Vodkaman

Micro balloons are the same thing, the alumilite is different. But please go ahead and do the test, the information would be useful. Thanks.

This mixing problem comes up quite often, it is obviously a common problem. I would not relish the thought of having to shake up a gallon container, a vertually impossible task as the container is full! The high volume pourers are playing with much larger consignments. If this problem was mine, I would make a slow turning mount (45 degrees), could be capable of turning two or three containers at a time. These could be run on a timer in preparation for a pouring session, ball bearings or something suitable to promote the mixing. If this does not work then shaking a container for 5 minutes has got no chance.

I have been working with polyester resin with microspheres for my lure bodies. My problem is that I am not achieving the density that I want. The best that I can get is 0.75 (water = 1.00), but this mix is like mustard and has to be injected, giving air bubble problems. I am asking for one or two of you guys that are using this technique, to take a couple of measurements for me. Take a plain body cast (no lips, hangers, paint etc), any size. using cotton thread, tie on lead (must be lead) until the body just suspends. Weigh the body Weigh the lead PM or post the results with a description of how you measure out the resin and microspheres. From this information I can calculate the density that you are achieving and compare it to mine. I suspect that I have managed to procure a very large bag of the wrong stuff! Many thanks in anticipation of your help.

Someone posted recently that they scrape the epoxy mix onto a second mixing surface and stir again. This eliminates the possibility of picking up unmixed epoxy, especially if you are cutting the mix volume fine and have to scrape the last bit off the plate. Waiting 24 hours to see if the process has worked is way too stressful to take chances. Overkill is good, either that or valium! Keep your mixing plate for testing the setting progress. After 12 hours the surface will feel hard. Resist the temptation to run your fingers over your creation until a full 24hrs (or longer) has elapsed. If you handle too soon, the surface will lose its glassy clarity, presumably the acids in your skin reacting with the incomplete cure.

I'm sure Pete will present a technique to do the same with 1/16" lexan, dip in hot fat and form. Novel idea for the press, got me thinking, thanks.

Once you add the top coat and hooks, it will swim different again. But this time you will at least be close to the solution. A few more minor adjustments and you'll be ready for the mass production run.

Ahh, now I get you, sorry about the confusion. I guess I'll have to check the gallery out, it is not somewhere I generally travel.

If the lip works, leave it. The weight distribution looks good. You could experiment with the centre weight, moving it up and down and note its effect. The lure looks very nice.

The density of epoxy is around 1.2 so some kind of lightening process would be required, maybe silicone micro spheres.

All kinds of discussions could eminate from your request, which is probably why no one has answered your question yet. If I was linking to my own work, I could see no wrong. But if I wanted to link to someone elses work, I would contact them for permission. It is possible that TU management team have an opinion on such actions, Redg8r?

My concern is the thickness of the lip material on the very small bodies. Because of the lips relatively large mass compared to the body, it could have a damping affect on the action. Don't change it now, it is just something that you can try and compare on future bodies if you are not satisfied with the action.

From what I have read, lipless swimbaits can be a bit hit and miss. My suggestion is to accept that some testing and adjusting will be necessary. Do your carving quick and rough for the first one and seal it against water, NO PAINT or finish. Fit your ballast and hook hanger and swim it. At this stage report back with pics, whether you have a problem or not as we would like to whitness your progress. If you have a problem, there are a whole bunch of guys here that are ready to help you out. Great project and welcome to TU.

(rolling on the floor with histerical laughter).

Almost silent, a 50hz hum from the transformer only. I am fairly sure that mine has a small tank built in, as it clicks in and out with the pressure. I have not dismantled it yet (for fun). I cannot tell you the make as I am away from home at the moment.

Make sure you take advantage of the cooling off period. But I think it is too late, your hooked! Welcome to TU.

Trading post is where you hopefully benefit financially or otherwise. I think it is reasonalbe for TU to get a piece of that. Just a humble thingy.

If you don't find what you are looking for, here is a technique posted by a member a while back. Sorry I cannot remember the name but the method works very well. Pin two planks of wood (denser is better) together, so they can be opened and closed. Clamp them together and drill a hole down the centre crack. This is your lead mold. Drill several holes to increase production. Take an old metal ladle or deep spoon. Cut a VEE in the edge of the bowl which you will pour from. This concentrates the pour in one location and prevents spillage. Wrap the handle with folded tissue and cover that with strong tape. Weigh the lead into the bowl, add 0.1 gram extra, this allows for slag formed. Melt over a gas flame. You should be able to pour 25 in a couple of hours, to the exact weight and shape that you require. Wear goggles and heavy clothing, including a cap. Don't forget the gloves. If you are going to pour regularly, you do need to get the right equipment.

Bountiful, good thread. JSC, I know it is like asking how long is a piece of string, but could you give an idea of how much business we could reasonably expect from a rep.

Your units were confusing. I assume by 'mil' you are talking about thousandths of an inch. I have not found Lexan as yet and am using some clear plastic sheet, 2mm (1/8") thick. Lexan is a superior material, but I am not selling lures, or fishing rocky waters, nor sub-zero temperatures, so it will do for now. My thoughts are that the lip material should be as thin as possible to get the job done. The lips job is to A) deflect the water to the sides and generate the vortices that give the action. Try not to spoil the aesthetics of the finished product. While regular swimming, the lip must be stiff enough not to bend or distort. The lip must also be strong enough to take a reasonable pounding from submerged rocks. Whether you should have to design the lip to withstand abuse from an idiot, casting onto rocks all day is probably debatable. As Bob stated, 1/16" is a practical thickness to work with. If you want to use thinner, you need to give it a violent work out to make sure it takes the abuse before selling any lures. If you compare a thin lip with a thick lip on the same lure body (not at the same time), there will be a difference. Not because of the thickness, but because of the change in weight distribution, average density, centre of gravity, etc. If you are looking for the widest wiggle you can possibly generate, a thin lip would be an advantage, as the inertia of the lips mass is reduced. Nothing more than just a few of my thoughts on the subject.

Welcome to TU and good luck with the foiling.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/member-submitted-tutorials/12431-photo-finishing-foil-faux-finishes.html This is a tutorial on the subject. Found by pressing the 'how to' button at the top, then select member submitted tutorials, top of the second page. Enjoy

I think you will hook a few fishermen along the way. The good thing is there's no bag limit, the bad thing is you can kiss your life goodbye if you try to catch too many.

It's times like that you wish you had a cat.

I do understand your point of view, that if the body is poured in a mold, it is no longer hand made. I changed my mind on that opinion when I tried pouring myself. Pouring requires knowledge and skill, both require a LOT of practice to get it right, just like any other aspect of lure making. In addition, YOU carved the master and YOU cast the mold. Sounds pretty well hand made to me.

I live in an apartment complex and don't get home until after 7pm. A noisy compressor is not an option. I bought a noiseless compressor from a craft shop. It was rediculously expensive, but that is mainly down to my location and craft shops double the price anyway. The sound was about the same as a fish tank aerator pump. The reservoir tank is vary small and pressure drop problems may be present. But, I have no experience of normal compressors as I am just learning to brush. I am away from home at the moment and I cannot recall the manufacturer. It is another option to consider.