Vodkaman

Work shops are NEVER big enough. The spare room in my new abode is only 9' x 7', so I am going to design a rotating table to mount my major tools; bandsaw, belt sander, drill press and space for one other. My general work bench will be small and on wheels, so that I can move it around. Lots of shelves is the answer. Dave

I too use a Bondo type product. It is everything Mark said. Dave

Good work Gino and happy that you like my Archimedes technique. Clearly you have a good engineering mind and I too look forward to reading more. DAve

Salt water obviously does have a significant effect on the required ballasting of a lure. The methods that I use for ballasting are proven and require no float testing other than a cup of water for doing the Archimedes Dunk Test, as described in the link in post No2. For sea water, it is just a matter of introducing the density or specific gravity of sea water, which can be looked up on the web. Note - if you work with Archimedes, you really need to work in metric units to simplify the numbers. For example; 1cm cube of water weighs 1 gram and has a density of 1 g/cm3, what could be simpler. Try the same using inches and ounces and you will get the message. DAve

The only difference is the density of the materials used. Most probably, your cast body is denser (heavier) than the original PVC body. This means that the lure will require less ballast weight to achieve the same float. Reducing the ballast will effect the swim stability and could be the problem, but I suspect that you are just adding too much ballast. Weigh the two materials and find the difference. If the difference is significant, try and cram as much micro balloons in there as you can. This will thicken the mix up and make pouring a problem. I solved this by injecting the mix with a cake icing syringe. I have written about this in a few threads, so a search on "cake icing syringe" should pull up some reading material for you. Dave

There is a whole science around sinking rates, with calculations and formulas. I have been reluctant to post about it, but there is a ton of information on the web. If you own an accurate gram scale, it may be worth you reading up on my thread on Archimedes. This will allow you to document your sink rates with reference to specific gravity of the lure. This would mean that the numbers would have meaning regardless of the material used. Might be worth a read for you. DAve

So sorry to read this. Sincere condolences to his family. Coley was a star and will be missed. Dave

I have used a cordless for eight years. The battery limitations are a problem, giving me only some 20 minutes of continuous work. The power output cannot compare with a corded Dremel either. Were the cordless wins, is when I am at my test tank. I can trim the lip without having to unhook the lure and run back into the shop. For this reason I will always have a cordless in my armory, but a chorded Dremel will be added to my tool kit next time I set up shop. I find collets a pain. Next time I will be looking for a three jaw chuck. Dave

Here's a goodbye and good luck from another fan. Hope to see you back here one day DAve

David - what ever you guys want to give me. Dave

I would like you to mic the point to barb tip length and have a stab at the max rad dimensions, as shown on my PDF. One or two dimensions were missing, but enough there for me to have a stab at. I got your email. Sending a reply now. DAve

Excellent points Bob, I appreciate you taking the time. As you already know, I use parametrics. So once the basic design is done, it is just a matter of entering the numbers. In fact, although the two hooks above, 32786 and 91768, look quite different, I was able to use the same parametric model to get a result. Now that the main design work is done, it is about five minutes per hook to produce a 3D model, a drawing, PDF and a JPEG. I hope a few more members get on board with this idea, but I suspect it will wither away, like the lip template service that I offered a few years back. DAve

I had to re-send, the file upload failed in the post above. Dave hook data collection.pdf hook data collection.pdf hook data collection.pdf hook data collection.pdf hook data collection.pdf hook data collection.pdf hook data collection.pdf hook data collection.pdf hook data collection.pdf

The shape of the bends is more complex than I anticipated, appearing to be eliptical rather than radii. As the point of CAD models is to be able to use the data for possibly machining, it is critical that we model these bends and the barb as close as possible, to avoid expensive mistakes. I have therefore added more dimensions for the hook bend, required to help me model with more accuracy. Once the numbers are in, I can return PDF files for overlay. I have constructed the dimensions so that they are convenient to measure, to the outside of the hook. Attached is a table of dimensions to make the job of data collection easier for us both. Dave

I made a start. Dave

David - great stuff that last one. Exactly what I need Dave

I am prepared to take on the task of modelling ALL the hooks and making available CAD files. The formats that I have available are: CATPART, STL, IGS, MODEL, STP, 3DMAP, 3DXML, CGR, HGC, VPS WRL. All I am asking for this service, is that those of you with Vernier calipers or other accurate measuring tools, take seven measurements and post them in this thread along with the part name and number. The measurements I require are shown in the attached image. A photo would be a bonus, but not necessary for the job. Measurements can be metric or imperial inches. Dave

Very neat and simple Don - thanks for sharing. DAve

I have done a couple of hooks that I use (size 4 and 6 trebles). Like you, I was hoping to model them all. If you do find a dimensional source, let me know. I am also willing to share. Dave

Velleman do great self build kits and the instructions and materials are always good. As a lure builder, I think you would have no trouble building this machine. I am stuck in China at the moment, but as soon as I get back to Indonesia, I will definitely be doing this project. Dave

I want one Dave

Hi Pete - I am currently working in Shanghai. Before this I was working in Liuzhou and Donguan. Car design stuff. Postal is very difficult here. It took nearly a month to receive my new bank card from the UK. The problem is language, very few Chinese people speak let alone read English. I can imagine your package just continually placed at the bottom of the pile. Shanghai is an amazing city, but I am so busy with work (80hrs a week) that I just don't feel like getting out there to explore and take photos. Dave

Thanks Steve DAve

I do not agree with the comment 'it has all been done before'. Far from it I would say. Protecting your idea is a difficult and almost futile event. A patent will be necessary if you intend to sell to a larger company. I am currently working in China. Here, copying is normal, accepted business practice. The just look at me in bewilderment when I have a rant on the subject. If you invent a new idea that is popular and successful, it WILL get copied. I wish you lots of success. DAve

I have two solutions to this problem: 1 - I drill all holes while the blank is still square, as I do the hook slot. This minimizes the effect of the wood breaking up around the hole. 2 - I start off with a 1/8" diameter drill and increase the diameter is small increments. This may take six or more drill operations. 2a - I run all the drills in reverse. Using either or both of these methods, I never have any problems. Dave