Vodkaman

I can't remember anyone here suggesting that idea before. So simple, I'm disappointed that I did not think of it myself. Nice one Ernel.

How about putting together some images and slogans for Tee shirts, should be a laugh. Also, if anyone sees a design published here, the pic can be pulled off and given to a T-shirt printer. Keep the pic files small so as not to irritate the management, if the original is required, we can deal with that by PM and e-mails.

Birdy. Excellent tutorial, well written and very easy to understand, something that I am not so good at. I agree with you that it is dificult to decide which forum to present this project as it is half and half. But, personally, I read all the forums and pick up knowledge from them all. Quite often techniques applied to one type of bait can be transferred to another. I would be very interested to read what everyone else thinks about this work. Good job. Send me your Email addy, my work PM does not work, cheers.

Are you using the correct tools for the job, or freehanding. A fly tying vice and a few hackle clamps (not sure of the correct name), make the job so much easier by keeping everything tight. Also the tools enable you to let go of everything without it falling apart. A simple starter book to fly tying will help enormously.

What is causing the thickness problem? Is it something to do with the sprue solidifying too soon, causing back pressure on the soft mould material, I cannot make sense of the problem. If this was the case, then opening the sprue hole would help. But I would get more experienced advice first, I am only theorising (bored at work)!

Basically it all comes down to density. The heavier the wood, the more the weight is spread out and the harder it is to get the action. Not everyone wants masses of action, each to their own preferrences. I prefer balsa, easy to work and good action but there are many disadvantages. Balsa requires through wire, as screw eyes will pull out. Because of its soft texture, it is prone to tooth attack and subsequent paint problems. I have no real experience with the other woods, but if you do word searches on the wood names, you will find the information that you are looking for. Good luck.

Riverman. To be honest, once I arrived at a solution for the hinge, I lost interest in the jointed lure. It was around that time that I made huge leaps forward in the lip theory and concentrated on that. I will eventually get back to the hinge, but at the moment work is severely hindering my progress. I hope someone tries it.

Sound advice BobP.

Welcome Bowman. This is an excellent question and has been asked many times before. In fact it was pretty much the first question that I asked, with very little positive response. Over the last six months their have been many discussions on the subject, so I am giving you a series of words to search this site for. The search function at the top of the page only allows single word searches, so you have quite a bit of reading to do. Unfortunately I am under the thumb at work and do not have the time to present you with direct links. Good luck with it and ask questions. Search words: vortex vortices axis axes buoyancy yaw roll wobble waggle ballast hunt hunter death (as in death roll). Hope this helps. Also read all posts by Skeeter and Lapala.

Finlander. At exactly the same time that I posted, Husky posted the same method on hardbait forum, except his description is far superior to mine. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9628 Hope this link works.

Hoodaddy. I checked it out a while back, price is not too scarey. Do you own one, if so I have a bag of questions for you, if you do not mind. Sorry for the mini hijack, but my PM does not work on this office system, the security is as tight as a ducks a---.

What about the foam? Not sure I would trust it with screw eyes, anyone have any experience? But my hangars are going to be multi purpose by holding and positioning the ballast.

Mr Hoo'. That's pretty much it. When you drop the wire in, do you coat it with flux or any cleaning agent or any other process? You've got the pics nailed now.

The lures look great, what a fantastic weekend, I'm jealous! Dave

I haven't made any hangars yet, but the above method is exactly what I have planned. I would expect to be able to achieve good repeatability after a dozen tries, getting the feel for over bend and spring back. With locators in the lead mould to hold the hangar in the same place every time and in the final mould, should achieve consistancy. Am I being naive?

I follow the series also, excellent job. I would send one to him, I'm sure it would bring in a grin.

Mister ESO! I think you have come to the wrong web site. This site is to help those who wish to build and paint their own lures. I suggest you go down to your local fishing shop and buy some new ones and get back to the river.

I first place the weight where I think it goes. I then swim the lure and make a note of the line angle when the bait is swimming horizontal. I then mount the weight at a position actually sitting on this line axis. If you read my article on death roll, this is actually a line of instability. It is also the line of maximum action. SO, to fine tune the final weight position, I build the second lure with 10mm eye extension, so that the eye can be adjusted up and down to get the best stable swim action. On the third and hopefully final lure, I re-position the eye to my new tested position. But at the end of the day, it depends on what action you are looking for.

Birdy. As long as you don't talk about cricket, you are most welcome. As for all the terminology, I'm still struggling with that, so I'll leave that to everyone else. I'm sure there will be a lot of interest in your mould making activities. I hope you stick around a while and teach us a thing or three. Cheers mate Dave (pommy barstuard)

Really sorry to read about your families troubles, thinking about you and wishing for a better future for you all. Dave

A method that I have been playing with recently, is to cut the shape out of a balsa sheet (type of wood not important). I then jam the pattern into the hole half way. The cutout does not need to be a perfect fit, just tight in two or three places. This then forms the bottom of the mold box. When the POP is poured, with a little agitation, the bubbles rise away from the pattern, leaving a perfect mold, no bubble craters and a flat surface. There is a little flash where the pattern did not fit the balsa perfectly, but once the mold has been fully dried, this sands off very easily, leaving good edges to the mold. Is anyone else doing similar? If not, I think it is worth an experiment. Another advantage is that you can control precicely, how much of the pattern is molded.

I agree with David, I have been around this site since the beginning of the year and I'll need at least another five to clear my todo list. The thought of taking on soft baits at the same time is overwhealming. Not to say it cannot be done. Welcome and good luck with it, keep us all posted.

Yes Jed, but the problem is that the molded material inevitably will have a diferent density to the original wooden lure, hense the tweaking to get it to swim the same, also the ballast will have to change to achieve the same buoyancy, if that is important to you. Personally, I perform this buoyancy calc for all my lures. I like about 10 to 15 percent of the final weight as buoyancy. It's really down to what feels right and how the lure behaves during a pause. This subject was covered well by Skeeter some time ago and has stuck in my mind. But, by this calculation method, I can determine the amount of ballast without any tank testing. As long as you are not going for a neutral buoyancy, I find the method more than adequate for reproduction of swim properties. As mentioned earlier today, KEEP NOTES.

My thoughts are to cook the plaster mold in the oven for 20 mins before use, to eliminate any moisture. Keeping the mold in an airing cupboard or on a radiator when not in use would probably do the trick. This subject has been through my mind a lot recently, as I plan to mold the lead onto the hangar wire, for consistancy of manufacture.

16lb foam is what a lot of lure designers are using. The foam comes in various weights, 2lb, 4lb, 8lb and 16lb. This refers to how much a cubic foot of the cured foam weighs in pounds. The higher the pounds the higher the strength and hardness. Most on this web site reccomend 16lb. A cubic foot of water, if my calcs are correct is around 62lbs. So the density of the 16lb is roughly one quarter of water, this makes it similar to balsa wood, only much stronger! Good stuff indeed.