Vodkaman

Nice sabre!

I have to agree with Bruce. The PM system is there to be used. Never had a negative word back regarding PM's from anyone. One or two did not reply, but that is OK. I've even had to create a folder to store the back-ups in, won't tell you how many! It saves a lot of the chit-chat clogging up some of the posts, although I have clogged a few recently myself, I'm doing it again, damn!

Not a straight slope. What does it matter anyway!

Theory tells me that it swims down in an arc, probably hyperbolic and then rises in a straight slope. So the max depth is only briefly achieved. I could be wrong but their is an explanation.

Even if you start the bait past 30', it will swim up to its own maximum depth.

If it does, we'll just have to adjourn to the pool table.

I live in rented accomodation. The landlord is a pain in the asss, I never use the oven so I have no problem using it as part of my chemistry set. The oven is a cheapo calor gas, piece of. The thermostat (HA!) is a twist knob with no markings. I look at the flame, it is either high or low, so I use low. I also open the patio door as there is no vent for it. I've been caught out by CO poisoning before. Regarding plaster, as far as I know and googled, there is only water comming out of the plaster, the chemical reaction has already finished. Even during the chemical reaction, it was harmless, except for the heat. I judge the time by picking it up every 30 mins. If it feels light, it's done. Usually works out about 90 mins. I find that if you over do it, the mould can get powdery and be a problem sealing if you use a brush. The brush disturbs the surface. If you are not sure and want to use a brush, use a very soft brush, landlords cat works well. Turn it over on its back and test it (the mould, not the cat). If it does wear the surface, use a different method, I splash a 50/50% PVA (elmers) water mix, without touching the surfaces and leave for 24 hours. Sorry, got carried away there!

Mags, of course your right, I didn't think that one through properly.

I've re-read my post and it reads like I am contradicting Mr Tater. Rooky is one of the most respected lure builders around. He has a large customer base, who come back for more. Read his Ebay feedback, it is second to none. If Tater Hog says it's so, that's good enough for me.

Rlcam, it's 16:30 here in Malaysia and I've started my three weeks holiday break. It's way too hot to venture outside, close to 90F. As for the eyes, I try not to close the hole with the top coat. If it does, I poke it in the eye with a sharp stick while it is still wet. Once the top coat is dry and you start messing about with it, you always run the risk of disturbing the seal and allow a path for the water to be sucked in. Before you fish the lure, it is warm. It's been in the trunk of your heated car. The sun is shining and all is well. But, the water is cold. The sudden chill contracts the air inside the wood and water will be drawn in through any breaches of the seal. I'm not saying that it is a bad idea to remove the dry excess, you just need to take care and be aware of the consequences of careless practices. Another good practise is to clean up the hanger wires with a solvent and maybe a piece of fresh scotchbrite before painting. Make sure that you do not touch them again with your fingers. While you are doing that, clean the faces of any clamps that you intend to use. The same goes for the whole body. Once the body is sealed, you should not touch it with bare fingers. Anal? maybe, but it only takes a minute or two.

Cotton Cordell little "O". Couldn't find a picture though.

I assume that you mean 60yds! Any tweaks are not going to get you much more depth. If you are getting 24ft, you should be well happy with that. Lure depth has been discussed a few times here on TU and I cannot remember anyone claiming much more than 20ft off a cast.

Wear protective glasses. Those wire wheels throw off wire shards. It WILL get you in the eye, it's just a matter of when.

Frank Rizo! What a guy!

Monty pythons flying circus. I don't know if it is just me, but when I buy a new pole, I am thinking to myself, "how long is it going to take this thing to wear in". To me, it is like a leather jacket, looking new is just not cool. I'm not so sure that sealing the cork would be a good idea. I think that its grip qualities might be impaired, but I will cower to more informed opinions.

Object To construct a set of weighing scales capable of weighing to 99% accuracy at minimum cost. I designed these scales 20 years ago. This construction allows you to test out accurate weighing techniques for buoyancy, ballast and construction repeatability, without having to shell out dollars for electronic scales, only to discover that the technique is not for you. The following description, with the photo

WOW!!! That is one serious lure. Just checked the site again and it came up this time. Must have been a bad connetion.

Check this out. http://www.wherecreativitygoestoschool.com/vancouver/left_right/rb_test.htm It is not an intelligence test and there is no right or wrong results. But you may find the results revealing. I hope not to the extent that you would not post your results. Here is mine: Left Brain Right Brain 68% 32% Your Left Brain Percentages 48% Sequential (Your most dominant characteristic) 47% Reality-based 42% Symbolic 37% Linear 30% Logical 20% Verbal (Your least dominant characteristic) Your Right Brain Percentages 42% Holistic (Your most dominant characteristic) 32% Nonverbal 28% Concrete 10% Intuitive 8% Fantasy-oriented 0% Random (Your least dominant characteristic) This explains a lot to me, a bit scarey even. Have a go and post your percentages.

Strangely enough, I am left handed. I have to pass the regular left side handle reel across the body to the right hand so I can wind with the left hand. Consequently, I look like a total novice when I'm fishing. As mentioned above, I'm not so sure it is what you learn on. My left handed father resisted this and put the hand on the opposite, right side of the reel. There again, he may have done this to stop me pinching his more expensive reel when he was not looking.

Looks like that vacuum idea really does the job, with the amount of bubbles that you reported. Did you use a wire cage or something to hold the balsa completely submerged? If not, when you switched the vacuum off, it probably just sucks chamber air back in again, plus a little liquid. When you switch the vacuum off, leave the bait caged and submerged for another five or ten minutes before removing. The remaining air inside the balsa will now be compressed. The space left by the compressed air will be taken by the liquid. You could even put the chamber under positive pressure at this point for even deeper penetration. While the vacuum is on, the liquid is prevented from gaining access, as the traffic (air) is going the other way. Even when the bubbles stop, this only means that equilibrium has been reached. Other than a little capillary action, there is nothing to cause the liquid to penetrate. Only when the vacuum is removed and the balsa held submerged, does penetration occur. I hope this all makes sense. I’ve had a few more thoughts on the subject. (A) Submerge. Vacuum on until bubbles stop. Vacuum off. Stand for five minutes. ( Remove from liquid and while still wet, using a sharp needle, push several holes through to the centre of the balsa, NOT right through. Up to you, but I would not use an electric drill close to all those explosive fumes. © repeat (A). I don't think that the dye was filtered out. Try this method with the dye and see if it works.

PhilB. There was no picture on the front page. I checked the "spinnerbait parts", but only found bits. Can you do a "Save picture as" and post it from that, otherwise I don't know what you are looking at.

The eyes on the third from top (Kaihatsu "Chip") look like they are really sticking out. Are they or is it an optical illustration? They all look worth the money, especially No3.

Speeeed. Fishing lure sites are about the pics and we want them big and fast. You don't have to fill the screen, but I cannot get any information off a postage stamp (square sticky thing, used by snails).

If you don't find a solution by any other means, this is the perfect test for my vacu-venting system. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11056 Someone's got to try it out, especially after all the whining articles that I have read about difficult pours over the last year.

Not a painter myself, but I have just been waiting for their input. I suspect that the most enjoyable part of lure making (apart from cashing the occasional cheque) is applying the paint and seeing the block of wood come to life. Clemmy, the clown is my uncle Trev and his wife Anne. The dude in the middle is Emlyn Hughes, ex Liverpool soccer player. Trev is one of my heroes. He quit a high paying exec job to become a professional party clown and makes a descent living at it too. I wanted to demonstrate what a grin was, he never stops grinning. A real happy guy.