Vodkaman

I like Clamboni's idea. A ton of stuff has been written on this subject. The following link was particularly productive of ideas. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11007&highlight=holders One thing to consider is, do you just want to hold it just for painting, or do you want the clip(s) to stay on throughout the whole manufacturing process, including the drying wheel operation. If the lure is untouched by human hands, their is less likely to be any problems with paint adhesion etc.

Many thanks Bruce. A very important part of TU that has been mising for a while. Thankyou to all the administrators and staff.

SWO, I was very surprised at the results. I expected the metal with the highest thermal conductivity (the speed at which heat travels through the metal) to cool the plastic faster and give the thinnest wall. I assumed brass would give the thinnest, steel second and aluminum third. I looked up the figures. The higher the figure, the more heat is moved. Aluminum 124 Brass 67 Steel 21 I was surprised that aluminum was the most conductive, I guess that is why my eggs burn in my aluminum cooking pots. Also, the results of your test, very accurately reflects the figures above. So, if you want thicker walls, you need to use more insulating materials. The conductivity of glass is 0.8, this would theoretically give a very thick wall, but in practice, the plastic would flow or drip away and take forever to cool down. The link below gives some figures for different metals, the lower the figure, the thicker the wall. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-metals-d_858.html Depending on which site you view, the figures vary, but the overall trend is good.

Welcome Ron, can't wait to see your creations.

Mark, you bad boy. Post number 89. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7928&highlight=hinge&page=9 It took me ages to find it! The beauty of cutting the VEE hinges very early on, is that if you mess up, not too much time and labour is wasted, just another stick for the fire.

Murphy's law often applies to lure construction, "Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong".

How much does a microwave and a couple of pyrex cups cost!

Spot on Borderbasser. Prototype first. You may have to experiment with the cut lines to make room for ballast distribution. Experiment with the eye location. Also, experiment with the head shape, depth etc, I think it is this that determines how it swims, just my opinion.

I had to check that no one was standing behind me before I hit the link, was not sure what was going to appear on my screen!

Ross, it's looking good. My only concern is that if you pour UR with microballoons, From the pictures, I can see air being trapped, leaving a flawed casting. As you have already poured the RTV, I suggest you go ahead and do the first try outs. If a bubble occurs, it is a simple solution to cut extra vents to the outside, with a sharp exacto knife or similar. UR will give shrinkage, but on the plus side, the shrinkage separates the casting from the mold surface. What I found was that the shrinkage occurs while the UR is still soft and leaves a rough surface finish, requiring a lot of cleaning up work. But the result is a virtually unbreakable body. The foam won't give you the shrinkage problem and will be less likely to give the air bubble problem. I noticed the edges are rounded, was this deliberate. I think it is a good idea myself, ensuring positive flash that can easily be removed with a dremel drum sander. The foam will also adopt the finish of your mold surface. Does anyone have any suggestions about my surface finish problem? I don't think this question is a hijack, it is relevant to the next stage of this excellent documentary and Ross may appreciate the answer also.

Some real nice shapes. You gotta finish 'em. Some of the grain looks so good, it will be a shame to cover it up with paint.

Search function is limited to minimum four character words. Try a search on worm.

Book one for me too, please.

Could you post a pic of the problem?

Personally, I think if you mount it vertically, you are going to loose yet another master and suffer more frustration. Certainly, mounting it flat will be much easier. After all the problems with the clay, you may be better considering a different material for your masters. Clay does not lend itself to thin sections, legs etc. That tail looks pretty skinny and is the main risk of breakage. Are you using the clay as is, or are you applying a top coat. A couple of coats of epoxy would help with the strength of the naster in the skinny sections. I am using polyester resin a lot these days. It is a hard, smooth surface finish and is ready for use in a couple of hours. Something else to consider for your next master, is to build the clay master over a stainless steel wire frame. This again will help protect the thin areas, combined with an epoxy or resin top coat, will make the master much more durable.

Ho, you've come to the right place, masses of information on your addiction, but nothing on how to quit. It gets worse, I'm addicted to this site too. Definition of a good day, 120 posts unread!

Ross, good one. I've used a similar design when I used to do wine making. Heated by a 15w bulb and a thermostat to control the required tempreature. I did not mention insulation, as the air will be in and out. But I think a lining of ALUMINIUM foil would not hurt any.

Forgot to save first! Nice shape, let us all know how it swims.

I could not open the pdf file.

That sounds like a ground or earth connection problem. There is a chance that the F150 part has never been used and the socket connections are corroded, causing some of the lights to work and not others. But when they all go out, it is usually an earth problem.

Mark. Another great contribution. I told you Archimedes was a lure designer.

Nasty stuff, I never touch it. If man was meant to drink water, Darwen would have given us gills.

Yes. Instead of thinking outside the box, think inside. I like it!

WOW.! Awesome work.

I mix about 20% PVA (elmers glue) with the water. This improves the strength and resistance to chipping. Also the surface is no longer dusty. I'm still experimenting with the proportions. If you add too much PVA, the bubbles become more of a problem as the viscosity of the water increases.