Vodkaman

I have to say that I don't know much about the different formulae of US racing, but I do enjoy racing of any sort, particularly F1. I was hoping that Schumacher was going to follow the money and go the Nigel Mansel route. But I don't think that he could cope with being told, "Mike, you have to let them passed, your not allowed to block them"!

You realise that this poor 'do gooder' is going to get claims from all over the world, from lure designers looking to try out possum hair on their jigs.

Lawle102, I've forgotten what free time is. There is just not enough time for everything that I want to do. I'll be glad when this work contract is over, then I can get back to some serious leasure (lure making) time.

Rhahn427, I read it the same as Mark, so I am glad that intrepidation was not an issue. I myself have been happily putting off the paint side of things for a long time. Busying myself with design testing, exploring materials and, of late, messing with molding techniques. I even wandered over into the soft plastics arena for a play. Anything but paint. However, the day is looming when I run out of things to test and I will actually have to finish something. One of the main reasons for going to the TU meet, is to get together with KcDano, an acknowledged master of the airbrush and try and get some first hand knowledge and enthusiasm going. Good luck with your new purchase and blow me away with your pics.

Making aluminum molds is a highly specialised process, requiring MAJOR money to outlay for NC machines. Even with the equipment, you need the know how. This only comes with years of experience and a lengthy apprenticeship. (I expect a free mold after this sales pitch Del). Aly molds are generally bought off the shelf, or you can get what you want specifically made. Your best bet would be to do some searches on molds and read about PoP (plaster of paris) and RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) rubber. Then decide if you want to go further or just buy some aly molds. Sorry to be so negative at your obvious enthusiasm, but this is the way it is. PoP and RTV make very respectable bodies and give you that extra buzz because YOU made it happen.

The natural elasticity of the line will also have a damping effect. But that would affect all depths, not just deep divers. The more line out, the more elastic damping occurs.

I too find this hard to believe. As stated above, it's only 20 feet. Consider a diver, swimming 200 feet down, we've all seen the documentaries. Never have I heard mention that moving around is more difficult at depth and they look fairly agile to me. It was an interesting point though and I have thought about it in the past. The pressure is from all around and is therefore self cancelling (pressure from the back is cancelled by pressure from the front). I think you hit the nail on the head when you mentioned the damping affect that the line has. This is more likely to be the correct explanation. The line is the limiting factor when it comes to depth. This is due to the line curving down to the lure. Once the curve angle reaches the lures tow line angle, the lure swims horizontal. Before the lure reaches this depth, the line is straighter to the lure and any 'pull' is felt strongly. As the line bows, any pull is damped out by the belly of the line pulling across the water. Hope this makes sence.

Can't, I tried!

I love NASCAR. I am an insomniac. Five minutes of NASCAR and I'm sawing logs for England.

Lock wire pliers, I remember those from my aircraft apprenticeship. From a quick search, they are also used on motor bikes. A very useful tool if you are doing large numbers. Not sure about this application though, they might have a better application for the hard baits forum, for making screw eyes etc. http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht167-professional-lock-wire-plier/path/pliers-snips-cutters

Mark, I did a search for flip flop and came up with half a dozen. This link was just the first. Happy reading. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9646&highlight=flip+flop

Thanks Tater for the straw tip. I modified the design, as the paint didn't taste too good, also it promoted an excess of saliva, which affected the even coverage (bit patchy). I took the cap off a HP sauce bottle, drilled a fine hole in the bottom and superglued it to the straw. I completed the gravity feed mechanism by extending the hole into the straw. To control the flow of paint, I tied a sewing needle of suitable diameter to the piercing ring in my eyebrow and insert the needle in the hole. To increase the paint flow, I just looked surprised. Conversly, to reduce the paint flow, I just frown. This takes a little practice, as you have to control your emotions. Pleasantly surprised at how well the spray job was going, I accidently flooded the straw and splattered the paint job. I pride myself with comming up with innovative solutions, but this time it's hats off to Tater! Hope you all try this one out, it really works! Have fun. Lawle102, welcome to the mad house.

Try wearing a hearing aid. Great for trawlin' the bars. I tell everyone it's a voice operated, hands free mobile phone. I don't suffer from grey hair any more, shaved them off, hence my e-mail address.

Nothing wrong with what you have written. It is a comprehensive plan. Personally, I try to take the projects one at a time. I find that if I get distracted by another project, which does happen, I end up staring at the wall or finding excuses not to do anything. Sometimes it takes days before I go down stairs to the test pool, even though the prototype is weighted and ready. I think that is apprehension, fear of a failure. Time is wasted, but I am definately not in a rut. If my jobs pile up too much, I take a time out and make a list of things to do. Once it is down on paper it frees up the mind and makes concentration much easier. I think this is a left brain problem. Hope your enthusiasm gets rejuvinated by the good response to your plight and that you post a few new ones very soon.

I'm using the full 1440 x 900 on my laptop because I use it for Catia V5 design work. This gives me more space for the drawing, as there are a gizillion icons around the edge. I don't want to be changing screen sizes all the time, so I'll live with it. It's really not a big deal, I just wanted to know why and was there a problem with my setup. I think I'm just subconciously looking for an excuse to buy a new laptop. The ashtrays are full on this one!

NOOO! I just tried it. The icons were like saucers, it scared me, so I changed it back. All you guys still using 600x800, you are really missing out.

If you want to get into lure MAKING, you'll also need a mini drill (Dremel) with a selection of bits, including sanding drum, a carving knife (exacto), also a selection of different grade emery papers. This is enough to get started, but the list will expand.

Terry, could you post a pic. Usually it is because you are flirting on the edge of instability. Moving the eye forward or trimming the lip back 1mm or 2mm should cure it. When you said that you tried tuning, are you just talking bending the eye left or right? There are other causes, which is why a pic might help, before you start cutting.

Already did and changed it back again two seconds later!

Ah yes, I remember the Sinclair ZX1000, those were the days!

I guess once you get into the big numbers, a microwave would be more of a hinderance. You'd have the door off its hinges in a couple of weeks. For learning and short runs, it is great. But professionals need professional equipment. Great post Joe S.

I know this is stating the obvious, but hot plate method heats the plastic from the edge of the container, at the surface of the pan. If you stop stirring during the heating process, that plastic will be damaged. On the other hand, the microwave penetrates the plastic and heats it from within. The penetration is not total and there are hot spots as the microwaves bounce around and can 'focus' causing a hot spot. But, as the rotating table keeps everything moving, this problem is greatly reduced. Still, stirring the plastic half way through the process will protect the plastic and give a more even heating. Some microwave dinners instruct you to stir half way through the cooking process for the same reason. If you can get hold of a second hand MW with a digital controller, rather than the analogue dial, then you are really in control.

I seems that I have made a mistake. It just looked like spam. I hate spam! Perhaps you would get more response if you elaborated on your requirements.

Mods, please delete this thread.

Scrap hacksaw blades adorn the dark corners of most workshops. They are very useful material source. I have fashioned marking knives and other such sharp implements from the discarded blades. The material is perfect for such applications. But I usually remove the teeth first, don't even have to think about it. I think the idea has merit and would be worth testing out.