Vodkaman

Post another.

All the hurdy gurdy is hurting my head. It's very dificult to pull the names out of the Finnish text.

Pete, that was impressive. The lip looks right.

It is very similar to the Sabatier effect in photography. I won't describe it here, too heavy. It is a way of producing a thin line of white between two black bodies. The result looks like a negative line drawing. Impressive, but hardly worth the six hours it took me to produce. What I think he is saying, is that lacquer applied onto wet lacquer, will run upto the previous coat, but not quite reaching it, leaving a rim of white. A good application for painting the eyes, with a very thin white rim. The fish will be well impressed and will select your piece of plastic over the real thing, any day!

I think the guy has way too much wanga to waste.

Palmetto Balsa, you cannot give it away. You have to post another.

I have a tapered dremel file, many here just use a piece of wire in a dremel. The important thing, as was determined on a recent thread regarding leaking baits in deep water, is not to stress the joint or the seal will be broken. The air in the bait will contract due to temperature and pressure and water will be drawn in and spoil the bait.

The James Bait company?

Fred or James

Cotton Cordell?

A few polystyrene ceiling tiles should keep them tidy. Should be able to hook on 400 - 500 per tile.

Thank's Dramone, you pretty much covered it. Respect Husky, for sharing your extensive knowledge and experience.

We have a new world record. It just doesn't seem fair after the work that I did on Swede's, a real poirot job! But I did learn a lot on the way. Your turn KC.

I have chosen this lure because it represents the very first design idea that I had for a hard bait. The idea was a combination of an ‘S’ shaped spoon with a hard bait body. I pursued the idea for about six weeks, giving it up in the end. I could not get it to swim how I wanted and it looked ridiculously ugly. I would never have imagined that the idea was already out there. It seems the idea was not so silly after all! Bait name please.

When you make a resin body with the micro balloons, Does this method leave enough lattitude to be able to add ballast and still keep the lure afloat or is the density of the body just determined by the balloons and no further ballasting.

Luhr Jensen was a German immigrant to US. So, my final attempt is Jensen wobbler. I have found two pictures, other than yours, but cannot find anything else. http://www.tradera.com/JENSEN_WOBBLER_TROLIGEN_OFISKAD_se_bild-auktion-48844759#pic http://fiskesnack.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8680&d=1191846035 Above are the links. I'm googled out now, so over to the rest of you. Good one Swede.

Luhr Jensen Wobbler!

laxbete - (Upplagd av: Gruvis) This might not be the name, but I found the pic!

Have some acetone (nail polish remover), alcohol or something similar on hand to clean up afterwards, epoxy is messy stuff.

I was thinking about Jmik26's (post 11) idea. But pour half the plastic, then push the pin in and top up the plastic to completion. The mould is opened and the pin removed. This would guarantee that the paddle was filled. It will be fiddly operating the pins, but if the idea is good, I am sure a way can be found. Possibly by mounting the mould in a frame to give access to the bottom. I thought that I had posted this a few days ago, obviously missed the go button!

I've just had a quick google, it seems that organic lead is lead combined with complex hydrocarbons and other nasties as an anti knocking agent for the petrolium industry. Most of the google results were about health and safety. Whether it is worse than regular lead, I don't know. But it isn't any better, that is for sure! I suggest you have a read yourself and make a decision.

I would not even wash my socks in the sea in your neck of the woods. I had my scare a few years ago while snorkelling around Tioman (malaysian holiday island). After bragging that I had seen a massive gruper, bigger than a bin lid, my friend told me he had seen a shark! The thump in my chest that second and the subsequent feeling of nausea for the rest of the day put me off water activities outside of the hotel swimming pool for the rest of my life!

Probably a silly question, but what the hell. Could the middle blue layer pour be replaced by ink? India ink brushed on or even a marker pen. Or would this just cause splitting. I understand the risk of pouring onto a wet surface, but the ink should dry instantly. If it worked, some interesting effects could be produced.

A paddle tail would work well, again, it acts like a rear mounted lip and will give a fish tail movement. A thicker body will have less ability to move. The body should taper down to the tail. The section close to the tail should not be round, but preferably a thin vertical rectangle. This will limit the movement to a sideways motion. How good the action is will depend on the taper and the stiffness of the plastic. Trial and error will be the only way. Check out existing baits for a starting design but be prepared to experiment. I have read that many lure designers use clay and coat it with epoxy, such as devcon. As yellowing is not a problem on a master, 5 min epoxy would be good enough. Clay in such a thin shape is very delicate, as you probably realize by now. The epoxy will give a glass finish and add some strength, but still use great care when removing from the mould. A mould release agent of some sort may help. Maybe someone can advise on that. Try a search on ‘release agent’, there should be loads of info right here on TU.