tinman
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Posts posted by tinman
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BEZYB's method is exactly how I do mine. And it's not hit & miss either. I strive to standardize everything as much as possible. I've got a few standard designs that I've got the way I want them so I use the same type of wood, shape and weigh them. Then determine how deep to drill the holes. Pour the lead. Test them for buoyancy & balance in my utility sink. Drill & fine tune. I only live about 1/4 mile from a lake, so if there's open water I can even cast 'em out a few times if I feel the need
. My gliders are the easiest, because some are floaters, some sinkers & some neutral. So if I mis-calculate, I just recategorize it!
Of course if I'm playing around with a proto. then I'll do like rofish, but I try to keep track of how much I weighted them for future reference.
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I always pour hot lead into mine, but I just use standard drill bits. Never had one come out loose. In fact I just poured seven hardwood gliders today (14 holes) & every one was absolutely tight. I'd definitely try scoring the hole or widening out the bottom abit with the dremel on the next ones. Shouldn't take much to physically hold it in place.
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Here's the Wordens (Yakima) site. Also has a dealer locator.
http://www.yakimabait.com/catalog/html/Spin-N-Glo-p-1-c-269.html
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Templates are another option. Simple cardboard cutouts for some details. Clear plastic like stencil material from a craft store when you need to see your location for others.
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Two of my favorite "production" lures with a search action are the Hot-n-Tot & the Willy's Worm (WW's are no longer made, unfortunately, but I've got a couple dozen:) ) . Both similar baits with that on the edge of out of control action. They don't look like anything natural from this world, but they'll catch just about any game fish going. Troll 'em out in Lake Erie & Saginaw Bay for 'eye's. Plugin' the rivers for steelies, browns & salmon. Great triggering action. Got that short wide body & big lip. I made up a couple bigger jointed versions for pike/musky but I'm still bending/grinding/adjusting the lips to get what I want. Gettin' close, though.
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Got the same 1/4 thru 5/8 oz Do-it mold. Make some from lead & some tin to vary weights. Made some big prototypes out of some #7 .040 musky willow blades a couple days ago & epoxied a 1 oz rubber core sinker (minus rubber) to the belly. They look like an overgrown Reef Runner Cicada. Haven't tried 'em yet though.
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Legitimate, thought provoking question & very good responses. But to me it's like asking an artist why he doesn't just use paint by numbers. IMHO there's no shortcuts, but everybody has their own means to reach an end, I guess.
Great thred! -
Something like a No Box Skinny Boy maybe? Advertised to 12mph I believe. Not sure on the depth (6feet?) but I guess thats relative to line out (like prop wash trolling).
Rattle trap-like lures are very speed tolerant. I've got two 5" proto's, similar to a floating trap (crappie) I just finished, but haven't really tested trolling yet & a couple 7 inchers roughed out. Hope to use 'em casting & speed trolling.
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Wow, what a great source of visual info. Thanks man....
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I have a jointed cedar plug with a similar lip angle on. It was my first hardbait attempt. It's an unweighted trolling type. Completely different desing than yours. I ended up shortening the lip & rounding off the corners. The wide square lips seem to give that wide side to side wobble. Rounding it seems to give them more roll. Maybe someone else will have some other suggestions before you get that radical with it, though.
Lately I've been using aluminum lips on my musky lures. My Dad used to (many years ago) work in a sign shop, so I've got a life time supply. Super durable, And also, somewhat adjustable. Like that kinda subtle flash, too.
Great looking finish on yours. Very nice!
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A tiny piece of nightcrawler on the rear treble is our favorite. Adds scent but not big enough to affect the action of the lure.
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I'm not an expert by any means, but I've done afew gliders. The ones that I like the best that get that nice side to side action & belly roll/flash have a wider width to depth ratio. Especially when you get into the longer lengths. You didn't really give the dimentions, just length, but if the lure is too narrow vs body depth is just naturally going to be harder to get a side to side motion to. I've got some dive & rise lures that I've used 3/4 inch wide stock on & like, but for actual gliders & some countdowns I've made, I like to use 1'' to 1 1/4" + wide stock. Plus like mentioned adjust the weighting of the ends to get either a floater, neutral, slow sinker.... whatever. Wood you use & weight are factors, too, no doubt.
Just something else to consider in your design.
I've got some Mahogany glders I'm working on now. I like the weight & durability of those, but don't really like the open grain. Just gotta seal 'em up well. Good luck.
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Great looking spinners. Those double blades are all the rage in the musky world. Gonna have to make some up myself for the opener. Never tried any glow skirts (for Musky, just salmon). Have you tried them yet?
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Did a little research on alternatves to lead, too. Like many here with all the lead bans & such. Tungsten had it's obvious draw backs for the small time operation or home builder. If you do a search on E-Bay there's some sources for tungsten pellets & epoxy mixes that might be an alternatve. I just never followed up on it because the other alternatves work well for me.
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Very cool. I've been doing my sons Pine Wood Derby car lately, too. Getting ready to paint it. Thanks for the ideas. We're going to attempt a red metal flake with some foil details. Lots of fun.
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Never made any brass swedish pimple types, so I can't help ya there. Saw a TV tour of the Bay DeNoc plant & they demonstrated how they were stamped from brass & polished. Pretty cool. They are a great jigging spoon. The curved body & keel on the bottom give them a great flutter on the drop.
I've made some Hopkins spoon types out of stainless steel before that work really well. Stole a couple butter knives out of the silverware drawer, cut the handle to lengths & ground to the shape I wanted. Similar in weight to brass I believe.
On a side note another spoon with a similar shape & action to a pimple is a Rattle Snakie Spoon. It's a lead spoon with a good flutter. Just a tad bit faster fall. Not always a bad thing.
Also I've got a jigging spoon mold from Do-It I really like. It's a little wider & has the keel on the bottom, too. Some I've poured with lead & some with tin to lighten some up for a slower fall. 2/3 the weight of lead. Might be another option for ya.
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Personally, I thru-wire basswood, balsa & cedar. But I only make Musky wood lures, so I try to build for strength. If in doubt, drill it out.
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Sorry got thinking, lead is listed at 621.43
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According to Wikipedia bismuth's melting point is 520.7
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My first post, so here goes. Tin works really well in molds. It's abit lighter than lead, 25-30% or so. I recently poured some jigging spoons with tin. Worked great. Also have used it in the past for some bladebaits. Same results. It is expensive compared to lead, so I don't use it all the time. Just when I'm looking to lighten up some lures. I used plummers solder (Dutch Boy)for a source in mine. It was $10.00 for a 1# pound coil a week ago.
Bismuth is used as a substitute for lead in shot gun pellets, also. About the same price as tin & weighs almost the same as lead. Haven't tried it yet, though. A little harder to obtain & I still use lead some, anyways. Good luck!
Screw Eyes & Finish
in Hard Baits
Posted
I just went to Welders Supply & got some stainless steel rod today for some hook hangers. I already had some 1/16th inch (.045 I believe) which works pretty well for smaller lures. But needed some heavier stuff for some Musky gliders I've been working on. Ran short on eye screws so picked up some 3/32 ss rod. Thats about as heavy as I'd want to go, pretty tough to work, but manageable (barely).
I seal 'em with thinned Devcon, about 50/50 & Acetone. Then I use laquer primer sand & paint (laquer). Brush on the top coat with straight Devcon & a 1" foam brush. If there's a blemish or 2 I'll light sand the bad spot & wipe it with denatured alcohol & hit it again with Devcon.