Vodkaman

Alsworms - a general mold makers forum would work. There are enough mold related threads to justify, AND, nearly all CAD design is mold related. Good plan. Dave

I like the screw head adjuster. Dave

Alsworms - I for one appreciate the moderation work that you do. Definitely on the ball. Mark - Yes, the subject doesn't seem to fit anywhere and needs its own forum. BUT, first we have to prove that there is enough interest and material to justify a forum. In the mean time, I think it is important to keep the design threads all in one place. As there are likely to be soft-bait and wire-bait related threads, if we settle on the hard-bait forum, I think it could get confusing. I reluctantly propose the hybrid tackle forum. Dave

I have been thinking along these lines for quite some time, thinking about CAD modeling techniques. Yes, you should start the thread. Not sure which forum it should go. Perhaps Kurt could jump in here and give his opinion. Dave

I would just add, Don't skimp on the plaster, make your plaster molds deeper than you think necessary. Plaster, once dried, is very brittle and will easily fracture, especially if applying internal pressure. Just lightly clamping will fracture the mold if it is too thin. I also recommend load spreader plates for the clamping, point loads cause problems. Dave

Unfortunately, I did not save the text. Dave

The system crashed and so a few days worth of posts were lost. Looks like this was one of them. Pity, it was a good thread. Dave

JR - I use the simple, paper glue stick. This has worked fine for me. Yes, if you let the glue dry out too long (days), it will tend to peel. I generally stick the paper down and start work on the lip within minutes, not hours. What I really like, is the lack of clean-up required on removal. Peal, then soak and clean in warm, soapy water. Dave

I found a slightly larger diameter cutting wheel. It was also a bit thicker at around 1/16". I found this bit very useful for cutting slots. Usual woodworking rules apply; go slow and let the cutter do the work. It is important to cut the slot slightly wider than the cutter, otherwise it binds with the contact on both top and bottom surfaces. Keep working the cutter from side to side, to reduce the friction and prevent the binding. Dave

John - congratulations on making it. The change-over is a critical time, the secret is to keep busy and keep your mind active. The grueling work schedule you endured for 45 years must be replaced gradually, sudden change is the enemy. You have an advantage over many in your position, you have a hobby that you really enjoy, use it. Dave

Great vid, as always. Awesome fishing! Dave

You have to carve a hollow to fit the masters, you cannot simply push them in. Even if you could, the displaced clay will just bulge up and spoil the line. You can find clay tools in most hobby shops and very cheap. I have always used kids modelling clay. It is very soft and easy to work with. But it may transfer color to the mold, but this does not matter to me. Most members use a clay called Skulpy. Dave

I think you should continue with this thread, I think enough people are interested in your progress. Do a Google search 'lure x-ray' and select 'images', there are a lot of pics to look at. What you have done looks reasonable. Try a float test in a bucket of water. Dave

Metal Guru Dave

Another great video, thanks. A most interesting lure. I have nothing to contribute, except to say that there are so many adjusters here. I am intrigued by the small rear wings, and wonder if they serve any purpose. Dave

Well, good luck hitting centre every time Dave

Do you have a through drilling jig in mind yet. If not, I can help you there. Dave

Next, a couple of different sized flap-wheels. Manage you drill bits. Keeping them all in a jar becomes a real pain. A drill press vise is very useful. The drill press is going to be used for lots of jobs other than lure building, so other bits like wire brush, buffing wheel and soap, will all get used occasionally. And more, even paint stirring. You will be making jigs, for through drilling from both ends of a lure, that meet in the middle. The drill press is a great tool, so many uses. Get used to managing the spindle speeds. Dave

No, heat set and immediately topcoat. Without a top coat, heat set or not, the paint will rub and chip off in no time. Dave

I suggest a blob of a soft glue. You may have to experiment with different types. I would be starting with something like a standard tube of UHU rubber cement. Dave

In addition to Basseducer's suggestion above, the createx must be heat set to fix the paint. This is done with a hair dryer. Plenty of reading on this subject under the search function. Dave

It was a joke mate. You have been here long enough for us to know that. Sorry for your misunderstanding, but I did put a smiley face, to make things clear. Dave

Dale - the same thought occurred to me too; is Richard actually Mr Dinger There are lots of threads on the subject of patents, which is what I think you are interested in, but there is always room for a fresh one. A new thread would be better as it would be easier to find in the future, with a meaningful title. Dave

In my experience, hinged swim-baits are not as difficult as they may appear. Yes, they are certainly more involved in the build, with the hinges and multiple sections to ballast. A lot of planning to get all the hardware to fit into the small spaces. But, my success rate is 100% I literally cannot remember ever having a hinged swimmer that I failed to get working. I certainly could not say the same for crank-baits, which has been my main build experience. The most important thing with hinges, is total freedom of movement. Not even the slightest rub is acceptable. The swimmers that did not work first time, were solved by fixing rubbing hinges. Length distribution is probably important. The nose section slightly longer than the rest. But a precise formula is not necessary, there seems to be a lot of leeway. I use something like 3:2:2:2 I have read of others using 2:1:1:1. Look through the gallery and web and see what proportions others have used. Ballast low down for a vertical swim. I like to ballast mine so that all the bait floats horizontal, believing that this relieves rubbing at the hinges. Others think this is not necessary. Many do not ballast the rear section whereas I generally do if possible. My point is that there is no fixed formula, the baits work. Dave

Archery1 - I was not 'Trumped' by your comment Dave