Dink Master

https://www.m-fmanufacturing.com/mf-online-shop/Liquid-Color-p467975669 OR https://shoplureworks.com/collections/pigments-and-dyes/products/dsp191

Read this other thread. re-tempering hook eyes

Bump

I live in warm sunny SoCal, but I still heat the hook and collar area on 90% of the jigs I pour. Air trapped in molds will only give you a minute incomplete fill. If you are heating your hardware and still getting bad pours it's a lead flow problem. Clean your spout. Wear gloves and ream out the spout with a piece of wire. (spinnerbait wire form) Be careful! Also placing the lead nozzle all the way down into the pour hole can prevent air escaping from the top. Gravity is your friend. I like the nozzle about 1/4" above the mold. Everyone has there own way of doing things. So do it anyway you want, I am just trying to help. Good Luck.

A Ladle (Apdriver) and more Heat. I prefer to make my Bladed Jigs with the Poison Swingtail Mold and a home made Wire Form. You do have to tie a Bait Keeper using this mold, but it has one less collar that needs to fill. Also it has no weed guard hole, so the top looks a lot better. Please check out my posts(2) and pictures on this thread. (click below)

Countbass store AliExpress

Clean Lead Strong Fast Lead Flow Frankford Arsenal Drop Out Perfect Pour - Right Down The Middle Venting All of the above help, but the mold was not designed to have 2 hook eyes blocking the lead flow to the collar area. Heat is your friend.

The main problem is the cool hardware blocking and solidifying the lead too quickly. Lay hook and figure 8 link in mold. Heat hook, figure 8 link and collar area with a propane torch. (quick blast) Close mold, pour jig. Your percentages are going to be a lot higher after heating your hardware. Give it a try. Good luck.

Watch this - and this -

I use the tool to make Hairy Dice

Decoy Rubber Threader https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Decoy_Rubber_Threader/descpage-RUBDS.html Works great.

Smelly Jelly - Liquid or Jell

Google - solid welded rings for fishing lures. If you want to put a hook on a jig like your picture, you need jump rings. Jump rings need to be silver soldered to closed the gap. Any good saltwater Tackle Shop should have them.

Crymdawg -"Any one know where I can get a tool like the photo that Dink Master posted." Amazon - Booms Fishing CP2 Fishing Crimping Tool for Single-Barrel Sleeves

Booms Fishing CP2 Fishing Crimping Tool for Single-Barrel Sleeves - Amazon American Fishing Wire Single Barrel Crimp Sleeves - Amazon size #2 I.D. - .047 in

320* is good. I live in Southern California, I always warm up my Injector & Blending Block before shooting. The Blending Block needs to be hot. Also lube the Injector/O-rings with worm oil or Pam spray.

Please post a picture of your mold and one of the good worms. Hand poured or injection mold? Not sure why you are using a griddle?

Thanks

Cool. Thank for the help. I am in California also. I just ran out of my medium plastic, need to order more!

Does anyone know what is going on with there web store? For weeks now this is all I get. The store is closed for maintenance

cold cracking

I used Connector Links for years. Inconsistent quality, too soft and have a larger diameter/gauge wire then the Do-it Poison Tail Swing Wire Forms. The Poison Tail Swing Wire Forms are stronger and have a smaller diameter. Smaller wire equals better/freer blade movement. Open eyed Hooks have a larger diameter then the Connector Links. The choice is yours. The Poison Tail Swing Wire Forms are a close match to the Jack Hammer wire form.

Make your own wire forms, that are way better then the open hook eye method. Get some Do-it Poison Tail Swing Wire Forms (STW155) and don't look back. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Do-it_Poison_Tail_Swing_Wire_Form_100pk/descpage-DIOTSW.html Use the wire forms with your favorite flipping or spinnerbait hook.

Amazon https://www.amazon.com/s?k=screw+lock+fishing&crid=3ESP2GCPWHYMF&sprefix=screw+lock+%2Caps%2C169&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_8_11