pikeman
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seems I found some answers here: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/17733-making-swimbaits-from-resinhelp/
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Hi Dave , nice to see you are still around I will do a prototype soon and will try to place it in a pipe or something like that, than use the vacuum, second alternatives are use a vibrant table to place the mold on, or pre-heat the mold to about 140 F (60C) just as a test. @sallystrothers If the moisture is the problem than there is no cure for that just to either buy another box or change the urethane... found one pretty cheap in my town but the problem is it has a high density , about 62 lb/ft3 while in comparison, Basswood is between 20-37, and I don't know how much microballoons supports, although I want to use it for swimbaits
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doing some research I run intro aluminite, yet I was unable to find out its density from thir website or maybe I'm missing something from the tehnical buletin? A few days ago while I was searching I saw a post from vodkaman saying that feather lite has microballoons in it , but still I want to find out the density of aluminite, can someone help?
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Hi EdL, For the mold I've used RTV silicone both one part mold (as in the "pipe" example from the tutorials) or two parts mold, No release agent as I've seen that you don't need it for foam or urethane casting if you use silicon, probably after a while when the silicon gets old and the oily surface disappears you will need a release agent. Anyway haven't seen urethane remaining in the mold
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Hi all, In the past I tried some of this stuff (feather lite) yet the results were pretty good I hade some issues with the bubbles on the surface, I was expecting a clear result but it seems there is a reaction between the components because the mixture expands a little bit (by far less than foam) which I think involves some heat resulting in air traped bubbles (don't know if this happens inside the body as well) So for obtaining a shiny surface I am considering the following things: - the room temperature, I don't remember if it was the one indicated in the tehnical buletin - pressure casting - can someone help me on this...how it is done? - vibrating table - I think maybe putting the mold on such a table may cause the bubbles to rise Any other ideas might help, please feel free to share them P.S. vodkaman hope you are still around
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Hi all, I want to play a little bit with an old spinning reel which has the paint cracked. It is made of aluminium so I am thinking of geting the paint off using acetone and a little bit of sanding. Now my problem is what kind of paint to use. I own an Iwata Eclipse and I was thinking to use the Automotive series from Createx but yet I don't know what kind of clear coat to apply. Any ideas on the subject? Some examples or stores / what should I look for - would be usefull Thanks
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yes , this should be easy, basically the lures are not so huge and I use 3 eyes for each, so you can start with 3 nails on 3 different metal boards interconnected with screws , a longer lure will require unscrewing the front and back eye-nails boards from the middle (of course the front will be closer to the middle board than the back) but, and there is a but , you still have to manually wrap around the wire , this leading space for imperfections
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Hi, I am a little bit laizy for not using the search option but I have 1 question Is there on the market an universal "thru wire former"? The main idea is that I want it to be configured to different dimensions for different lure types. I can do the nails on wood method but this implies using such a board for each lure independently. I want to use the thru wire configurations in two part molds for pouring urethane. Thanks, Marius
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7" pike, 2.5oz, linden wood, rolling action as it sinks Caught this pike in the house with a Logitech Mouse,carefully checked with the magnifying glass. This fish was not landed as it will have a tail and a dorsal fin. It will be released in 2 protective layers -
P.I.M.P. my perch -
I am interested in this particular subject as I was wondering about this: If you create a deflective bait as a flat sided lure with good rolling to have a "sexy" way for showing its sides without having to hit the rocks or logs for this wouldn't be better? sorry for highjacking the thread about slow vs fast rising lures yet, I like some lures to slow/fast sink with vertical movement , as I cast them near topwater structures and let them sink for the predators beneath them to strike. P.S. as being sinking they have a pretty high amount of ballast so I gently stop the wire before the lure hits the water for a better presentation
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Hi Rofish, glad to see that you are still around here. Actually I had troubles with devcon creating waves on flat sided lures that required a second layer for evenly curing. I didn't used a turner yet so I thought it would be usefull to build one to see the difference. As you stated the centrifugal acceleration will have a greater impact on lures situated further from the shaft axis as a calculation between the radius of the wheel and the speed of the motor. But this wil not be a great concern over a drying wheel due to a rather small speed 1.5 - 6 rpm. The shaft is indeed split in two and it is not a precise drawing because I intend to use two shafts. One like that in the picture for placing a long heavy lure directly on it. And another one going thru both wheels for smaller lures. Thanks for all the answers, Pike
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Thanks Ben, I should have put the problem in another way: Is there a difference between back-to-belly and front-to-tail turn, in leveling? By this I mean for the edges of the lure
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Sorry because I don't have too much time to look thru the archives. I have this crazy idea of an extensible drying wheel, and I had a recent discussion with a friend in which he said to me that he thinks it is better to place the lures in such way as when they are spinning the epoxy resin to level equaly from the tail to the front of the lure instead of back-to-belly. So...which way is better? Vman .... help
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@FF I've tried to preserve a double 2ton syringe , managed to clean it pretty good but this move ruined all my work as after I filled them up somehow the substance managed to find a way out even with the cap on. So I thought lets place them upside-down, yet a bigger mistake, as it seems the trigger was not perfectly attached to the recipient and I've lost a good amount over there too. Even so if the cap was to be perfectly attached to the recipient I could have run into troubles as I wouldn't have known about the trigger not having a good bond with the recipient and the air entering on this door changing the 2ton properties. It is not fun doing the job twice but you can buy normal syringes with gradations on them and pour the devcon separatly or find a way to bond them together.
