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Vodkaman

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Everything posted by Vodkaman

  1. I think the vents need to be further aft of the inlet. But I am looking forward to reading about the test results. Dave
  2. Borderbasser was the guy. He even mentioned the silicone problem, probably why it stuck in my mind. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/14112-epoxy-tip-ya.html Thanks Borderbasser. Dave
  3. Gator, thanks for the feedback. Without it, we have no idea what works and what doesn't. A large percentage of "having trouble" threads, collect a lot of great ideas, but because of the lack of feedback, the information remains inconclusive. Dave
  4. I could see problems with the shaking, but it gave me an idea. If a small dia tube was inserted through a hole in the lid. You could blow in the jar and obtain a good spread of the glitter, depending on how much you add. May only require the tip of a teaspoon handle to get the desired effect. When done, the unused glitter is contained in the jar, so no mess. It is a bit like the powder painting idea. At the same time, the bait isn't rattling against the sides and glittering up the jar. Do NOT suck! Dave
  5. You have to work out how much money you want per pack or what ever, along with the cost to manufacture the pack including packaging etc, how much has to be set aside for Mr taxman and finally, how much the retailer wants. Then calculate the figure that balances the equation. The above is for small time. If you are going BIG time, you will also need to factor in utility bills, protective clothing, tools, wear and tear etc. If the retail price cannot support all the above, then it is not worth doing. Dave
  6. With all that crud on the top, it sounds like you are not doing the fluxing thing. Have you read the sticky at the top of the wire baits forum? This may solve all your problems, including the sticking pin. Read Sagacious's posts in the sticky. Dave
  7. I read a web article the other day on how sensitive the sense of small is for fish, so Nova is making a valid point. Pam oil spray over the clay master should solve the smooth issues, but really it is all about the mold sealing operation, to get the glassy finish. be it elmers or epoxy. Dave
  8. Actually, I have been thinking about how this is going to be tested from day one. My thought is a smear of silicone glue around the inlet and fix some instant coffee grains, for a bath tub test. Video if available, so you don't have to keep repeating the test. I was thinking of potassium permanganate chrystals, but these might stain your bath purple along with your angry wifes face. Dave
  9. With a set up similar to yours, it takes me about 20 minutes. That is from cutting a blank, pasting a template, cutting profile, cut lip, mark centre line around profile (essential), drilling and shaping. I drill all my ballast and eye holes before moving to the belt sander for shaping. The secret to symmetry, is the centre line and remove small amounts of material from one side then the other, then check symmetry and adjust, before making the next cut. All my shaping is done on the belt sander. The first operation are the length ways tapers. Then deep chamfers all round. Then rounding off. I usually finish off with a flap wheel on the drill press. Dave
  10. Jamie, my youngest son (20) and his buddy are comming to visit me in Bandung in June, for 4 weeks. I am already having disturbung dreams about keeping up with them on the town every night, house full of strange women every morning. And who's going to cook? Kids that age eat about nine times a day! At least we have the staple foods here, MacDonalds, KFC, Pizza hut and Wendy's. I will try to train them to sweep and mop, but not going to hold my breath on that one. Will probably hire a maid. Will have to buy another fridge too and a TV. My house life is set up in my bedroom (office, TV, proto table, parts storage etc). Seriously thinking of just putting them in a cheap hotel. Dave
  11. There was a wierd looking hardbait on flea bay a few weeks ago, sorry I don't have a pic. It professed to be old, but KcDano, who sent me the link, was not convinced. It had a flapping tail, driven from a nose spinner with a connecting drive shaft. The soldering of the brass parts was pitiful, in fact criminally so! It went for $1016. WOW, someone got bargain and it wasn't the buyer. Dave
  12. Definately not an open flame, plastic is highly flamable. Also, scorching will be a big problem, as you mentioned. Why not get a cheap microwave and an extension cable. Nothing wrong with using the microwave outside, as long as the weather is OK. Dave
  13. Glad to hear it, that is a good result. Dave
  14. Well you might as well try a paint stripper, rather than just bin the mold. The question will remain as to transfer of smells etc, but a good seal coat, like thinned epoxy should take care of that. Up to you, but it might not be worth the effort. Dave
  15. Happy birthday Jamie. I think I was 37 once, but cannot remember that far back. Dave
  16. Compressors are discussed here on TU virtually every week. I did a search on ps900 compressor and came up with 5 links, another search on compressor revealed 193 links. Here's one to get you started. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/16239-ps900-compressor.html Enjoy your reading. Dave
  17. Jig man, you never really explained what the problem was, flash or incomplete pour. I am deducing incomplete. Maybe a photo might help. Red hot lead is not the solution. Maybe it is the lead alloy composition, try a purer lead. You have been around enough to know abou fluxing, so I assume that this is not the problem. With the mold and hooks hot, try a much cooler pour (fluxed). Does it pour without the hooks? Are the hooks clean? Does it pour OK with pure lead? Dave
  18. Chris, that is good thinking, but I don't think you are improving things. The salt laden plastic is still going to be forced under the silicone. If not, then the silicone pad is going to be rubbing against the pot surface. Flouring the salt is about the best you can do. leave a small gap. Dave
  19. I have no respect for plagiarism. Taking an existing bait and changing it just a little, is NOT original. Posting a request for help, taking the ideas and going secret is stealing ideas. I have absolutely no respect for those who change a little of someone elses design and make money on it. This seems to be the opposite of your philosophy, you only have respect for copy artists. I have read your last post 50 times and cannot arrive at any other conclusion. I am sorry I ever posted to this thread. Maybe you made a mistake and got your wording wrong. God, I hope so. I take solace in the fact that information already made public cannot be patented. People share information freely on this helpful site, maybe too freely at times. I don't give all my ideas away, just those that I do not plan to use. I don't like your attitude at all. Dave
  20. You just gotta keep 'em in the dark. Never leave your tackle box open. The sun is the enemy. If your tackle box has a clear lid, throw your jacket over it, or keep it in the shade. Dave
  21. Baik baik. Never seen star wars, but Google is a powerful tool. So where are you from really? My guess would be Malaysia. Dave
  22. Very amusing. Welcome to TU. I'm confident you will find everything you will ever need here on TU. For example, check out this thread that was posted today, particularly post No2. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/16575-vacuum-former.html Dave
  23. Well 16Lb foam is supposed to be light, this converts to specific gravity 0.25 (water = 1.00), which is just slightly heavier than a dense balsa. Dave
  24. Tman2, I do believe you are correct. Re-examining the photo, The front edge appears to be curved to improve the over hang. Well, if it aint broke, don't fix it. If it ever does start to sag, you have a solution ready. Dave
  25. My first thought was polystyrene sheets. Then hot wiring slots that the lure sit in. Then slots in both sides, so that the thick sheets could be stacked. Then why not make a mold box, using broom handle cut in half on a bandsaw as the slot molds, screwed into the mold box. Cast the lure trays with 2Lb cavity wall insulation foam. They could be painted or covered in felt to make them presentable, if that was your intention. Dave
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