Vodkaman

A re-circulating drying box with a lamp heater, like the PoP dryer project, would be a less brutal approach, but still efficient time wise. Increase the length of the box and enough timber to make a hundred bodies, could be dried in a few days. Dave

The time saving is nice, but it is more about repeatability and consistency between each lure body. Once you can produce identical bodies, the only variable will be wood density variations and that is manageable. Dave

I had no idea that Strasbourg was a holiday location. I'm there, the flight is booked! I'm always partial to a slice of cake, especially green. I believe in saving the planet. I believe that a new government white paper has been proposed, introducing a border control around Yorkshire. Not sure if passports are involved, but the international trading price of barbed wire has risen as a result. Dave

Of the duplicator machines published so far, are Redg8r

polishing the entrance to the mold could possibly make a difference. Less grip for the plastic plug, allowing it to be drawn into the mold as the plastic shrinks. Possibly combine the idea with a suitable lubricant. Sorry I cannot test this out for you, just an idea. Dave

What were they, bottle of gin and bottle of vodka? Very funny, I like the old jokes too. Dave

Clemmy, I could not find the article, but found several references. One mag that published the article was 'IN-FISHERMAN', reference link: Excellent article about lure reflection by Warren Zaren... Do you belong to a Fishing Club? Lake-Link: Beyond The Water - Fishing Wisconsin, Illinois, Minnesota, Michigan, Ohio, Iowa, Indiana, North Dakota and South Dakota! Wisconsin Fishing Club Limited In-Fisherman If you ever find the article, could you send me a copy. Dave

Sorry Goughy, I keep getting side tracked onto other projects. Also, had one or three problems, but I will get back to the dup project soon. Dave

Well, I am happy that you found the problem, but disappointed that is wasn't something techy. It does feel a bit foolish when the answer was so simple and I spent three hours googling static anomalies an Van Der Waal's effect. One day, I will get some glitter and experiment, it is on my list. Dave

Lol, I thought the water was a bit shallow. It is always nice to test with the real hooks, but I weigh out SS wire to the same as the hooks and use that for proto testing. Saves my fingers fitting and removing all the time. Dave

Hope you had a great day, happy birthday. Dave

Soooo real, especially the 2nd. Amazing, thanks JR. I like the tank setup too, especially the line through the tubing. Makes for short, clean and precise videos. Dave

BUT, don't forget Mom, she is the one that has to clean up after the artistic session. Swabbing very young skin down with acetone is not a good idea either.Dave

The mold materials commonly used are PoP (plaster of Paris), RTV (room temperature vulcanising rubber, DWP (Durhams watter putty), Bondo resin. Of the above, only RTV is a soft material. If you are casting hard plastic, then the mold really has to be RTV, otherwise you risk trapping your hard master or the cast in the mold. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/9628-silicone-mold-makers-attn-musky-dan.html this is a link to a Husky thread which covers the bases and more, of RTV molds. Custom Fishing Lures created with Feather Lite

If rubbing down the primer with 600 grit does not work, then maybe a chalky type paint over or instead of the primer. Something like household emulsion paint. It is a great idea involving the kids and I'm sure someone will come up with a good solution for you. Dave

Del. When I did the research, static was mentioned quite a lot. Also the Van Der Waal effect and two or three other mad chemist names. I gave up as it was 05:00 and I was getting a bit tired. Like you say, this is probably worth following up on. Another valid question would be, was salt used or not. I suspect not. Dave

It reads like you have been very clinical in your approach. So you could be correct, something wrong with your batch. It does not seem right that you should lose out on the deal. Contact the supplier and complain. Maybe do another test first, just to make sure. Dave

You state that this only happens sometimes. Call me crazy, but I am thinking electromagnetic effects. Are you pouring close to microwave while heating your next batch or operating some other equipment? When it happens, make a note of any equipment switched on. Where did you get the glitter? What type? Glitter is not magnetic, but it is subject to static. Strange things can happen around magnetic fields. But no one has ever mentioned this problem before. Dave

The blue tint disappears once the pellets have dissolved. Using the prop as a sealer, the color is not a factor. Dave

Also, don't be thinking that hinges have been exhausted. I am currently testing a new idea, soon to be posted. You need to use your imagination. In all fields of lure design, so much yet to be discovered. Dave

Gator, you are right on. What I pay for my cheap piece of ----, you get quality. It is extremely frustrating buying the bigger chunks of machinery here. But it all balances out in the end. They practically give wood away here. Albasiah, similar density to a dense balsa or light basswood, 12' x 3" x 2" $1.50. Lots of things I just cannot get here, D2T, etex, minwax, RTV, durhams etc. I just keep searching, but the language problem is holding me back. I can memorise 12 digit numbers, but words totally defeat me, so I talk a lot with my hands. Dave

Occasionally exploring the nitty gritty can come up with something useful, but basically I agree with Bob. I am a bad one for dragging simple subjects into the depths of obscurity. Dave

This is a link to a site I visited a few days ago, just before bottle caps came into the discussion. Bottle Cap Lure Company I did toy with the idea a couple of years ago, but did nothing about it. Diemai, I realised that you did not make the vid, but the fact that you latched on and posted it was enough to convince me that your mind is twisted Dave

It was going to be$6 per blade, if I just had a few blades made, but $2.50 per blade for having the entire raw blade length cut and welded. This worked out at about 25 blades of each (metal and wood). The blade provided with your new bandsaw is usually the cheapest possible grade. Mine snapped within a week. This could be down to inferior material or inexperience on my part. My second blade was still in use when the machine broke, after 4 months. It is not in constant heavy use though. The bandsaw was a Nesto table top N240BS. Just so you know what NOT to buy. When you do buy your bandsaw, it is important to read the manual and set it up correctly. Quite a few adjustments to be made BEFORE powering the thing up. It is embarrassing to aire my mistakes, but I do it so that you can learn from them. Dave

Blades are another important consideration. Make sure you can get replacements, don't assume. I could not get replacements for mine and had to get them custom made. Now I have 25 wood and 25 metal spares and no bandsaw. In fact, the blades cost more than the bandsaw. DUH! Dave