DUCBOS

They must be new. Haven't seen them on his site. It was one of the places I've looked. I've used some of his stuff before with good results. DUCBOS

Shane, Mark Those tails are real soft and flexible. More like rubber than plastic. The fins are definately poured plastic. If you can find a bette way to paint them please let me know as well.

It swims very well but the hooks keep it from having a slight roll at faster speeds. It has some heavy weights/rattles or knockers in it, too. Mark - it comes with beige/brown rubber talis. The fins are hard plastic. I had to experiment with the tails. I painted them, but the paint would not dry. Dick Nites on the rubber will not dry or cure. So I painted them and then sprayed that superclear stuff that you can get where ever you get Createx paints and that worked well. It comes with spare tails, because I expect them to get beat up and need to be replaced. It has a hollow cut out in the tail and a hinge knob on the bait. I glued my first ones to the body, but I'm looking at driving a small wire throught the tail section and throught the little knob on the bait that is like a little hinge to see what it does to the action. DUCBOS

I wanted to paint a shad like, big jointed bait, but have not been able to find an unpainted one for sale. I cannot do the woodworking many of you guys do so well. I found these unpainted 81/2" trout bodys here from the ads section and dresssed the trout like a shad. Calling it a TRAD. The guy with the web site is real helpful and he has 2 different weight baits for sale at a pretty reasonable price, one slow sinker and one fast sinker. Give them a try if you're interested in big jointed swim baits. www.hotcustomlures.com We don't have any trout down her in dixie, but I have seen plenty 8' to 10' shad in the mouths of big fish often. I hope to get on the lake and see if it will catch or scare these bass here on Logan Martin this week. Plan to swim them over deep structure and see what happens. DUCBOS

Filling the small confined space with al lot of CO2 displaces the air, CO2 comes out of and into solution about 100 X faster than air because of the Nitrogen in the air. It just totally eliminates the bubble issue, and allows me to mix it pretty vigorusly, Any boubles come out of the D2T before I can get the brush to start applying it. It does help to have the small space for that reason rather than a flat open space like the can bottom.

I got my mix from the tutorial here on TU - 95/5/5 I use a gallon of distilled water 3 oz of alcohol and 5 drops of dish soap. It is also what I use for cleaning the airbrush. The alcohol keeps the paint from drying fast in the brush and the soap makes slick and it easy to clean Yse an old mustard dispenser for sqquirting through the brush. I'm alsways looking for the easy way out.

Using a flat surface for mixing can provide the opportunity for some of one of the parts of the D2T to not be mixed at the same proportion. I use plastic disposable ice trays for mixing D2T for this very reason. they contain all the D2T in a confined space and one that is shallower at the bottom than at the top. It also allows me to exhale my breath (CO2) into the confined space so any bubbles are CO2 and comes out of the mix very quickly. Ice trays are 3/$1 and each have about 14 mixing spaces. The best way to fix the bad spots is to coat it again with D2T.

Did a bunch this past winter. All Createx paint. Some one sided Some all over Some multi colored ans shaded. This is the only thing I use Dick Nites for, and you have to cover the whole bait. I think it may bond through the paint, but it works well. DN is a pain, but I finally got some Bloxygen and that helps a lot to stop the waste.

Sorry I forgot to add this picture of the wheel

Thanks to everyone for the comments and help! The speed of the wheel DOES matter as I have found out. I was drying with a 9 RPM motor one bait at a time and turning on its own axis from lead hook eye through the end hook eye. Each bait was truly turning at 9 RPM. It was working well, but I wanted to be able to do more than one at a time. I bought one of the motors someone told us about on this site on sale. It turns at 2 RPM. I made a wheel that can handle 6 baits and each are 7 inches from the center axis and rotating around the it. The results of this speed and distance was that each bait actually turned at 1.3 RPM around the center axis. ALL my baits came out lumpy and uneven with this set up. I took the 9 RPM motor and put it on my new wheel. Now each bait goes around the center axis 7.6 times per minute. This has now fixed the lumpy D2T issue. All baits are smooth again. My conclusion is that you can turn baits too slowly and thereby NOT overcome the effects of gravity on the relatively heavy D2T. After all that is the purpose of the drying wheel. I would think from my experience that someone would not want to turn a bait slower than 5 or 6 RPM to be confident in the ability of the wheel to help with the leveling of the clear coat. I don't want to repeat the experiment to find out what is too fast to turn a bait. 60 RPM seems very fast to me, and my wife would kill me if she came into the garage one day and there was glue slung all over her car. Thanks for the help and discussion. I love this site.

I have a question I can't find an answer for anywhere. Maybe some of the physics experts like Vodkaman can help. Does the speed of the drying wheel make any difference in the outcome of the finished clear coat? I have used a small motor that turns at 6 RPM for about 2 years with great results. It only does one bait at a time and it turns on the axis of the bait. I always got a smooth even finish. I recently made a turner with a 2 RPM motor that allows me to do up to 8 baits at a time. They turn on the axis of the center dowel and the baits rotate areoun it. I am now getting lumpy results and sometimes even a large clump in one place, and it is not an even finish all over the bait. All of it is with D2T clear coat.

Net Man I do baits one at a time. I buy cheap plastic ice cube trays from the dollar store. I can use one cube per mix, then throw it away after I've used them all. It allows me to exhale CO2 from my breath into the cube which is smaller at the bottom than the top. Then mix it thourghly with a amall split ice cream stick. Continue exhalling CO2 into the cube, because it will make any bubbles be CO2 and they will come out of solution much eaiser than air with nitrogen in it. You can then comfortably mix it well and it is contained in a small space. Mix it well then follow closely the directions on this site for applying and it will work well.

Don't remove the old paint. Just use powder paint over the old paint. I just re-did 3 this week end.

Thanks for the quick answer. Have you tried Bloxygen? I want to use some DN, but refuse to continue wasting it because of air. I've tried unsucccessfully to buy some from the company, but want to continue to try to find some. I've seen everyone's work arounds, but they aer not satisfactor for me.

For water based paints, I made mine in about 3 hours and it cost less than $20 using scrap materials around. It has an exaust fan that blows into a 10# bag of charcoal through a dryer conduit. (behind the cardboard piece) Cost me about $8-$10 and handles light volatile things like acetone, laquer thinner or Dick Nites, and D2T fumes. Has a heat lamp to aid in drying and D2T application and plenty of dowel rods with paper clips to hang baits. Doing it is the fun of it. Customizing it for yourself - priceless.

Don't want another thread so I'll ask it here if it's OK. How does heat effect DN? Does it help it cure or not? I've looked through every thread in the search engine, but can not find the specific answer.

Three ways I use it a lot. 1) Mixed with the D2T and uniformally all over the bait. 2) sprinkled over a separate area, like just the back 3) after puting D2T on the lure mix the glitter with a small amount of the D2T left over and use on just one small area. The glitter moves in toward the bait as you turn it to dry, no thinning, no lumps.

Dean I would sure like to try some Bloxygen. I will not open another can of Dick Nites until I have some remedy for loosing so much of it to the air. I've has a terrible time trying to get it. My first order was cancelled after about 2 months and after I had paid via Paypal, but I ordered again in December, but still haven't received it. Do they not like to sell in small quantities? What has your experience been in getting it? Is there another supply source?

Thanks guys, I'm going to try it. Sounds great. Not worried about pretty pictures, just attractive baits.

I use the spring clamps fro Harbor Freight al lot. Very cheap Very secure. the multi-hands thing shown on the previous page it there also. A box of paper clips bent to any angle and the spring clips work best for me.