Vodkaman

If you have already bought the filler, you can still use it. You cannot just mix and pour or you will end up with air bubbles around your bait. Pour about 1/4" in and work it into the baits with a wooden spatula to eliminate the air bubbles, then you can dump the rest in. Work quickly, this stuff sets up pretty quick. The filler is just the resin with filler compounds mixed in to thicken it up. You can even mix the two together and they will cure just fine. Shrinkage is an issue with both products, but the fish are not going to notice. Dave

Welcome to http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/9513-sencils-and-scales/page__p__62918__hl__%22scale+netting%22__fromsearch__1#entry62918 If you do a search on "scale netting" including the quotes, you will find a whole bunch of reading material. Check out the tutorial section too, their is bound to be something there to help you. Dave

Thanks Spoonbender, the message has already been forwarded to them. Now I must wait to see if they will fix the problem. Dave

I know this is a cheaky post. I appologise Jerry. But lure building is a family and we reside in more than one house, so I hope you forgive me. Delete if you consider inappropriate. I am unable to connect to bassresource.com I get a 'forbidden 403' message. If someone could inform the admin and explain my dilema on my behalf, I would appreciate it. This is embarrassing. Dave

Consider making an adjustable 'nail' block. Should not be difficult. Dave

Today was exceptional. One of those days were everything goes right, but you just know that it cannot last, and of course it didn’t. I played internet poker (pokerstars) and made 10,000 (play money, not real). That felt really good, only the second time I have achieved this goal. I then went to the bar and played pool (8 ball). The guy I played is a semi master and generally gives me a hard time, but tonight he got whooped, he won one game out of about 25, a serious ass kickin’. Customers watching said it was like I had a remote control for the white ball, it was that good. The new young bar maid has taken a shine to me and I am very hopeful, despite being old, bald and wrinkly. But at 1am, having consumed my allocated 3 beers, I started the ten minute ride home on my motorbike. It never rains after about 9pm, but we are talking monsoon. The bike electrics were flooded and it took me two hours to get home. I really thought I was going to have to sleep at the side of the road, but a local family took me in, served me coffee and even gave me a dry Tee shirt (this would never happen in my own country). An exceptional day, but Karma is never far away. Perhaps not a true definition of Karma, but the balance of events seemed somehow correct and I am contented. I am not looking for sympathy, but rather it struck me that everyone must have Karma stories to tell. I know I have a few more. Share your Karma stories. Dave

Very good solution Frank. Dave

Glad you are doing fine. Wish I had some money. Maybe next year. Dave

You need to start the paint flow away from the body and sweep across. Dave

I think their is something regal about having an idea, whittling something in wood, making a mold and casting a few for the overwhelming approval of our scaly friends. Dave

A lot of builders use a rattle can spray paint for the first/primer coat. The solvents present will 'etch' into the plastic and improve the adhesion, which seems to be your problem. You will have to leave these to gas off for 24 hours or you will end up with another set of problems. I only do wooden baits, so I could be way off base here. I also remember reading about a 'tack coat' primer, I think Rookie mentioned it. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/17107-auto-air-waterbased-adhesion-issue/ This is the thread I was thinking about. Dave

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/20368-unpainted-spinnerbait-heads-wcoil-keepers/page__p__151907__hl__unpainted__fromsearch__1#entry151907 Was this the thread? Dave

I hope you heed this advice from everyone, we are only thinking of your safety. If you have already bought it, save it for wifes birthday. I use something similar for cold injection of resin/microballoons into RTV molds, when the mixture is a bit too stiff for pouring. Dave

The packaging says' flavor injector' not 'hot molten plastic injector'. I would say why risk it. Sure it will work once or maybe a hundred times. The problem is that when it decides not to work, you are going to get hurt, maybe bad. Boiling water is about the limit for plastics. Save your money and buy a real one, designed for the job. Dave

Pete posted two days ago on an Australian lure building site and did not mention any problems. Dave

Nothing wrong with the question and yes, it is a difficult one to isolate with a search. I did an advanced search, limiting the results to the soft plastics forum, for the search string "glue down". It is very important to include the double quotes, as this forces the words to be in the same post, although not necessarily together. Not perfect, but it helps cut down the numbers. Dave

Seems to me their are three methods to achieve carved 3D scales: 1 - chisels, carving knives etc. 2 - engraving techniques, dremel tools etc. 3 - wood burning tools. These methods have been skirted around on this forum, but I cannot remember any thread that really got to grips with the subject, which kinda surprises me. Why not document your progress with photos and written comentary of your experiences (good and bad) and post it. The thing to remember is that you will be applying one or two coats of a thick top coat, so the scale carving will need to be exagerated so that the texture shows through the coatings. Practise on scrap pieces first, to get into the technique. Here are a couple of web sites that I found with a simple search of "carving fish scales": http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/forum/f60/small-scale-fish-carving-15831/ http://www.fishcarver.com/making_fish_scale_tips.htm http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/forum/f40/carving-fish-scales-12086/ Their are video results too covering carving and burning. Good luck and I look forward to your instructional thread. Dave

You may be able to rescue the mold, depending on how deep you have to dig for the worms. Next time, it is very important to degrease the worms. Wash in warm water with detergent and dry thoroughly before attempting to stick down. Here are a few links to the same discussion: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/13769-1st-attempt-at-creating-a-resin-mold/page__p__102755__hl__%22glue+down%22__fromsearch__1#entry102755 http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/13525-helpmade-my-first-moldwasnt-good/page__p__100000__hl__%22glue+down%22__fromsearch__1#entry100000 http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/12676-on-gluing-soft-baits-down/page__p__91713__hl__%22glue+down%22__fromsearch__1#entry91713 These should help. Dave

Ted, I am a bit out of my depth with these questions, but here are my thoughts: JB weld – needs a rough surface to make a mechanical bond. If the bond surface is smooth, the JB will just chip off. If the ‘cut’ is made only just big enough and a smear of JB is used, the chances are that it will flake away. The cut needs to be larger and the surface roughed up. A 1/8” dremel router bit is good for this purpose, maybe the addition of a few shallow pin holes with a 1mm dia drill, 0.5mm deep is enough, don’t risk snapping the drill. Welding aluminium – I would be very nervous about this operation. Yes, some crystallization changes are going to occur around the welded area, but this is not going to affect the functionality of the mold. The changes could affect corrosion resistance as you are changing structure. My main concern would be permanent distortion of the mold mating surfaces, causing excess flashing. Another consideration is the make up of the aluminium used. It is almost certainly going to be an alloy of some description and may not be weld-able or at least difficult. May be worth talking to the mold supplier for his input on the material used, but don't expect him to give you the go-ahead for a welding op', you will have to research that viability question yourself. Dave

Check out your local builders yard. The lead sheat is sold in rolls about 6" wide, for roofing jobs. Dave

You are not messing up at all. Some of the top builders do it one way, some the other. The arguement for fitting the lip just before the top coat, is for a cleaner paint job and no lip masking operations. Nothing wrong with either method. Dave

You could be right, what you have written makes sense. If you ARE right and the solution is that simple, then their are going to be a lot of engineers kicking themselves for not thinking the problem through properly. I include myself too, even though I don't pour plastics or own an injector, I have read all the problem posts and feel that if a problem exists, I want to solve it. Good luck with the testing. Be thorough and certain before publishing. Dave

This post is outragous. Not only are you copying another companies tech, you are advertising your own products here on TU. Dave

You are going about learning the craft the right way, learning to make the lure and get it to swim properly before moving on to the next stage. Something that an experienced TU user often writes is this, "all woods are cheap compared to the time that you invest in a lure". Compared with other woods, balsa is more expensive. It is just convenient in the sizes that you can buy and effort required to work it. You can mold balsa bodies, or any other material for that matter. You just need to seal the wood and get a nice surface finish. Don't even think about plaster of paris, go straight in with RTV. Dave