any luck i might add. The FS really had me stumped kept thinking FIBERGLASS SALT,bit of a brain fart i guess. Thanks again Jim

The printing is on the long section about six inches from the butt and yes the short section slides over and down the blank.The tip measures 0.0135"and the butt is 0.900 on the short section.When the pieces are joined the decal is 2" above the joint. When joined there is no play or wobble in it .there,s 3" inside the base is this enough to use as an extension that i could epoxy and start wrapping.It would be my first build so if it,s already been butchered i can,t really do any more damage ,just a thought. If the blank was actually designed this way i would hold off and build it later when i,ve gained some experience and build it the way it was meant to be done. Hope this makes sense to someone out there i just read it and well i,m a little dizzy,lol Thanks Jim Thanks Jim

Hi Guys ,bought some tackle making stuff off a guy on the weekend and got a old fiberglass fenwick blank with it. The blank is brown and has FS 908-2 it comes in two pieces one measures70" the other measures22" and slides down the longer section to extend the base.The OAL is 89"when joined,the colors of the two pieces match. This thing is really quite stiff,every time i pick it up i picture a 50+ musky on the end of it. My first question does anyone know what the code means (fs 908-2) and second do you think this is a hacksaw job having two pieces like this. Thanks Jim

I,m pretty sure it,s cork ,has a woody texture but no weight to it and is pretty firm when cutting. If it,s some kind of foam and it could well be someone went to alot of trouble to color it. The most experience i,ve had with cork and tools involved a screw driver and a bottle Should be able to get 4 pieces 1 1/2 dia by 3 1/2 long out of this one. I,ll try a hole saw on it and see what happens. I just thought if it was cork it would save glueing a bunch of 1/4 pieces together and since i only bought the one i,d go back and buy them out at 1.99 apiece ya just can,t lose. Thanks Jim

I bought this at a surplus store for 2.00 do you guys think it would work for grips. I didn,t think you could get cork this thick,maybe its ground up and glued together what do you think. jim

Hope this works

Came in the mail today thought you guys might enjoy the pic.It says the decoys were done by Don Preston. Sorry about the pic will post another as soon as i figure out what size will work

Try sign shops they discard small pieces all the time just make sure it,s lexan(polycarbonate) and not plexiglass as plexiglass will break much easier.They,ll have different thicknesses as well depending on the size of the sign.

[the virtual aquarium of virginia tech] spell check, whats that??!!

Try [the virtual acquarium of virginia tech] the photos are great and a hugh selection

I,ve been using lacquer thinner to melt plastic for 4 or 5 years now it works much better [ quicker] than acetone.The plastic cups work well but have used different items as well such as seed starting trays the really flimsy ones that have maybe two dozen pots all attached .The best thing to do is put a small piece in a oz of lacquer if it hasn,t broke down in a few minutes look for something else to use. Don,t but to much plastic in all at once or you,ll be stirring till the cows come home. Try to put plastic that,s the same size thickness in if you put different sizes in the same batch they dissolve at different rates and just add to the agony of stirring and stirring and stirring. Don,t know about the virgin thinner never seen it here. Hope this helps

Bruce i just got off the phone with dad fessed up to what i was trying to do and passed on the info you gave me.I know nova as in nova lures is pretty close to him so i,m going to contact him and see if he knows anyone in the area that can help. Thanks again for the info will let you know how it turns out. Jim

I was worried about that, one problem is he,s 1300 miles east of here,and mom says he practically sleeps with the darn thing. Isuppose i could replace the whole thing with a similar one make model etc. Would the feel between two rods be that much different guess only the owner would know for sure. Thanks for the reply bruce always enjoy your threads posts etc and admire the effort you put in to tu. Jim

Hi guys I was talking to my dad last night and he was telling me how he lost two sections to his fly rod lastyear It was a retirement gift he received in 1992-3 i believe and is quite fond of it. It,s a GL3,FR1086-4 9foot #6 line, flat black finish.He lost the tip and second section, is it possible to replace these or could i have them made what would my options be as i would like to surprise him with it.Maybe one of you guys know someone i could e-mail to get what i want. Sorry it,s not exactly rod building but pretty close let me know if you can help Thanks Jim

Jump on this if i,m messing up, but this is what i,ve been doing. I use the cups usually the solid white throw away beer cups and lacquer thinner. it,s mixed a little thicker than milk more like enamel paint. After no more than three coats i have a solid white finish thats ready for paint. in the past i used testers with no problems except using it in the airbrush.The white cups seemed to give me a solid sealed base to do my painting on.I,ve also used black,red and brown plastic with the same results.If you see any flaws in this method let me know would save alot of tears later on.

I,ve had a hard time finding stuff here as well [ontario] especially devcon 2. Finally found createx paint at michaels crafts store (didn,t know we had them in canada until a few weeks ago) it costs quite abit more than in the states i paid 5.99/2oz. luremaking.com sells a 2part epoxy for clear coating they,re own brand i think and macphersoncrafts.com sells envirotex/polymer epoxy. All these are in ontario so that might not help but if they are here chances are you can find them in quebec as well or at least have them shipped from here. Good Luck