Vodkaman

I designed a swivelling laptop table. To make prototypes, I had to do a lot of routering. I did not fancy the 'cutter up' table, so I designed a 'cutter down' table, with the fixed router mounted in the lid. When the lid was lifted, a micro switch isolated the power. When the lid was down, it was physically impossible to get near the bit. You were working blind, but that is not a problem when using the template method. The 6kg router made the lid very heavy, so I designed a dampened cantilever system, so the lid could be opened with only light force and could be released and it would not slam down. It contained more design than than the laptop table I was trying to prototype! Now that the lid mounted table has been proven, if I was to router small parts, like lure bodies, I would definately go the same route again. Not the most convenient tool to use, but, like fatfingers, I am really attached to my digits.

My brother carved a four foot carp with a chainsaw (see my avatar), probably not the same thing though.

This is a great thread. Do you have the architects 'picture' of how the building is planned to look (artists impression). It would be interesting to see next to the completed building when your finished, which will probably next week at the rate your going!

In addition to the lamp, I have a white LED torch light, the kind that clips to your cap. It is excellent for lighting up fine detail.

If I didn't like the cut of my hair, I would find a different barber, true. But I wouldn't stand outside the shop of the offending barber and try to turn away the rest of his customers! Cadman, I too would like to hear what the moderators think on this issue.

Nice one Matt, you really sucked Mike into that one!

Routers are sold with a detachable plate. Most do not understand its purpose, but it is precisely for the purpose that you describe. I have designed many tools (for my own use) for cutting out multiple parts. The template butts up against the template and acts as a guide. The template has to be smaller than the profile that you are cutting. Examination of your equipment and some trial cuts will help determine the design of the template. As suggested on a previous thread on the same subject, several bodies can be cut in one operation. This increases the blank size and allows more distance between your valuable fingers and the merciless cutting blade. Routers are a fantastic tool but total respect must be given. Beware of cutting across end grain and always be aware of the cutting direction. Mistakes WILL be made, just make sure your fingers are not near the cutter. If a guard is provided with the equipment, USE IT. When everything seems to be going smoothly, this is the time to beware! Good luck.

I am a theorist. I believe that understanding how a lure works is the key to successful design. But I know that theory is not everyones "cup of tea". Tinman is right on the mark. Make a few proto's, try a few different configurations out, make notes of cause and effect. Knowledge can be gained this way that will save you time and effort in the future. It may even lead to one or two new ideas. The key thing is to keep notes. If you have the equipment to hand, video is a very useful tool. For me, this is the fun part! I know, strange man.

"Just in time" was a revolutionary new idea, taught to me thirty years ago, in college. I argued against it then (to no avail) and argue along with you guys now, it just does not work. If every manufacturer in the chain operates this system, say five operations. In theory, you will have to wait a day for the operation plus minimum two days delivery x5. That is an absolute minimum of fifteen days before you can receive your purchase, just in time! The only link in the chain that should be afforded the luxury of "just in time" service, in my most humble opinion, is the customer. It is up to the rest of the industry to maintain stock levels to support the customer, at all times. This is all well and good, everything works in theory, well all my theories work in theory. In the real world, sh1t happens. Fortunately, most experienced customers come to learn this fact of life and either make their purchases earlier or accept the situation without whining about it. People who run their own businesses take it very seriously and understand that reputation is everything. The problem with TU is that if one delivery is late, a thousand people get to read about it. I would like to see threads like this barred from these pages, I just don't find them relevant.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9107&highlight=dick+drip Post No4 explains everything. You broke the rule, never let it drip back in the can. I don't know whether you can rescue the remainder, but it would not do any harm to try. Pour the remainder into a new container. I also remember that DN reacts to some plastics. All the info is here on TU, you just got to search and the truth shall be revealed. This is such a well known problem, I am surprised Mr Dick hasn't put a warning on the label, or has he?

One of my favorite tips or advice given was for making wood bodies symmetrical. By blacking out two mating surfaces with a black marker pen before gluing the pieces together, you get a permanent centerline along your body. No matter how much material gets removed, the centerline remains. For making masters for molding, I take this a step further and glue a thin sheet of black card between the pieces of body. This gives a thicker line as my eyes are not that good these days. This may not have been the exact point or purpose of this thread, but I would like to thank the poster of this tip. I tried to find the name with a search, but failed.

Brave man. Straight in with foiling! You are a better man than me, I gave up. Have you tried them in the water yet? How did they swim? Well done.

Smirkplug, neat idea, devious.

Strangely enough, the density of the wood will have very little effect on the depth that the lure will swim. It is all down to the combination of lip, ballast and eye geometry. However, the denser wood will restrict the action, due to its inertia or reluctance to move. Don't let that stop you though. I saw a really nice ebony lure made several months ago, on this site. No paint, just naturaal wood and clear finish.

I only told you that I solved one particular problem, got a whole bunch of new ones.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10191 Good thread.

You can fish next to me and scare all the fish into my net. Great job, very original, made me smile.

Thanks Smallie. Can't over mention this information.

Del, are you talking about microballoons? I've just taken delivery of mine. When I opened the bag, a huge plume of white powder escaped. I lept for my mask! I'm surprised no one has mentioned the need for a mask when dealing with this stuff. Once it is settled in a suitable container it is manageable as long as you don't move too fast.

Solved the problem with the second wife, she spoke very little English.

It is just practice. You will notice massive improvement, very quickly. Set yourself a testing period, in other words, don't just make one and decide that you cannot do this. Try one per day for a month before making a decision. If they are still rubbish after that, post a pic and ask some questions, you will probably be doing something wrong. Mark a centre line. This makes it easier to eyeball the symmetry. I have read here that people glue two pieces of wood together, but before gluing, they use a thick marker pen and color in the mating surfaces. So, as you carve, a centre line is always visible. If a piece goes badly wrong, cut your losses and start again. Small errors can be rescued with filler. Cut lip slots etc before carving. It is easier to get the slot square, also, if you screw up the slot on a square bait, you haven't wasted all that carving time. Remove small amounts at a time and examine. Work both sides at the same time. What ever you do to one side, immediately do to the other and eyeball continuously. Search the word carve and carving and you will find a thousand tips on carving. Hope it works out for you.

Every now and then I read about a big company getting fingers burned by a little company, for patent infringement. This gives me a warm fuzzy feling inside. If you do not have any protection, they will walk all over you. They may even patent the idea and stop you from using it! I agree with the above, get professional advice and have a go. There are no bad posts on this thread, no one is trying to discourage you, just trying to arm you for the fight ahead. I wish you success.

You covered the didge very nicely Bruce. Clamboni, I really hope that you make it, just bring some of your knowledge with you.

That reminds me of conversations with my first wife.

A TU gathering of hairy anglers is not the time nor the place to exit the closet.