Vodkaman

3/16" dowel and a pencil sharpener. Make any size you want. Dave

I am not an expert by any means. But following discussions with a patent lawyer, once the patent has been registered or applied for (pending), this gives me freedom to manufacture and distribute my product under the protection of the patent. This first part of the patent procedure is the cheapest and gives me two years (I think) to test the market. If successful, I continue the process and throw more money at it. Eventually, the patent is granted and I get my number and certificate etc. Then I can challenge anyone who copied my work, even if my work was only patent pending at the time. If I am wrong in this understanding, please correct me. Patent pending means that the design is off limits. If the designer chooses not to follow through with the full patent, then you are OK. Best not to invest too much in tooling if the bait is pending. Dave

It is all down to whether the lure design is patented. As for a worm, their is not much room for patents, a worm is a worm, unless it has specific features. If the lure is patented, it will likely quote patent numbers on the package and/or web site. Names are a separate issue. You can get into trouble by using the same name or even a similar name, even if the bait is not patented. Personally, I believe that if you are going to sell lures, then you should go to the trouble of developing your own lure, rather than copying someone elses work and calling it your own, even if the original was not protected. But we have been here before and I have heard all the arguements about customer demands etc. so I hope this doesn't develope into another heated discussion. I accept that this is not a moral industry, with the big players stealing from the small players. This fact will probably be justification enough for the small players to copy the big players. I suggest do a little research before exposing yourself to risk of legal action. Do not make the mistake of thinking that you are too small for them to bother about. Their are plenty of posts here on TU, about the dreaded 'cease and desist' letter arriving to spoil your day. Dave

Sorry Rofish, My mistake. I remember having discussions with someone who was studying fluids at the time, 2 - 3 years ago. The action that I have experienced, is a zig zag pattern. The lure swims of at angle, then changes direction. The pattern is symmetrical about the line of retrieval. I built about fifty lures, varying the lip angle and geometry. They all hunted, but to different degrees. The hunting that I have seen in my lures varies from the slightest movement offset from centre to a swim so wild, you might think that the predator could not possibly catch the bait. I find that the hunter is a combination of lip angle, geometry and ballast location. Dave

Rofish, yes I am convinced that their are more causes for hunting. True, I have only found one of them, but up until Rookies post, I haven't been tempted to look for more. So far, I cannot get my rudimentary knowledge of fluids to explain a hunting action from Rookies gills. This probably just means that I need to learn more. What are your thoughts, as you studied fluids, if I remember right? Dave

SB, the two groups of small bubbles looks like breaches in the seal coat, rather than a problem with the top coat. It just seems strange that all the bubbles are grouped in two locations. Looking forward to seeing more results. Thankyou for taking the time and effort to report your findings. Dave

LOL, yes it does look that way. Just professional curiosity I assure you. Dave

Rookie, would love to see some pics of the bait. Not so sure the gills are causing the hunt, but that hardly matters. The fact is that the body is molded and you can reproduce the effect. What shaped lip are you using, I am guessing square? Dave

I could take a purists view and say that is not hunting, but that would be foolish. What we are looking for is that extra, that makes the fish bite and this lure definately has it. Can't wait to see the design. Dave

Foamies are different to resin with micro balloons, two different products. The foam comes in different weight ratings, 2Lb, 4Lb 8Lb and 16Lb. These numbers represent the weight of a cubic foot. For lure building, you need 16Lb foam, the rest are too soft. 16Lb foam gives a specific gravity of 0.25 (water = 1.00), this is very good for lively action. Resin with microballoons will give more hardness and structure, at the expense of density. Best you can hope for is 0.65 - 0.70. This is not necessarily a disadvantage. One advantage is less lead required compared with low density foam. So the question is, what are you looking for, resin or expanding foam? Dave

That is a very small diameter for through drilling. Depending on the grain, it is bound to wander some. RG is correct, I would just add, cut small amounts then clear the swarf, don't try to cut too much at once. Also, cut half way, then drill from the other end (pin location method). Dave

I think it is all down to the expansion that you talked about in an earlier post (No7). If the cross section is round, then at the split line their is no draft angle and the expansion presses out and grips the mold. I googled bismuth and the expansion is 3.32%, which is considerable. I do not know what the expansion would be with an alloy, but I think that this is the problem. As you mentioned this fact earlier, I think you do too. If this is a big problem, then more doctoring of the mold will be required, to introduce draft angle. Dave

these lures had best be for your own use only, or you will find yourself in BIG trouble. Introduce the vents one at a time, you may not need them all. Start off in the problem areas. Dave

If I was making a mold of this bait, the pic shows how I would vent it (the two lines on the left represent the sprue). Dave

Found it in 'my paint shop', page 4. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/3592-my-paint-shop/ Dave

You could do some tests, but I think an over night soak would be required and would not do any harm. Report back on your findings, this is useful feedback. Dave

Henry, with 400 blades to strip, I think you have only one option and that is paint stripper. With the blades being steel, no worries about damaging them. Treat paint stripper with respect, it is nasty stuff. Wear the correct gloves, work out doors, wear eye protection. Dave

Blatz, it would probably help a lot if we knew where you are from. Pangea although mildly amusing (not), just does not cut it. My guess would be that just about every DIY store in the USA sells silicone sealant. But not all silicone sealants are the same (page 2, post No26, Husky). The correct sealant will smell of vinegar. Of course, you cannot open the tube for a sniff, so read down the small print on the label and look for 'acetic acid'. You can then buy with confidence. I too am curious what an e-con is. Dave

Jim, this is more of a mold design problem, rather than the injection machines problem. My thoughts are that more generous distribution ports would preserve the lamination. The down side would be more wasted plastic. The big plus with this machine, is that it provides individual temperature control for each pot. This will allow for fine tuning the laminate. This machine is a big step forward and I am sure that mold design will follow to suit. Dave

Just a thought Markw, if you added another two nails, then when you twisted the pliers through 90°, you could hook the band over four nails, enabling hands free operation. The second pair of nails would be slightly shorter than the first. Dave

You should keep the failures. These provide an opportunity to learn. When you get more of a feel for the swimmer, return to the failure and experiment with it. Dave

A plastic like construction method using a very light material. Plus the construction is hollow, which would offset the effects of the heavier binder material. Should make for a very lively action. Like with all manufactured plastic baits, you are at the mercy of production quality control. Hopefully they can keep the process within the required limits and produce a bait that swims true every time. Dave

That is a great price for this kit. Dave

The question of VEE orientation has been discussed before. Some think that the VEE affects the action directly, personally I do not, but that is just my opinion, not proven. If you are using a pin/eye hinge arrangement, then you have moved the pivot further forward, by moving the pin to the first segment. This slight change in geometry may have caused the problem, but purely conjecture on my part. If you are using an eye/eye hinge, then this argument is invalid, as the pivot point has not changed. You are obviously very close to success. Maybe a slight adjustment to the ballast or the tow eye will solve the problem. In my testing, I have found that the tow eye has to be off centre (in side view). I have found with lipless multi section baits, either they swim or they don't, no inbetween. You can be so close and not realise it. Dave

No idea what the cost will be, but judging from Bears past products, I am sure it will be a bargain. Someone guessed at $3000, my guess would be closer to $5000. A lot depends on what parts can be sourced ready made and what parts need to be specially made. I think it is all down to what is inside the heat exchangers. I think it is a great design, because you don't have to wait for 5 gallons of plastic to heat up. Dave