DUCBOS

Yes Just make sure you finish it with a real good clear coat. Either Devcon D2T 30 minute Eposy or a couple of coats of Dick Nites clear

Bob P Thanks It appears from the info on the net that oxygen cured talks considerably longer to cure. I guess that is why the storage issues are better. It also appears that the DN2 is about as or maybe more durable thatn DN1. We won't know about discoloration for some time. Water durability will also be solvedwith time. Ease of use seems good. It seems that what is needed now is to use it. Can DN make enough of it to sell?

It sounds and looks like your .035 wire does not have both ends anchored in the lead. Are you depending on the strength of the bend in that wire to hold a fish? I fear it would streighten out.

Hard to get a good Picture with my camera Here are some power painted lead worm weights with the inserts I described DUCBOS

Check out this thread Actually you can use a regular air brush with this stuff, take a look at the following thread http://www.tackleund...g-powder-paint/ Don't know why it would not work with an airbrush. See threads on this page below about clear coating and power painting DUCBOS

I was just given this thread tonight I think it is my solution for detail on jais and spoons http://www.tackleund...g-powder-paint/ Pay attention to airbrushextreme I placed an order tonight I'm going touse an airbrish fro detail DUCBOS

I use srink wrap tubing from Home Depot. get the smallest size 1/8" I think. heat it over a candle while stretching it out. when you get the right size cut it and insert it. then heat each end to buldge it out so it will stay. easy, cheap way to protect your line from tungston or any metal weight. DUCBOS

pirkfan SOUNDS GREAT I want to try it. Do ou heat the metal before painting as usual? DUCBOS

Started with re-smokng molds a started with a new attitude today. I actually poured a little slower and lowered the pot to 8 from 10 Took all advise that I wasn't already doing. I loaded hooks and used my heat gun and REALLY heated mold and hooks. NO WAY TO TOUCH THE MOLD! I did OK with the larger one's and a Arkie jig mold. Still having trouble with smallest shakie heads. Just can't get it into the lower part of the mold. Thanks for the help. Guess I'll work harder with the small one's. Has anyone ever oiled the small hooks before pouring? Thanks again DUCBOS

A Lee pot turned all the way up 4# pot with 2 1/2 # lead Smoked all cavities and the pour holes Guess it may be like askig how to get to Carnegie Hall. Practice, prectice, practice. Plan to practice at least 6 hours today Thanks to All for your help This site is the greatest

You can't use a regular airbrush, except for liquid paints and hen clear coating If youe use a regular air brushand paints they are available everywhere. Search the Hard Baits section for tons of info. Lure Parts has a powder paint air brush but you need an air compressor. If you have a powder paint system or fluid bed or even just brushing on the powder paint with a small brush check out this web site and the colors and effects they have http://fishingskirts.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=94 They are a little expensive, but some good info from below on tis site recommends ColumbiaCoatings.com

Using DO IT Football and Shaky Head to start with. Lead is as hot as the electric pot wll get it. turmed all the way up. Ladle is in pot and mold warmed on top of pot for 5 minutes. Then I skim and pour as fas as I can with small stream of lead. Maybe I'm not pouring as fast as I think I am, but it runs in pretty fast and I try to keep it in the center of the pouring hole.

I hate to start a thread with a rookie problem, but man can I use soem help! Been doing hard baits for several years. Just starting today to try to pour some jigs. I have read everything I can find on this site, on other sites, in the Do IT package insert and their web pages. I expected a learning curve, but man I can not get a single one right. I cannot get the lead to pour deep enough for the barbs to cast on the jigs. Using 100% soft lead, flux often with candle wax, clean the dross, wiped the molds with WD 40 then smoked the molds with a lighter, heated the mold well before pouring, filed a notch in the ladel so I can pour down the hole quickly with a small stream of lead, have the lead as hot as it will get in the pot, using correct hooks, added several pieces of mailing lable paper to the new mold to try to let the air escape.... Don't think I forgot anything. Some times it doesn't pour righr even without hooks in the mold, but never does it get deep enough with the hookd in. just don't know what to do short of getting out the dremmel and enlarging the hook holes. Maybe I should offer a couple of new smoked molds for sale cheap, but I sure would appreciate any advice. Thanks DUCBOS

I'm a confused simple man. Is this new DN2 moisture cured like the old? Is it heat cured, or oxygen or some othe methhod of curing? I need to start there to figure out where to go with it.

We've got the best man for the testing. Can't wait for the results Thanks for the work.

Rookie - For some reason I cannot make enough of these here in Alabama. It's called "13". Hope to change it to "14" in January

I live in Alabama. Not near as cold as you, but have always use a heat lamp. Sometimes I use it over my turner for D2T. Don't help with DN or moistured cure urathanes. I usually jut hang the baits after I turn them for about 1 hour, with the heat lamp over them and a shiny cookie tray below. Makes a great heater and drys the D2t well and faster. I use a cheap light from Home Depot. Works great.

I like epoxy for many crankbaits, Do you turn it to level it out on a wheel or just turn it a few times?

someone on the site said that using a butane lighter and putting a thin lay of carbon on the mold would work. Has anyone else tried this?

I am getting into pouring for this very reason as well as stronger hooks with shakey heads. I called Lure Parts and the guy there was good enough to try several hooks in different molds for me while I held on the phone. Good folks there. I am going to start with the Arkie double collar (because it holds rattle and skirt well) and a new hook (Mustad wide gap below) $1.80 SKU: 4808 Qty: 10 per pack Quantity Discount Available Qty Discount 10 - 99 10.00% 100+ 20.00% Qty: Size: 3/0 4/0 (Add $0.50) 5/0 (Add $0.70) 6/0 (Add $0.90) (FREE SHIPPING on orders over $150.00 - Offer valid for Ground Shipping, Continental USA only) [ Extra strong, flat eye, extra wide gap 45 degree hooks for your flipping jigs! Chemically sharpened UltraPoint black nickel finish. 10 hooks per pack

Great information on the study Matt. All things considered I have been happy with it. I have baits that are 14-15 months out and do not see any darkening or yellowing. they are really tough when cured. Rookie says that it takes longer to cure than DN, but I think that depends on the humidity, since it is moisture not heat cured. I never read anything about not using it outdoors, Good thing I didn't I guess.

Rookie Could not PM you so here I never had a problem curing to a hard finish in about 2 days. I have fished some small ones in 24 hours. I do however live in Alabama where the prevailing humidity is always about 150%, so that probably explains it. It is good stuff and has replaced DN for me. DUCBOS

rookie I never tried the spray. The liquid is just like DN in every respect. I have found it a great replacement to DN I also still use D2T depending on the application.

Sure makes you want to run right out and smoke some Meth don't it.

Check back with PepBoys and ask if it is behind the counter. My Auto Zone store said they had to hide it because dope makers (Meth) were using it and they had to screen who got it.