Vodkaman

I posted this in the docks because it is not a question, just a soap box rant. Does anyone else hate D2T syringes as much as I do. They stick, then all of a sudden the stuff globs out. You look at the two portions that you have been dealt, it is like a half ball shot into the corner pocket, you know the white is going to the other corner, but you play it anyway, hoping you are wrong. You know that the two parts are not equal, but you go ahead and mix it anyway, hoping for the best. WRONG! MISTAKE! DO NOT DO IT! Adjust the shot with a little bottom spin or better still, choose another shot. Adjust the mix proportions or better still, bin it and start again, you know it makes sense. Yes, if the mix does not set, you can fix with an extra coat. But this is not always an acceptable solution, especially if you are working around a fine balance or working close to neutral buoyancy. I just cleaned of the goop from the almost finished lure. Now my hands are burning with the solvent. Indonesian rubber gloves are too small for my hands. I can normally avoid contact with the chemicals, but not this time. What is worse, is that I wiped the excess epoxy on the side of my turning wheel frame, now that is all sticky too. The lip is also seriously clouded too, fortunately the lure is just a proto, otherwise it would have been scrapped. Not a good day. I am going to have to renew my search for a local epoxy supplier, as D2T is like chickens teeth and very expensive ($4.30 for one ounce). Buying on-line is not an option either, unless I am spending BIG money. Decided to make a 3 egg omelet, but the last egg looked a bit lonely, so I cracked in the fourth. You guessed it, the fourth egg was bad, had to throw the lot away. Definitely not a good day. I thought about jumping on the bike and nipping down to the supermarket, but it just started raining. Bad, Bad day. I hope my bad day at least serves some purpose and makes you grin a little. I’ll probably have a grin myself, maybe next week. I’d settle for a large Vodka right now, but I don’t keep it in the house. I’ve got half a bottle of flat coke and a good imagination, that will have to do. Dave

Deskjet is a brand name belonging to Hewlett Packard and is an ink jet printer. So your ink jet decal should work. Dave

I guess this one is up for grabs as the patent expired 20 years ago: http://www.freepatentsonline.com/3438144.pdf Dave

Faster than I thought! I put the numbers through my centrifugal forces calculator, some serious loads going on. A 10 gram weight being thrown outwards at 300 grams. I take it that the 20 - 40 pressure is the clamping pressure or is the lead under injection pressure also? Dave

I only pour a few ballast molds, so no need for such equipment, but I am always interested in technology. If I was to need more movement of lead, I would probably go vacuum, because I have been there before. Question - what speeds are we talking about ?rpm. Thanks for sharing. Dave

I was going to post that I thought the double curvature would cause creasing problems, but obviously not. Nice bait Rayburnguy. Dave

I bet their is a DIY solution, but who is going to be the first to try it, with all that hot lead flying around. Is it just numbers or can spincasting do other stuff that normal pouring cannot do? Dave

In the car industry, we provide 2D drawings, mainly for all the hole dimensions and tolerances. The drawing also states all the general production tolerances ans process notes necessary for the job. The days of dimensioning a drawing to death are long gone, but drawings are still required. Boeing must carry this information somehow. Slightly off topic, but interesting. Dave

It's going on way too thick by dipping, also you are wasting a lot of expensive epoxy. Needs to be brushed on. Dave

The information you gave in your first post was comprehensive. I should have followed the links, my bad. Dave

It is always a good idea to discuss the job with the machine engineer and allow him to have some say in the design, particularly if you have no machining experience yourself. One or two insignificant design changes could save you a fortune. Without this discussion, the machinist will bend over backwards trying to give you what you want, when it wasn't really necessary. This is the way it works in industry, were the designers and the machine engineers curse each other behind their backs. Good design is always a compromise. Dave

I did understand the question, but sometimes their is an underlying problem. Plus, this was on my mind after emptying about 2 to 3 pints of sludge all over my floor. If you haven't actually drained your tank for a long time, it is worth looking into. I live in a very humid climate and so I will be emptying mine with a bit more regularity from now on. Dave

I think it is a logperch. I could not find a pic of a walleye juvenile, but came across this pic. Dave

When was the last time you drained your pressure tank? I will let you guess how I thought of this one, lol. It actually fits, that you hinted that the problem had only just started occurring. Tip - don't open it onto your workshop floor thinking it will be a few drops of clear water, I emptied about 2 pints of brown sludge onto my nice tiled floor. Dave

Thankyou my friend and for that I won't even mention Pre###n. Dave

It will work on any metal pan, just not as well as magnetic iron or steel. About 90% of the heat comes from inducing an electrical current into the pan via magnetic flux. The extra 10% of heating in a magnetic pan is to do with magnetic effects. I was reading about this a few days ago for another project. Dave

I have just made a rotary stand, for a different purpose. I used a very large ball race bearing, 120mm inside diameter. The bearing not only provides the rotation movement, but also the size and weight makes the unit very stable as a free standing unit. It was very easy to make from ply wood scraps. Dave

Thankyou all. I managed to have a good day without inflicting pain on myself or others. Dave

Thanks Patrick, but I don't remember any daft questions. That video song was way too close to reality, it scared me, lol. Dave

Have to agree. good engineering solution. Dave

Standard PVC pipe clips. Just clip on, no fuss. Genious. Dave

I think it is a very good idea too. The only difference that I can see between the commercial tool and your solution, is the distance between the tip and the holding position. It would be nice to reduce this distance for more control, but I have not found a solution yet. Maybe it is not necessary if you have a steady hand. Dave

I have tried both axes and it did not seem to make any difference. At the starting out stage, only one epoxy mix to one lure. After applying the epoxy fairly thick, long sweeping strokes from nose to tail and lift off the excess with the brush. Keep the lure moving in your hand so that the epoxy does not get a chance to pool. Strong lighting to look for blemishes and missed spots. Epoxy has to be thick in order to level out, but it can be too thick. Have folded tissue ready, to squeeze excess epoxy out of the brush, using finger and thumb. Clean brush with acetone thoroughly and leave to air dry. Do not touch the bristles with your fingers to test, they will be just fine, take my word for it. Dave

I just glued the eyes into a batch of baits. I was thinking to myself, "the working time seems to be quite long on this batch" as I was gluing up a record fifth bait. Then I realized that I had forgotten to add the drops of hardener. Came up with some real good names for that batch of lures. Dave