Vodkaman

Great write up PP, very good information. I particularly agree with your last paragraph: Learn to use PoP first. Make your mistakes and ride the learning curve. This way you will save money when you move to RTV by making less mistakes. Each individual material will have its own learning curve, but PoP molding covers the basics. Dave

Of course their is always vacu-forming, for those difficult pours. If you own a shop vac, you are almost there. Piscivovous Pike has explored this area. Dave

The spiral cutter might work, but really the router is the wrong tool for the job. You would be much better investing in a belt sander. They usually come as a combination of a belt and a disk. The disk sander has an adjustable plate. This tool is perfect for the job you are talking about and is one of the best buys I ever made. Once you own one, you will find so many uses for it. Dave

Tremendous action on those baits. Yet another powerful video. Dave

Loved it. Great video. I would like to see a vid of them in action. Dave

I like this. Not affraid to experiment. I did the balsa thing. It worked, but was a lot of effort. Keep us informed. Dave

Well, I am so sorry that we have not isolated the problem for you. What is important, is when you finally nail the problem, to report back with the solution, so that we can all learn. TU gets a lot of these type of threads, but not all of them report back with the solution. Good luck and get some out. Dave

Just shows that their is a lot more to learn about swimbaits before we can guarantee the outcome. Dave

I have just re-read the original thread, where you asked the question. Here is the link for anyone else who would like to read it: http://www.tackleund..._1entry144178 LKN4DDB mentioned heat setting in post No6, but you did not respond to the heat setting idea. Createx paint was designed for TEE shirts and requires heat setting with a hot hair dryer, preferably after every single coat of createx. This causes some kind of cross linking of the paint molecules and is absolutely necessary. Here is a link to a post about heat setting: http://www.tackleund...__fromsearch__1 read the entire thread but particularly post No10. The most likely problem is a reaction between your base coat and the lacquer top coat, as mentioned by KcDano. If you read the instructions on the can, it will probably be fast drying (15 minutes between coats) but it will also say 2 days to cure. When asked, you told us the base coat was a cheap spray can, but you did not say what type of paint or the manufacturer. Someone here is bound to have used that particular paint before and would be able to give their experiences. If the heat setting and allowing the base coat to dry thoroughly does not work, then I think you should switch to something more reliable, like D2T. I think it is important for you to get some successful baits out before this problem spoils the whole game for you. Dave

I tried sculpy type clay once and found it difficult to work with, similar to the problems that you are having. I switched to wood and carved the shape. I would then skim with car filler and sand with coarse grit paper (120 grit). Being very critical of my work, sanding and re-filling until I got the blemish free shape that I wanted. I think this is important, as all the faults/blemishes are going to be duplicated on the casts. Finish off with 400 grit and a smooth coat of epoxy, to get a really glossy cast. The work you put in at this stage will reap benefits later. You may be able to apply the above method to your sculpy master, but I have never tried it. Dave

PhilB, I messed around with the polyester resin and MB's a couple of years ago. I had the same problem as you, trying to get the mixture light enough to be able to get some lead in there to ballast the lure. I added 3.5gm of MB's to 20gm of resin, this gave me a body density of 0.72gm/cm3 (equivalent of beech, birch, oak). This is a HUGE amount of micro balloons! It took some mixing too, as the bubbles were a problem in a mixture this thick, about the consistency of English mustard. I would spread the mixture up the sides of the mixing cup, with a knife, to release the bubbles. Obviously, such a thick mix cannot be poured. I solved this problem by spooning into a cake icing injector and injecting into the mold. Clean-up was fairly simple, withdraw plunger and wipe excess off with tissue, re-insert the plunger and draw acetone in and out from a bowl about 20 times and set aside to dry. The acetone can be used many times, just allow to settle and pour off the sediment. Yes, bubbles still occurred. I filled these with a filler and lightly sanded. After first use of the syringe, do not clean off the nozzle thread area, so the excess resin fills the voids and makes subsequent injections more efficient with less waste. I bought several injectors, thinking they would not last long. This was not necessary, as I did about 400 casts and the syringe is still good. The method worked, but the density was too much for the lure I was designing. I wanted a wide action, but the density would not allow. Also, as you stated, the bodies will be brittle, but acceptable for your own use, as you know the limitations. Dave

Did the problem re-start at the same time as you started using the new airbrush? I ask this because new brushes are greased up and require cleaning out, before use. This could well be your problem, traces of oil getting onto your lure body with the paint. Dave

No apology necessary, just wanted to set the record straight, just incase. Strange that it leaves bubbles. Dave

Thanks for the vid Diemai. I particularly like that you post all the baits, not just the ones that you consider successful. This helps us all learn and gains you more respect. You sounded a little disappointed in the pike bait. It swam as I expected, with a fast wiggle. This being created by the lip. I am surprised that you did not try the bait without a lip. The body design looks perfect for lipless operation, which would have given a slower, more pronounced cadence. It has a reasonable action, so I would not dare to suggest that you cut it off. Maybe try without the lip on the next one. If no action, it is easy to add a lip. You obviously have a very good 'feel' for lipless swimbaits, as demonstrated with the carp lure and your previous video. Looking forward to the next installment. Dave

Welcome Willis and Sherry, to TU. Very interesting and comprehensive introduction. I am sure that you both will have a lot to contribute to this site. What a great job, field testing lures AND getting paid for it at the same time! I would love to read an article from you both, in the docks forum, on the subject. I think field testing is very important and many of us builders could learn a few things/ideas from you. Dave

Thanks for the link RayburnGuy, very interesting information. Can't believe I didn't look for it myself. I thought the butane looked promising, with a specific gravity (sg) of 2.0061 compared with argon sg of 1.38 (sg of air = 1.0000). Butane is very cheap, readily available in small cannisters, easily administered from a blow torch or even a simple lighter. I believe this could be worth a trial in a small jar. Say half inch of DN in each of two jars. Open daily and protect one with butane each time. I would gladly do the test for you, but I do not have access to DN living in Indonesia. I have had my neck stomped on in the past for suggesting testing to be done by others, please do not do it again, I am just trying to help. Dave

From what I have learned here about basswood here on TU, it is probably not the best choice for esox. Once water gets access, the wood swells, then it is all over. Some kind of penetrating sealer will be required, to prevent the pierced top coat from allowing water to reach the raw wood. I like thin prop, soaked under a low vacuum, but not so sure even if this would do the job. Because this wood is soft, it allows the teeth to pierce deeper than some harder woods. I agree with Diemai, that the best solution would be a hard, water proof body material, like resin, plastic or similar. Water will still get under the top coat, but the bait would still perform and could be stripped and re-painted in the future. Dave

Thanks Frank. I agree, video is a powerful tool for selling. I know a few TU members that use video on their business web sites. You can see exactly what you are buying. Dave

Frank, could you post a link please? Thanks, Dave

I do not like using router machines, but sometimes it is the best tool for the job. I own two, one fixed in a table, the other for free hand work. Of all the various router bits, the corner round bit seems to give the least trouble as regards kicking. But all this does is lull you into a false sense of security, so when it does kick, you will probably have to change your underpants. TC's method is a very good one, cutting two or more baits, joined end to end. Better for two reasons: first, you can keep your fingers further away from the cutter, second, this method avoids cutting the end grain. I would always recommend avoiding using a router cutter on end grain or cutting against the wood grain, as this is where the problems are generated, but cannot always be avoided. Read the booklet/instructions that come with your router, particularly about the feed direction, this is important. Here is a link to some useful instructions on router use: http://www.ehow.com/how_4530577_beginner-tips-using-router-woodworking.html Instructions always say to wear gloves, this saves you having to search the dirty workshop for the end of your finger. Don't forget the eye and ear protection. Dave

No offense, but I think that posting that it is safe to add water to molten plastic at 350F is dangerous and missleading to new commers to plastics. True, using a blanket statement that "the plastic will explode", may be overkill, but under certain conditions, it is true. Dave

The squeezy bottle idea sounds good, but would have to be tested for reaction before committing. If I was able to get my hands on a moisture cure product, I would be thinking on the lines of making some kind of syringe container, possibly using pvc pipe, commonly used for plumbing. Decanting into smaller storage containers/bottles is a very easy way of managing these sensitive products. Lots of TU members use this method. A full vacuum would work, but could be dangerous. I would not try it with a glass container. Metal or plastic containers would collapse under atmosphere pressure, so I don't think that this would be a good solution. But I guess it has to be tried. If you already have a pump capable of 25 inches of mercury, why not. Dave

From an engineering point of view I would say it would partially work at best. Not sure if it is moisture or oxygen you have to prevent, but either way, those machines are not providing you with a full vacuum, only a few inches of mercury at best. Bloxygen or a heavy inert gasses like argon are completely protecting the surface from contact with lighter gasses like oxygen. Opinion only. Dave

The Huddleston/Wedgetail case just endorses what we at TU have already established, that patent law is a very expensive minefield, with no guarantees of success, whether defending or challenging a patent with a justifiable case. Further to post No56 by DJS, here is a link to a report on the case: http://www.sughrue.c...ail.aspx?id=731 were Wedgetail sued Huddleston for infringement and for some reason, Huddleston prevailed. Here is a link to the Wedgetail patent: http://www.freepaten...om/6857220.html If you are a member (free) of patentsonline, you can click on the PDF for a full read of the patent. I find it very scary that Huddleston prevailed, as the Wedgetail 220 patent is very comprehensive in its tail design. Of course, we do not know the details and the reasoning why the Wedgetail litigation failed, but it seems to me to be more about the quality of the lawyers than of the patent itself. I was also a bit disturbed that costs were not automatically awarded to the ‘winner’, but that only in exceptional circumstances are costs of litigation awarded. But comparing Huddlestons recently granted patent: http://www.freepaten...om/7627979.html with the 220 patent, I still fail to see the innovation, in fact all I see is infringement of the Wedgetail 220 patent. Compare the laughable figure 6 of the Huddleston 979 patent with figure 21 of the Wedgetail 220 patent. The designs are identical. I say laughable because of the vortices depicted in the figure 6 diagram which are completely wrong. Again, I find no innovation here and my only hope to gain a modicum of faith in the US patent system, is that Wedgetail hire some better lawyers and get back in there and win one for the true innovators, because if this one cannot be won, what hope is there for the rest of us? Dave

The baking sounds a bit over the top and unnecessary. When I used fibreglass resin, I had no such problems, but you are probably using a different type of resin. I just left the bodies for 24 hours, then a light sanding to remove seam lines and any blemishes. Are you letting the bodies cool before applying the paint? If not cool, this could be causing a problem. A picture would help. Dave