Vodkaman

Pikester. Yes, it has been done before, but it is still a goo idea. Here is a link to the discussion. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/10022-how-make-hollow-body-lure-bead-inside.html There are quite a few discussions on rattles, all worth reading. Check out Cheeseheads glass rattle tutorial. As BobP stated, glass is good because of its resilience, it will give a good 'ping'. You really need to ask the fish which they prefer. When I experimented with rattles, I mounted mine across rather than lengthways, as this is the direction of the movement. This has been mentioned earlier in this thread, also making a kill spot to disguise the construction (I though it was my idea, but someone got there way before me).

Post some pics if you get a chance. Enjoy the trip.

Over the last year, I have concentrated my efforts investigating the hunting phenomenom. This is a vid of progress I have made since my last video post, a few months ago. I cannot show any details yet, as more work still has to be done. I believe that there is a lot more action available than shown here.

I guess you get to put your feet up and relax today. Happy birthday Jerry.

I saw a guy in a bar, knock a glass of some flaming shot over his lap. The sight of him beating the flames out with such gusto, scarred me for life.

My choice is the square one. The length looks good, but depends on where you place the tow eye.

It is a CAD program called CATIA V5. It is the first time I have modelled a body to completion. I am very pleased with the result. This one was drawn just for an exercise, I normally only use the program for lip and body profiles.

This is a picture of the larger profile after shaping. The casting weight reduces to 60gm or 2.1ozs.

Using the bottom of a can is not a new idea. But I have found that cans made as one piece moldings ie rimless are very good. I use them for epoxy and mixing small batches of paint, zero waste and easy to clean. I cut them back as shown in the pic and lightly soll the sharp edge over with a hammer. You can make half a dozen in 15 minutes. Cans from coffee or milo drinks work best, with the smaller diameter.

Try a flat bottomed lip, wider than usual. Round bottomed lips will not hunt, according to my theories and experience. Also, keep the lip angle steep, as for a shallow runner (only because I have not built any deep diving hunters yet). This, as BobP mentioned, is only half the story. The density of the body, the vertical distribution of the ballast and the width of the lip, all play a part in the hunter equation. I don't find it as difficult as some people make it out to be, but don't expect it to work first time. Another thing, do your testing with hardware and top coat. Because it is a fine balance, the addition of the hardware is enough to throw the balance off. Once the combination is arrived at, I find that reproducing the hunt is not a problem. I'll try to take a video of my current lure in action over the weekend, it depends how many people are using my lure testing facility, I keep catching kids swimming in it. As for the brass wire, I only use soft stainless steel 0.031" diameter. Good luck, and post your findings and results.

2.5ozs is 70gm. With 10% buoyancy, this means a body volume of 77gm/cm3 is required for a casting weight of 70gm. I experimented with a computer model I have. Probably not the right shape, but will give you an idea of requirements. I have just cut a simple fillet rad around the edges, not pretty, but if you cut more fancy curves, you will be reducing the volume further. This picture shows a body of dimensions: length 125mm, depth 40mm, thickness 20mm. Its casting weight is 44g or just over 1.5ozs. To achieve 2.5ozs casting weight, the required body dimensions are: length 125, depth 49mm, thickness 25mm.

Here is an opportunity to compare the difference between a boiling water burn and a plastic burn. I did mine 10 days ago. I was pouring 1.5 liters of coffee through a sieve. The water ran round the curved sieve and then leapt out over my hand. Like all accidents it was stupid, bordering on comical. So how is your middle finger healing?

Wasn't super glue deeloped for medics in the Vietnam war. It would take a brave man to apply it to a raw burn though.

Brass wire is not going to give you a hunting action. True, a few years ago, this was considered to be the case, but I think it was just a coincidence.

Mr Devil. I am on my knees while typing this post and bowing at the same time! I have seen that screen before, but the chances of me finding it without assistance would have been microscopic. Thankyou.

Every page I view on the web, I have to click off this ActiveX message: "Do you want to allow ActiveX controls and plug-ins to run". I am really hoping that one of you guru's will let me know how to switch the thing off and save my sanity (many say it is too late anyway, regarding my sanity).

Nice shapes. It would probably be prudent to take one of each shape to the next stage for testing. This one should be written off in your mind, as you may have to cut, drill and hack to get the best out of it. After successful tests, a top coat should be added with hardware, to check that everything still works (strange things can happen!), then finish the rest with confidence.

I quite like the shape too! Not quite the same, but close enough. This is stuff that I was preparing for the TU meet. In the box a bunch of prototypes that I was going to give a talk on, taking advantage of the hotel test tank, the bodies on the right were to be hand outs for fishing. There is something about this shape, you just want to pick it up. I am searching for some inspiration to start work on them again.

It's probably been stuck in there for many years, Glad that you were able to set it free. Hope it hatches out into a BIG bass for you.

Mark. The short answer is no. The water around the lure acts as a 'system', each part affecting the rest. The flow balances out, like an equilibrium. It won’t allow separate, independent vortices to form unless it fits in with the system. This vague paragraph is clarified by the next. I tried something similar when I was trying to figure out how hunting works. I fitted two lips, one at the front and one towards the rear. Each lip was a different width. The theory was that the different widths would generate vortices at different speeds. At certain intervals, the two vortices would be pulling in the same direction (in phase), later they would be pulling in opposite directions. I was hoping for a really erratic swim with some crazy zig-zag action going on. The bait had a good strong action, but it was regular, like there was only one lip. The vortex at the rear lip was affected by the vortex from the front lip and so both lips worked at the same speed. Obviously, the vortices are not visible, so I am only theorizing (guessing) as to what is happening. Good thinking though. I only experimented on this idea with half a dozen variations and by no means covered all the bases, so don’t allow my negative answer dissuade you from experimenting further.

I like the lure testing tank in the last pic. Many thanks.

All the very best to you, on your birthday.

Nice bait and good read. There is a lot to learn from reading the water. Some people seem to have a sixth sense, but it usually comes down to common sense.

I too like to keep an open mind with body shapes. But it usually comes down to practicallities with me. Every part of the lure has a reason or explanation behind it. I only do lipped lures at the moment, so the nose has to have enough body to support a lip. Enough depth at the thickest part to hang the ballast low, this gives good vertical stability, the thickest part positioned where I want the ballast. A thin tail to minimise the resistance to movement from inertia and resistance due to area. I then shape the body profile around these design parameters to get a nice tactile shape. Having gone through this thought process, I usuall end up with the shape that most others have already arrived at before me. having said all that, all your shapes pretty much fill the bill. I like the third one down. I have thought about using the body shape as a weed guard, similar to number 3, mounting the hook behind the deepest part of the body. Once you have built them all, you should report back with any differences in swim action.

Don, talking about the centre section. I notice that you have introduced a radius at each end. This is good design, as a sharp corner would introduce a weak point.