Vodkaman

Jerry, yes I understand. My table saw has the angle adjustment also. Thanks for the link, however I do not want to order online. I would say 20 - 30% of mail does not get through. I will try to source the speed controller locally, if not available, I will build one myself. Lots of suitable circuits on the web. Just scary switching it on the first time (rubber gloves). Dave

You chose probably the most difficult project for your first attempt. It looks to be going well. Keep posting your progress. Dave

Here is a couple of links that will give you some idea of the variations available. I am sure there are more out there, just waiting to be discovered. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/17246-hinge-ideas-please.html http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/17138-double-pin-hinge.html Dave

Kelly and Redg8r, you both suggested angling of the cutter (roll). This surprised me, as I thought that this would load the cutter, as I stated in my previous post. After re-evaluating, I realize that I was wrong. I will try to find a solution for a roll adjustor for the beam and do some experiments. The grinder spins at 12,000 and the 4

Typical Ozzy, the first comment was about the beer cooler. But I have to admit, when I saw the pic, I thought, "Well at least the beer survived". All those Ozzy fosters adds are no exageration, this is how people think in the land of Oz. Glad that everyone was safe. Dave

Unable to purchase a 12mm collet at this time, I have modified the duplicator to accept an angle grinder, fitted with a standard 4

Pete, thanks for posting this interesting article. I would love to get involved with a team project like this one, I feel that I could contribute. The first thing I would suggest is pressure sensors along the lateral line, so that the movement of the robot can react to the vortices. At the moment it is just flapping around and going nowhere, it is like they are missing the point. It is a bit like spinning a hoop around your arm. If the movement of the arm does not exactly match the hoop, then nothing happens, your arm is flapping in the wind. The hoop can be spun with your eyes closed, the feedback (pressure sensors) is the hoop contact with your arm. The computer (your brain) calculates the required arm movement to match the hoop movement. They more or less admit this, in that they state that the robot can only move at 10% the speed of a natural fish. It is going to take many years to solve this complex problem, after all, it is only now that robotics can emulate human movement. The scientists have been working at that for some 30 years. Dave

Only last week I checked out the rules on a lake I used to fish as a boy, Llyn Cynwch, North Wales: Llyn Cynwch - No fishing allowed on this lake before 8 a.m. nor later than time on clock in car park. Bag limit: 3 fish. No spinning, ground baiting or loose feeding. Fishing method only fly, worm and maggots. Catch and release allowed if you are fly fishing (not bait) on Llyn Cynwch - however you can keep no more than three fish. Important - for fly fishing you must use barbless hooks. BORING! information on our licences In England, fishing is know as the largest participant sport of all. I suspect that the same is true in the USA. That is a loud noise, if you can get them all to shout together. Good luck with the campaign. Hope you succeed were the UK failed. Dave

Zbass nailed it. Don't know what you would seal it with though, to take the plastic temperature. A few tests are in order. Dave

Outragous post BBK. What business is it of yours or any ones, what mradamh or anyone charges for their work. Certainly not the subject for a public forum. If you have a personal issue, use the pm system. Dave

This is one of those things that is difficult to explain (for me) but very easy to do once you try. All will become clear after your first attempt. The second vice will not be required, the hand held pliers give you enough leverage to achieve tension. Also, the vice will not help you do the first twist, to set up the eye. If you omit the first twist and go straight into the barrel twist, the eye will not be centered. The only thing that occasionally goes wrong, is when the wire slips off the nail. With a little practice, this is easily avoided. I suggest you have a go, then come back with any problems. Dave

Dan, I started a new thread with the instructions: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/18241-barrel-twist-eyes.html#post135511 Did not want to detract from this thread. Dave

In pull tests I have found the loose barrel twisted eye performs better than the regular twisted eye and is just as easy to make. Thanks to Hazmail for introducing this wire configuration. Tools needed: safety glasses, bench vice, wire cutters, pliers, centre punch, small hammer, wood block, and rounded nail. Safety first, round off the nail point. Inevitably you will catch your wrist on the point (I did). Wear safety glasses when snipping wire, small off cuts can fly anywhere. Clamp the nail at the edge of the vice. Bend the short end 90 degrees and hold with pliers, the long end is held in other hand. The first twist sets up the eye and is made 180 degrees and pulled tight. Twist it another half turn, close to the nail and tight. Now pull the pliers out straight and tight. Wind the other end around to form the loose barrel twist. While still holding the pliers and the loose end in the pliers hand and the loop still on the nail, snip off the excess and discard. This technique prevents bits of wire flying everywhere. Place the loop on a wood block, locate a centre punch in the eye and lightly tap with a small hammer. This tidies up the eye. Waste is 2

And I thought that the UK waters were over fished! I have seen such ponds in my travels around Bandung, many of them much smaller than you describe, with a dozen people fishing them. It always made me smile. In such a confined space, the fish soon learn what is food and what is immitation. Also, if everyone is throwing cranks, it must feel to the fish like it is raining bricks! I have not fished in Indonesia yet, but I have seen many large natural lakes. Have you fished these? Any good? what kind of fish? I'm sure members would like to see a pic or two of the type of fish that you catch. I visited some friends in a mountain campung (village) once and was tasked with catching a few fish for the meal. The pond was 5m x 3m. I struggled to catch anything with the bread that they gave me, so I used some pork luncheon meat that my wife had bought earlier that day. Very successful. The dinner guests congratulated me on my catch and asked many questions. I made the mistake of telling them about the pork meat. One woman threw up and refused to eat any more. The others laughed, but I felt so embarrassed. Sorry for the digression. Dave

In my personal example above, I just remembered that I also added the hooks, not just the top coat. But the same principle applies. Dave

Their was a huge thread on dents back in January, probably worth reading: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/15558-dents-5.html Dave

0.04ozs does not seem like much when reading this thread, but when converted to grams it is 1.14gm in a 23gm lure. I just weighed some eagle claw size 4 and some split rings hook = 1.01gm, ring = 0.19gm so you have effectively added more than the weight of one hook assembly. So not so surprising that the action has changed. Of course it does not work as pure ballast, as epoxy has a density of about 1.2, so the change to the ballast is a lot smaller, but consider this: a couple of years ago, I designed a lure (the same size as yours), I got it swimming perfect, just how I wanted. Pleased with myself, I painted it and applied one coat of D2T. I went back down to the communal test tank (swimming pool) to see how it looked in the water. The action was gone. Often a lures action is a fine balance. So the balance has to be established with the top coat in place. This is the case with mine and I suspect yours too. As for the solution, try taping a small lead to the belly, try different amounts and note any changes. My thoughts are that the slight increase in ballast, distributed all over the lure, has lessened the effect of the hook ballast, causing it to roll more. Adding a little weight to the belly should restore the balance. I could be way off here, so as Bob suggested, try reducing ballast also, by removing a hook or down sizing. If nothing else, you will learn about the effects that such subtle changes can make. Dave

Ben good luck with the project. Mike, your karma is in the post. Dave

Kelly, thanks for all the input and feedback. I managed to purchase a full round cutter, but it is a 12mm collet, so now I need to find a collet. I take your point with the rounding of an existing cutter. I have a few old cutters, I could give that a try. I have a couple of stones for sharpening the plane m/c blades, be they seem a bit too fine for this job. My next tool purchase will be a grinder, but not even sure about this use, could be dangerous! I have never used one. You are correct about the stock clamp, I started to get really complex with it. I viewed Jerry's machine again last night, such a simple spring loaded affair. Thinking about it, the stock was kicking out, because it was just too large for the body size I was cutting, also, on the original spring loaded spike plate, the spikes were too close to the edge of the stock. So I am re-visiting the spike plate and using an idea similar to yours, by adding a top and side plate, for support ('L' as opposed to your 'C' suggestion). This will help to locate the trimmed down stock in the correct place. Also the two spike plates can be opposed at each end of the stock. I will keep your suggestion ready if this one should fail. As for the counter balance (you are on the ball!), I have used two plastic bottles, partially filled with water, hanging beneath the stylus end. This arrangement is easy to 'tune' the pressure on the cutter and the stylus. If you view the second picture in post #20 http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/13966-wokshops-2.html you can see the machine behind the router table, with the bottles hanging. I did not want to get involved with speed adjustment, so the thing is turning at 23,000 rpm. With the reduced stock, this seems to be working just fine. Once again, good input, thanks. Dave

Happy birthday Pete, hope you have a great day. Keep those 'out of the box' ideas comming. Dave

Twisted wire eyes are OK too. After testing, I found that 0.031SS wire starts to distort at around 8 - 10Lbs, but still holds. I found that a plain twist pulled out at around 20Lbs, leaving the glue behind in the body. A barrel twist held 40Lbs for 48 hours before I stopped the test. Pete (Hazmail) put me onto the barrel twist. See post ten of this link http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/16723-balsa-filler-wire-assembly-questions.html for a pic. Keep in mind, fish never load the baits up that much. The only time you test the eyes is when trying to retrieve the lure from a snag. The object is to make the wood the weakest link, it is all about surface area of contact with the wood. In theory the screw eye of the same length will be stronger than a twisted eye, because it has more surface area (in the threads). This is a mute point when you are talking such high loads, as the hooks or line will fail first, as mentioned above. Dave

Frank, I will make a vid soon, just don't want to embarrass myself just yet. Dave

Frank and Pete, I agree, this may be the way to go. Unfortunately, my router is fixed collet (1/2") and fixed speed (mega fast). I will see what is available. But what ever cutter is chosen, it will have to do the entire job, changing cutters is not an option. The length of the cutter is important, it has to extend about 50mm past the router mounting structure as this structure has to clear the stock clamps. This is why I chose a 1/2" dia cutter. I feel a smaller diameter cutter of this length would introduce chatter or tool bounce, could even snap under the load. I built the new stock clamp today. A vast improvement in performance. No breakouts of the stock and I was able to machine the stock thinner at each end, so I will probably stay with the 6mm spindle. However, the clamping process is very cumbersome and time consuming, with eight screws. I now have a better design in my head, that should be even more secure with only two screws. Better still if I can find a supply of wing bolts. Timing is 7 minutes per blank, this includes loading and unloading. With the new design of clamp, I should be able to reduce this by a couple of minutes. Actual routering of the profile is only about 90 seconds, the rest of the time is making the initial cut into the stock, which has to be done with care. Dave

What you have modelled is the designers ideal. The CNC engineers ideal would be a rectangular lure with 3/4" corner radii. Engineering is nearly always a compromise. What you have modelled is useful, in that now you can now sit down with the CNC engineer, when he gets back from his holidays and you both have something that you can point at. Together you will negotiate a workable compromise. Sure Del can advise you, but it is the guy that is going to do the job, that you need to speak to. His machine capabilities, skill and time constraints are what will determine what can and cannot be done. I have designed hundreds of machine parts as an aircraft engineer and parts for stamping as an automotive engineer. I consider myself fairly knowledgable, but I would never go beyond a rough draft before calling in the machinists representative, to negotiate the final design. With lots of experience you can get close, but they always change something. Some designers with throw in a tight radius, just to give the engineer something to pick on, of course I never do that! Dave

This may or not work. If I were going to try this, I would make an RTV mold, probably using the acetic acid curing RTV, as described by Husky. Have the nose of the worm close to the edge of the mold. Once cured, make three cuts for the treble, so that it can be pushed in from the nose. The RTV should be soft enough to close around the wire. Extra RTV could be added to reinforce, after the cuts are made. Then their is the problem of the sprue funnel. Maybe a separate insert or something. This is an idea that could be developed and refined further. If there is a solition, the members here will help you find it. Good luck and keep us informed. Dave