Vodkaman

Many people are of the opinion that it has all been done before. But I maintain the opinion that there is a lot more out there to be discovered. Respect to Pete and Diemai and anyone else that displays an ounce or two of originality.

Pete, I reallt like it. When I started exploring the hunting action, I experimented with double lips, but not in the configuration that you are showing. I put both lips parallel, one front and one rear. Even tried the rear lip on the back of the body. Never got it to do what I wanted though, but the action was plentiful. I will re-visit the idea one day, as I have learned a lot since then. Even 25 years ago, you refused to sit and think in the box. Dave

How did the top coat stand up to the tooth? Great pic. Dave

Great job Jim, congrats, good result.

The member submitted tutorials has a few tutorials on the subject. Do you plan to use plaster of paris or RTV? I did an advanced search on 'piece mold' for the 'soft plastics' forum. It came up with 275 replies, so didn't help much, too much reading. I then searched on 'making piece mold pop vent', this produced 3 replies. Still probably not what you are looking for. The best way to go about it is to read some, then search on specific words for more detailed information. But the tutorials section has everything you need in one package. If you cannot find any specific information, then post a question. You will get far more response that way. Answering how to make a 2 pc mold could take hours, answering a specific question, only minutes. Hope this helps. Read some and ask away. Dave

What do you plan to use it for? It reads like a latex type product, but it is a 2 part, so is a very soft RTV. Probably would make a good one piece mold, allowing you to make almost round sections and still allowing you to remove the casting. Might be too stiff for a bait, but only a test will give you the answer. Also, a long time to wait for a bait to cure. Keep us informed. I forgot to check the price. Dave

Resin releases from RTV molds without too much fuss. I usually add a smear of petroleum gel, but even when I forget, sticking is minimal. The density of resin is about 1.2, so it is only just heavier than water, this might be an issue for you. But this will be true for all plastics, unless they are mixed with something heavier, maybe tungsten powder, don't know where you'll get it though. I suggest you tie a lump of plastic on and try it first, before getting too involved. I know the resin can be colored, again craft shops that deal with molding products (chess pieces etc) will be able to help. Try a google search on coloring resins. Maybe others will be able to help with other kinds of hard plastic, I've only experienced polyester resins. Good luck and post your results, good or bad, so others my benefit from your experience. Dave

RobRaven, maybe a pic would help stir up some ideas. Dave

Resin might work, if the mold seals well, if not, it will run out all over your bench, so best put some plastic sheet down first. Resin is a bit on the brittle side, but quite cheap. Fibreglass resin (polyester) has a purple tint to it,I pay $3 per litre. It is possible to get a clear, colorless resin, but it is much more expensive. Try craft shops. The resins used by the hard baits boys (alumilite) might be less brittle, not too sure. But for small jig heads, I doubt that the brittleness will be a problem. Try a search. What type of plastic are you planning to use? Dave

No problem Pete, thanks once again to everyone. I did behave myself, even arrived home early (early in the morning). No cranial damage done. Dave

I weigh my mold before going into the oven. I then aim for a 30% weight loss in the drying process. I remove the mold at intervals to weigh and monitor progress. Over cooking will make the mold brittle and powdery, rendering the mold useless. Would be a shame to ruin the mold at this stage, so I believe the extra work is well worth it. I can see a few heads shaking, but I cannot help myself, it is the engineer in me. After a few molds, you get a feel for how long to cook the mold anyway. Dave

MT, a bamboo fly rod! Now that is art. I found a materials supplier for you.

A spur point bit or a forstner bit. http://diydata.com/tool/drillbits/drillbits.php When people refer to a forstner, I believe they are referring to the spur point bit. Go for quality and keep 'em sharp. The above link explains all. Dave

Hi Ellie, welcome to TU. I only know about lipped cranks, but would love to see a pic. Lots of experts here, I'm sure you will get the help you need. Dave

Bruce, I'm just waiting for the lake to freeze over, so I can try the ice rod that my brother bought me. Lots of projects on the go here. Once I get this computer table finished and installed, the next project is a duplicator. Dave

Thad, I think your argument holds up for a moisture cure urethane, like DN. Are you sure your friend was using a 2 part epoxy and not a moisture cure jobby.

The reason a swimbait does a 180 deg turn, is that when you 'twitch' it and stop, a big vortex is thrown over one side of the back of the lure. Because the bait is not moving forward, the vortex stays in contact with the lure and keeps pushing on the tail, forcing the bait to turn around. My guess is that it would turn with lip, but may not be strong enough to make 180. To be honest, I can make an argument for and against and would be very interested in the result of this experiment, to refine my swimbait theory. Will the lure swim without the lip?

PhilB, you were right, big grin here.

MT. That is how you know you are addicted! (now where was that wine shop?)

Thankyou gents, you are so kind. Just got back from the bar. Had a really enjoyable nite. A few beers (no vodka), a few friends around me and kicked some on the pool table. It doesn't get better than that. Dave

Happy birthday to you both. Have a great day.

Look at all the foam on the surface, it really tore up the place! Great fish, great photograph too (Star filter as a lens protector?).

Maybe there is someone within driving distance of your location that you could spend an hour with and see both types of mold. This would make the decision a bit easier. Also there are two types of commercially available mold materials, aluminum (expensive) and RTV (rubber, cheaper). Both get the job done, aly lasts a lifetime and holds much of its value for re-sale. You could really get stuck in and make your own molds. PoP (plaster of Paris) is very cheap and will make an excellent one piece, with only a little practise, 2 piece molds also, with a little more practice. RTV is also very easy to work with, just a little more expensive, but less hassle than PoP, as it does not require sealing etc. Lots of options that will keep you awake at night and lots of reading to do. Good luck with your new venture. Dave

I found a small material store the other day and bought 2 meters of a plain hexagon mesh material for $2. It feels a bit stiff as new, but a few washing machine cycles should solve that problem. That maybe all that is required to loosen up the tulle material. Dave

All you guys are true designers, very enjoyable and innovative creations. Diemai, I did a few experiments with double lipped lures and can see how the duckbilled fattypus lure would have a good action (black pregnant lure). The only thing missing from this thread is some video of bananas and some of the monsters too. Dave