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Vodkaman

TU Member
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Everything posted by Vodkaman

  1. That does not sound good. I would get back to them and see what they have to say about it. This is what samples are all about.
  2. I could not find a 'page tab'. The problem only occurs on the TU web site, all other sites are working as normal. This is very strange and frustrating. Edit: When I 'send' a post, the screen returns to normal for one page, but as soon as I move on, it narrows again!
  3. That might be a good solution. I'll try it, as the problem has returned and won't go away! I'm freakin' out. As soon as I pressed the send button for this reply, the screen snapped back to normal. Now where did I put that bottle of vodka?
  4. Thanks for the reply. I guess it's just me then. I was flipping through, reading posts. I pulled up the next one and the screen changed. The effect is very irritating, any ideas? I've checked the 'display' setup in 'control panel', but everything seems fine. Don't know why I posted this here. Mods, if you want to tidy up, please move to a suitable location. Thanks. Edit: I just had one more try with the screen setup. I changed it to small, then changed it back again. BINGO! it worked. God I hate computers. Just 'cos I sit in front of one for twelve hours a day at work does not make me an expert.
  5. My TU display has narrowed! It started last night. My laptop is wide screen, now I have 2 inches of redundant display down each side. I am really hoping that this is a temporary problem and it will be returned back to normal soon. Is this just my computer or is it a TU site thing?
  6. I agre Bruce. The indoor testing facility could be a bonus.
  7. You can come and hang'em in my apartment. Anything to keep them off me. I picked up three bites today!
  8. Hawnjigs. Does the 'bend out' return when released, ie spring back? If so, I think that this is normal and all hooks will have it. The springiness is a feature of the tempering of the metal. The thinner the wire, the more 'springiness' the hook will have. If it did not have the spring, it would snap. Something to do with youngs modulus.
  9. I agree, great pic. Really looking forward to finally meeting you all.
  10. Great pic Zig, welcome to TU.
  11. Welcome Oscar. Can you post pics of the mold and the resulting faulty casting. Is the problem always identical?
  12. Great source Pete. Come to think of it, I've seen prezzy wrapping paper that would skin a lure nicely, from card shops, back in the UK. Since I joined TU, a trip to the shopping mal has taken on new meaning. I see possible bait applications everywhere.
  13. Welcome to the tacklemaking University. I have learned more here than I ever did at college!
  14. (Ahem!!) So, hows the weather over there? It's getting hot under the collar here!
  15. Welcome Dodoman. Fill in the user profile, so we know where you are from. This is a helpful community, I'm sure we can assist you.
  16. NNNNOOOOOO! I've go too much to do before the meet, I say we put it back until June!
  17. Fair enough. So in answer to your question, there are no fixed rules as to where to place the joints or the ballast for that matter. But, if you are going to use a lip to drive the action, then it will need to sit in the water slightly nose down. As for the lip angle, around 70deg if you want it to swim the surface, decreasing the angle to go deeper. Even this is not a hard and fast rule, as you can make a 45 deg lip swim shallow if the lip has a smaller area. Like developing any new design, be prepared for a period of testing. The sucessful end result will be a combination of lip position, lip angle, lip size, tow eye location, ballast position, etc. As for the hinge locations, a good place to start would be to scan the photo library and see where everyone else puts the joints. Rough out a few bodies and accept that these are for testing only, so no fancy paint schemes, just seal them and paint white, for visibility. Go to the lake with lip material, super glue and a few tools, for on site modifications. I bought a battery dremel for the job, excellent! I've just read what I have written and realise I have not really helped much. I hate saying trial and error, but that is the way it works. What I will say, is that you can cut down on future blind trial and error, by keeping notes of each adjustment, cause and effect. Eventually, you will get a "feel" for the lure. Secondly, only change one parameter at a time, or you won't know which change worked and you will have to repeat the tests. Good luck with it and let us know of your progress.
  18. Yoy will have to prepare it to stop the grain from raising, so it might as well be a sealer.
  19. When I was messing about with vacu-venting "hairy worm thread", I did the same thing, except not lexan. It was some white plastic sheet 3/16 thick, from the craft shop. The first pour or two where ok, then the plastic sagged like a huge dimple. Also cracks developed. As the hardbaits guys use hot oil to bend lexan, I suspect that the same thing may happen. Just be aware of the possibility of a problem and stay safe.
  20. I think it is a shame to cut up a working bait. I would start from scratch, just my opinion. I will leave the rest to the glider and swimbait experts.
  21. Nice shapes, they look like they are going to run off by them selves! Interesting with the triangular paddles, I take it you haven't got them wet yet. You'll have to post a vid, not that I would be able to see it, with all my computer problems!
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