Vodkaman

Rob, it is hard to advise without knowing what you edit your photos with. Before uploading to a picture hosting service, I use photoshop and do a 'save for web' under the file function. This automatically prepares a suitable pic for the web, reducing the file size and still maintaining reasonable pic quality. Dave

Nightbite, I am sure the problem has nothing to do with the hinges. Pictures might help, but two things that I can think of that might cause your problem are: 1. side profile too symmetrical top tto bottom. Solution, rig up a temporary tow eye slightly higher or lower. 2. nose section too streamlined. Solution, add some bulk to the front edge of the top edge of the body. Use modelling clay for a temporary test. Keep in mind that swimbaits are vortex driven and will not operate below a minimum speed. This speed depends on the shape design. Here we are all still learning. I am sure many more ideas will be aired here. I suggest you try as many as possible, starting with the least invasive. Don't forget to report back with your findings. Dave

Thanks for the pics Rofish and Palmetto. 20 coats is a bit scary, but still planning this route. Dave

I used Bobs method, but instead of gluing, I pinned the two halves together,using 3mm BBQ or satay sticks. after shaping, the two halves simply pull apart. After fitting the ballast and hanger, the two halves are hard glued. Dave

For clogged sand paper or emery cloth, I use a blast of air from the compressor. Works a treat, ready to go again in seconds. Dave

If you are really looking for consistency, then a painters viscosity cup would help control the mix. But as stated above, is it really necessary. I am considering using prop as a top coat as well as a seal coat. Can anyone post a pic of both side by side, so we can see and compare? I mean a D2T or etex top coat next to a prop top coat. Dave

This is a very informative thread, learning lots here. The tail problem could be solved by brushing some petroleum jelly on the fibres. This should solve the capillary action. Like a lot of my ideas, untested, but I am confident. Once the top coat is fully cured, the jelly can be cleaned off with a little solvent or even soapy water. If the tail is too bushy, even this might not work though. Just an idea to throw out there. Dave

Did you pour it or machine it? Dave

Sounds like you have a good team going there. Welcome to TU. Dave

I know very little about ventilation, but I would have thought a dust filter would be more successful. A charcoal filter is more about smells etc. The particles of paint are just going to pass by. I could be way off base with this, just makes more sense to me. Dave

Matt. I would like to use fibreglass resin as a sealer too. It is rock hard, perfect for balsa and is very cheap too. I have been sealing prototypes with it, so they really don't get tested out properly. My concern is the water proof issue. Someone raised the question a while back, so I did a web search. Boat builders that use it, seal the outside to waterproof and protect the fibreglass resin, using epoxy resin. If your top coat holds, then it would be fine, but if the top coat is breached and the resin is exposed to damp over a long period of time, it could be a problem. But your paint would have peeled off by then. I too would like to know if anyone out there uses it to seal, as I would also like to use it for sealing and fixing my twisted wire eyes in. Dave

Featherlite, is really not that light. Yes, it floats, it's density is 0.67g/cm3. Here is Smooth-ons data sheet. http://tb.smodev.com/tb/uploads/Feather_Lite.pdf Woods that have a similar density are; beech, birch, elm, oak. So really not exactly 'feather' light, but regular resin is heavier than water and will sink. Here is a link to wood densities, for your interest. PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF COMMON WOODS This was discussed very recently, just did a quick search and found this thread. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/14935-allumilte-feather-lite.html Dave

I agree with mark, it is an all round winner. But take care, especially with lighter woods when sanding. The resin is very hard and if you just wrap a piece of emery around your bait, the wood will disappear faster than the resin. Be selective in how you sand it, pay attention. Dave

As mentioned by Del, it is a question of thermal conductivity. Only two metals conduct heat faster, those are copper and gold. Plaster is just about the opposite. It is a good insulator, so the plaster does not soak up the heat of the plastic. The down side is that you have to wait much longer before opening the mold to retrieve your cast. Thermal Conductivity of some common Materials link to thermal conductivity of different materials. Aluminum 250, plaster 0.48. huge diference. Don't you just love science. Dave

Still don't know where 'home' is, why such a secret. Dave

The change in the geometry has significantly reduced the roll of the head. I agreee a lot more realistic swim. Shock! so who is the guy in the avatar? Dave

I am a deep kinda person. My mistake. Sorry for kneeling on your neck so hard. Dave

Huh! Bet I can make a science of it. A pound coin weighs 9.5 grams, therefore 3 coins weighs 28.5 grams. This is very close to an ounce. Just make a very simple balance. 3 coins one side and the pellets on the other. Well, still not an exact science, but a simple solution. Ah, but I don't know where you live. I am assuming UK as that is where 'my home' is. Dave

Matt. I did notice the holes, they look about right, compared to what others are doing. 3.5ozs just doesn't sound right, was that a guess? Looks more like 2ozs for the completed lure, but I am only guessing too. You may not need weight in the tail, as you have used two hinges. Many I have noticed, using a single eye in the tail, this would probably need lead to keep the tail straight. I guess the bristles thing is a case of comming up with a routine that works for you. A few more tails and you will have it sorted. Being left brained means I am very organised, I have routines for everything. Working with solvent based materials, usually means having a piece of kitchen roll soaked in acetone, ready for wiping my fingers on. Dave

Looking good Matt. You have more patience than I. Good luck with the ballast, doesn't appear to be a lot of room, especially in the blue gill. I guess a trench along the bottom and lay the lead as a strip. Don't forget to seal against water and test for the lead weight and position externally, before cutting, but I am sure you are on top of things and have a good plan. Dave

A smiley is not going to save you from that statement, I'm a little offended. I must have re-read this post 20 times, trying to find the humor, but failed. I agree with RL, you really didn't give us much of a chance, but I have made this mistake in the past too and took heat, so now it is your turn. I am glad you solved your own problem, but the subsequent, late answers are not wasted. In the future, someone will do a search and find these answers. Dave

A-Mac, I really liked the machine. Although I wouldn't make one myself for cutting bodies, it has given me an idea for cutting lips. Dave

Blast the edge of the pour with a jet of air from your compressor. It will pop out in a second or two. Be ready to catch it! Dave

That is scary, she did that top lure with a brush! When I tried using a brush, it looked like a six year old had been messing about. That is really cool. You should get her a quality airbrush for Xmas. Kind of a selfish gift, but she might enjoy it. Maybe a bunch of flowers and a night out to go with it. All tax deductable too, if you sell them. Dave

Finlander. Yes, this is my fourth country since I joined TU, 2 Years ago. Sweden, England, Malaysia and now Indonesia. I've just invested a large amount of cash on tools, so plan on being here for a couple of years. Good luck with the saw blades. Dave