Vodkaman

You really have to think about how the spot got there and analyse why it is still there? According to Darwinian theory, the spot would originally have been a mutation of the genes or accident of nature. If the spot was a disadvantage in the survival of the fish, then the spotted fish would not survive to breed. The fact that the spot is fairly common amongst fish species, proves that the spot aids the fishes survival. Next, what purpose does the spot serve? (a) It could either help the fish swim, (b)aid reproduction by attracting a mate, © it repels its predators. Chances are that it is a combination of ( and ©. Because it is is successful at repelling predators, it becomes an attractive feature for a mate. So, does it work by making the predator think that the bait is too large and scare the attacker away, or does it make the predator miss, by thinking the bait is larger than it thought and misses with the bite attack. Either way, nature tells us that it is a successful ploy, so we have to ask, is a spot a good idea at all. Just food for thought. Dave

Birthday felicitations Bear. Do you get extra presents, or do the family cheat and combine them for Christmas as well? Dave

You will notice that most of the rising bubble problem, only exists on the first half mold. This is because the second half was bottom poured, so the bubbles rise away from the working surface. It is a good idea to keep this first mold as the master and never use it for pouring. From this, pour a new half. From this new half, pour a second half. Pro's solution is very important too, eliminating the edge bubbles, shown in your second half pour. Dave

Very good site, clear and very fast pages. The pics are very clear, yet the pixel count is small enough to keep the speed up. Dave

I solved the inconsistency by changing over to weight measurements. I weigh the plaster and water using a gram scale, the mix ratio for me being 5:4 plaster/water. The plaster edge will always turn up, unless you place the master in very late. But this can be difficult to time, impossible if you are making multi cavity molds. It is best to just accept the meniscus. After thoroughly drying the mold, remove the raised edges with a sheet of 300 grit emery paper, placed on a flat surface. The grit will clog and need cleaning several times, I find that air from the compressor is the easiest way to achieve this. Do not try the sanding process unless the mold is fully dried (30% - 35% of the demold weight). This flattened mold face will give a crisp mold line for future molds. It is a good idea to keep this first half and only use it for making new molds, using the 'new' mold to mold the second half. One reason for this, apart from not having to float the master again, is that all future molds will be bottom poured, thus eliminating the bubble problem, after a few taps etc. Dave

Jim, I don't understand. For me, PoP is the easiest medium to work with. Maybe you should give us a run down of your method and what the problem is. You are going to have the same problems with DWP. Dave

Your friendly and generous attitude towards sharing quality ideas and information has no doubt tipped many a prospective lure builder over the edge and into the abyss of our world. Can't wait to see what you have for us all in the next year. Hope you have a special day. Dave

Diemai has pretty well covered all the options. The only one remaining is to move the ballast forward. This is only practical on a new build. Did you mount your ballast as low as possible. Dave

Welcome to TU AhmedWali. I tried your links. Two of the links were pay sites. One didn't work and the other linked me up to screw fix, a tool shop with no duplicator machines. Links are better if they take you directly to the object in question, directly, without further searches being required. Dave

2008 brought out a lot of good ideas and innovation. Could even call 2008, the year of the jointed swimbait. True, the swimbait is not new, but a lot of progress was made into construction techniques and understanding how it works. Many thanks to all those who unselfishly contributed their new techniques, research and ideas to the TU community. I'm looking forward to seeing what 2009 will bring. Any predictions? Happy holidays All. Dave

A-mac, if you go to Palmettos classified, he covers the top coat clarity issue. I could have PM'd this, but it is good information for everyone considering prop pellets. Dave

Yes, it is possible to calculate everything regarding buoyancy and ballast. But this is very involved and a lot of work. As long as you are not aiming for neutral buoyancy, it is not necessary. I am anticipating the same problems as the wood that I use can vary in density from 0.2 to 0.4gm/cm3. So my plan is to weigh the blanks and group them into like weighted containers. Once the ballast requirements are established once for each weight, no further testing should be necessary, other than quality testing the final lure before shipping. Also, if you know the ballast for a 5gm body and a 7gm body, it is easy to estimate the ballast for a 6gm body, as the differences vary in a linear fashion. You could even draw a simple graph. Essential kit is an accurate gram scale and a note book. Dave

Air drying PoP can take a week to ten days, even in a warm enviroment, although it may be usable before fully dried. Build a temporary shelf for behind the freezer in the kitchen. Place the molds next to the hot part. This will dry the molds six times faster. Not just the heat, but their will be a continuous updraft flowing past the mold which greatly assists the drying process. Dave

Anything other than a thin coat of regular one part silicone, is going to take forever to set. Dave

I prefer the scales method, it is more accurate. When I used RTV, the weight ratio was on the label (116:100). So I would to as downriver suggests and request the information. Dave

I'm in UK for six weeks. But timing is irrelevant, everyone knows that I cannot explain things clearly. We need more ideas on this one. One of the duplicator videos showed briefly, a cradle with screw heads, to locate the body. Easily adjustable. Could be an efficient solution. Dave

The simplest way is to cut section and profile plates. Keep the first body (or the next body) for direct comparison when carving. Dave

Man!! it took me 20 lines to say the same thing. Mark, I'm sending you all my posts for editing from now on. Dave

If the blanks are bought, then they will all be the same size, so some kind of former would work. I intend to make my blanks with a duplicator, so in a few months I will be in the same dilemma as you. My plan is to make some molded cradles, using a mix of polyester filler and resin to make it pour able. It is very cheap and sets up hard and quick. My plan is to make a wooden mold box only slightly larger than the body. I will take great care to cut a lip slot in the lure body, this may take a few attempts to get it perfect. I will then fit a balsa lip, square, so that it touches the side of the mold box. Wax up the box and body, pour the resin mix and push the lipped body, nose first into the resin, so that the lip is square to the box and the bottom edge of the lip touching the side. Taking care not to push the body too far in, or it will be locked and very difficult to remove. On a belt sander, remove material from the bottom lip side, until the balsa is visible. Offer it up to a squared band saw, if the angle of the lip is slightly off, the cast block can be adjusted on a belt sander, until square. This operation will be made easier if four feet are molded into the casting, by drilling 4 x

Yes, rather flippant of me. In fact I understand more than you think. I played in brass bands for 30 years, as a cornet player. We were hired to play a cricket match once, Bothams 11 vs Boycotts 11. Typical English somer afternoon, tea and scones thing. Half way through the first piece, the cricket stopped and the players stood and watched the band. We thought there was a problem, but we carried on and finished the piece anyway. The players and croud, vigorously applauded then the match resumed. It is all about communicating emotion. Battle hymn certainly does that. Dave

When I used to fish with real worms, I injected air in the tail with a hypodermic needle. Maybe this would work with plastics. Could be worth a try. Dave

Something wrong with my computer, played it three times and could not find the punch line. Dave

I feel for you all. Im am in UK at the moment. Not as cold as your place, but after Indonesia, I am freezing my hind quarters off, 'darn' cold here. Dave

You just gotta stop the water getting into the wood. Don't forget, the test results will be meaningless unless you fit the hooks and split rings. Even the top coat will make a difference. So, the only way to do the job properly, is to do what BobP suggests: Finish the lure, then mess about with your ballast. You will only have to do this with the first bait, when you make the same bait again, you already have the information. Dave

I am only making small bodies, around 3.5". The reason for using a light wood like balsa, is generally to maximise the action, otherwise you might as well use a stronger, denser wood. If you spread the weight around on a balsa body, you are cancelling out the qualities that a buoyant material gives you. The idea is to get the ballast at the pivot point of the action. So, my ballast can really only go in one place, the belly hanger. So I drill holes just in front and just rear of the belly hanger, then seal the body. Then I can just vary the amount of lead in each hole to find what I want. Yes, sealing before testing is essential. Dave