Vodkaman

Here's a link to Husky's excellent thread on RTV economy: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/9628-silicone-mold-makers-attn-musky-dan.html RTV is definately the way to go with your project. Here is another good link: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/15486-rtv-alternatives.html Husky is the man. Dave

No problem here either. This one lives in the back of my sofa. Probly about 20 lizards reside in my house. Dave

Jim, happy birthday. Hope you have a great day. Dave

In UK, cigarette ash is more expensive than the epoxy! Rp94,000 for pack of Marlborough. Dave

You can wear them, but for machining operations you should really be wearing the correct goggles. These can be a bit awkward with your regular glasses. The full face covers all quite comfortably. The main thing for me is the ventilation. Dave

I use a motorised fan venting full face mask. Not sure how good it would be for spraying, but for wood it is perfect. It keeps my face cool and dry in the tropical climate. With the half face mask, I was gurgling in a pool of sweat after 15 minutes. The cable and battery pack can be minor inconvenience, but a small price to pay for comfort. Also, I get to wear my regular spectacles. Dave

Here is a video of the double pin hinge in action: doublehingepin04.flv video by folicallychalled - Photobucket Dave

Great link Pete. That covers it all and answers wavewaters question in video. You can clearly see the forces that make the swimbait swim. Dave

LP, interesting thought. My thought is that the water forces move the individual segments, rather than the segments just following the one in front, but I am not going to bet more than a ringgit or two. Innitially, only the 4th segment was moving, but after some temporary re-modelling of the front section with some low density plasticine, which actually floats, I was able to get it to swim as desired. Your idea can be tested out by locking one end of the link, thus converting it into a single pin hinge. But first I will have to repair the MK1 after the damage of the pull test. I will get back with the results, not sure when. Dave

It is not just swimbaits, but all baits that rely on vortex shedding for the movement. A minimum speed is required before the vortex shedding occurs. Sometimes at very slow speeds, the swimbait looks like it is trying to swim. This is a transition speed, vortices are present, but have not organized into the regular pattern of a K

Thanks for the comments guys. Atrophius, barrel swivels would work. Just design the pin hole positions to achieve the required hinge gap. Also, because the swivel pitch is not adjustable, you will need to get the pin holes accurate. I was not accurate enough with this first attempt and had to insert another pin in the pin jig, to produce a slightly shorter link. Pete, not sure how comming in from the side would work. Here

Very funny vid. Actually, I was his fishing partner that day. I had been teching him to death with vortex theory all day. In the end he could not take it any more. Dave

Here are some pics of the pull test and tear down. Dave

This hinge is not revolutionary, but merely an extension of the

Being a techy, I like to follow the space shuttle progress. When the shuttle passes over head, it is actually visible with the naked eye as a bright star moving. Here are two links, the first one shows where the shuttle is relative to your ISP provider automatically: LIVE REAL TIME SATELLITE AND SPACE SHUTTLE TRACKING The second allows you to input your location, either by city or long

I think the first job is to make a mold of your face, using alginate. Then cast a positive in PoP (plaster of paris). Lots of options from this point, you could even make the entire mask, instead of bodging the standard mask (designed to fit all, but actually fits none). I wish you good luck with this project. Dave

Same principle as that one. Undecimalis post No12: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/homebrew-tools/15114-lure-make-machine-mdi_bizum-lures-2.html Dave

NOOOOO!!! Some things should just remain mysterious. Dave

Good one, that'll work. Thanks PS. Dave

For those of you who build baits for use in seawater. Float testing in tap water is unrealistic, especially if you plan to design close to neutral buoyancy or a slow sinker. The solution is to make your own seawater equivalent. This is done by dissolving 35gm of table salt per litre of tap water. This will give a specific gravity (sg) of approximately 1.025, the accepted average sg for sea water. This could be fine tuned with the use of a cheap hydrometer. Dave

I found this article on pecan: Pecan Wood Properties by Connected Lines Pecan is around the same density as beech and featherlite resin. The list of qualities seem quite favourable too. Could well be worth exploring. Dave

PS, it could work, but their are a few considerations. First the lathe stock must turn at the same speed as the master. As you feed the cutter into the stock, the tracer stylus is going to move in and out at the speed of the lathe. I don't know what the slowest speed of the lathe is, but 2 revs per sec or 120 revs per minute seems to be the maximum for this type of duplicator. I determined this by viewing all the other duplicators out there. Second. As each copy is made, at each end, the stock is reduced to a small diameter, I am planning on 6mm dia, this might have to be increased, but we will see. So, if your stock is 20" long, it would be like turning a 1/4" dia dowel, 20" long. It would flex under the load. It would be better if you could feed the stock through the chuck and keep the grinder near the chuck, but not sure if you can do that sort of thing. Yes, it has been considered as a next stage. It would be really nice to sell a couple hundred lures per month, this would mean that I don't need to go back to my office job. But if a major player comes to me and requests 10,000 pieces per month, I have a plan to accomodate. Now wouldn't that be nice. Most unlikely, but you never know.Dave

Yes, that would work, but rather labor intensive, here is a link to the very poor video: F-200 Video My aim is to insert the stock, start the machine off and return when finished. Maybe even operating three machines, so when the third machine is started, the first has finished. One can dream! Dave

Mine is designed to cut in both directions. When the carrier reaches the end stop, a microswitch automatically cuts the feed to the cutter and stops the travel motor and reverses it, ready for the next pass. On the reverse pass, the stock direction is reversed also, so the cutter is still correctly cutting (climb milling). As for the other part of the question, there are many ways to transfer the stylus movement to the cutter, but that is up to you. That is the design part, the invention part. Redg8r shows his method, so that is a starting point to get the brain working. Dave

A ferrocious animal, a chainsaw on a wheel. My brother used them on his chainsaw carvings to do the smaller detail. I don't think the finish would be good enough, but I will try one, if I do go the angle grinder route. Dave