Vodkaman

In my opinion, in order of preference: 1 - belt sander, they are usually belt/disk combo. 2 - drill press. Accurate drilling, also flap wheel operation. 3 - band saw. I prefer a metal cutting blade. Rough body shape and lip slot cutting. Dave

My experience with epoxy and other 2-part resins; once they get hot, it is too late to apply. Dave

I would say make at least two more with lip lengths 25mm and 20mm plus what ever you want to try, and give me some feedback. Try with and without a ballast weight. We all have a 'feel' for the power of the lip on a crank, but there is no 'feel' precedence for something like this. Dave

I would say not, but like you say, the materials are cheap and this is a very simple part to make. I would certainly go to the water's edge with several configs, including your idea. Dave

I don't know about the trip thing, but the tow point will be a critical factor in the dive function. I will model something up in 25mm (1") and see how it looks. Dave

This is what I had in my mind for the PVC tube. Of course I must add a disclaimer as this is pure theory. The idea is to scoop up water and drive it upwards, providing a jet effect to drive the tube downwards. There will still be vortex shedding, so a low pressure will exist underneath the tube, drawing the tube down. The lip(s) trimmed half way around the pipe should soften the vortex effect and subsequent movement. The top/rear lip protects the jet from the vortices formed around the pipe. Also, balances the pressure on the front lip and thus controls the dive angle. Adjustments - this is basically eyeballed, so the geometry; body length, front lip length, rear lip length, eye positions may have to be moved around for optimum. Ballast eye - I don't think a ballast leader will be necessary, but I have included it in case of unforeseen stability problems. The pipe I have in my hand is 21.5mm OD with 2mm wall thickness. I have designed the length 75mm with lips 25mm. Any thoughts? Dave

I like the tube idea, I think it would work without adding weight. Very easy to make too. There would be optimum dimensions for maximum dive, so trial and error would be required. Dave

The point is not the cost, but for a thorough mix. A concave surface with no corners is always going to be superior. Beer can bottom is the best of all, I have used it many times. A single can bottom can be wiped and re-used many times. Dave

My experience with polyester resin is that it shrinks. This is the biggest single issue. I have not tried your suggestion of coating pop molds, but I would expect the surface coating to fracture or at least separate/peel. Could be worth a try though as neither material is expensive. As for hard bait casts; the resin is still soft when de-molded. I place the lure halves on a flat surface for a day before glued assembly, with a sand bag or water bag to keep pressure without damaging the cast. If you are making the mold itself from resin then distortion is no surprise. the different thicknesses of the mold shrink at different rates. I am surprised the the mold did not fracture. Dave

If you don't find what you are looking for, this is my solution for small mixes of epoxy. Wrap a ball of modelling clay with plastic kitchen wrap and press into a shallow dish shape with your thumbs. Stir with spatula with no sharp edges. I like to sand the edges with 200 - 400 grit. Advantages: quick, cheap, re-usable, easy clean-up. Dave

I would have a small tube chamber with 3 - 4 small steel balls in the front end for making the noise. I would fix the rear weight as that is the critical balance. Dave

Moving weights in a spook is going to be problematic unless you use a steel ball and a magnet. Spooks should fly well anyway with their traditional weighting. I am currently designing a shifting weight lure, but I have a deep body and gravity in my favour. Dave

JR - I remember our many discussions on the subject. Nailed it, you did good Dave

Scary thought Dave

I just paint black or white, depends if I shooting video. Dave

Hey Voodoo, confusion is my job. Stay out of it Dave

I experimented with rear lips on one-piece baits. Interesting movements are available to the experimenter. Hope your pain subsides soon, and look forward to the video Dave

I would sooner do my own distribution. I have family in USA who would be glad of the extra income as a distribution center. Dave

Shop mark-ups are outrageous! We're the ones doing the work and taking the risks! Dave

The mold maker needs CAD data to create the mold. Either you provide the CAD model or he creates it from the sample that you provided. Once the mold maker has this data you are at his mercy. He doesn't need to make a mold to sell on, he could simply sell the CAD data or the NC driving data. Hypothetically; if a mold company was snowed under with work or a more lucrative job came in, he might sub-contract your job to a second company, providing them with the electronic design. Once again, your design control is lost. Strangely enough, it is not about providing the best, confidential service to the customer, it is about making money. This is not a racist comment, and not all Chinese are crooks out to rip you off, but it is ALL about the $$$ at the end of the day. If making that dollar means trampling your fragile business sensibilities, well too bad! This if the general Chinese psych, everyone who does business with Chinese companies know this fact, not just Americans. Dave

Good read, thanks. Dave