Vodkaman

Jonister - I agree, the lure must survive the rocks. I cannot think of any test that can be done in the workshop that would simulate a cast into the rocks. BUT, this test only has to be done once for any topcoat. The only way, is to go to the rocks and do a 30 yard cast into them. The reason why a drop onto a hard floor or a hammer blow does not give the right information, is that under casting conditions, the lure is traveling always tail first and at a slower velocity and thus less force. The lure could fail the two workshop tests and still be viable in the real world. Dave

Jig Man's idea is good engineering, I like it. Dave

Bassinfool - I am on the British Embassy list for email notifications, also monitoring the news for Bandung every 30 minutes. There are terrorists based in Bandung, but there is also a powerful national anti terrorist police called Densus 88. They have arrested more than a dozen suspects in the last two weeks in several raids across the country, including one house raided in Bandung last Sunday. A low-powered explosive went off in Bandung city's main square, Alun-Alun, which is a park area. No one was injured in the blast, but at 01:20am New years was being celebrated with some fervor. Four suspects have been arrested over the New Year's Eve bombing. Police may seem rather sedentary in everyday life, but when it comes to serious crime, they are right on the ball - good to know. Dave

JR - I had assumed that it was a hard body, I didn't research it, just ran with the problem. Thinking further on the hard body solution, it does not need to be latex. It might be better with a filler, that you can kneed into position in one go. Possibly an epoxy putty or something similar. Dave

Guys - I am overwhelmed with the kind offers. A chance to work with Bob, and maybe develop that CNC duplicator machine that I have inside my head. A chance to build some baits with Mark, share ideas and come up with some new ones, and of course, to fish in Mark's back yard. Dave

JR - that gave me an idea: Make the first half mold of the outer shape. Paint layers of latex inside the cavities until the desired thickness is achieved. Pour the second half. Remove the latex. You now have a two part mold of a thin walled bait. Dave

I just looked at a few Google images. Assuming the bait with the hollow under the chin. This is not a lathe bait, I suggest start with square section. I would be using my belt sander for this one. Interesting looking bait. I can see a walk the dog with a rolling shimmer from the under chin shape. My first thought was that it was intended as a falling bait, but I saw a video with Mr Suick and he said that it was not. The standard WTD lure does not put any vibration out, it glides between pulls, whereas the Suick will put out a shimmering vibration as it glides. This could make the difference - clever design. Dave

Joel - I would say as thin as you can get, 0.010" ten thou' sounds reasonable. The 3D shape of the form gives the package structural stiffness, enough for the job. The vacuum part of the operation is quite straight forward, especially with such thin materials. It doesn't take too much research to get up to speed on what is required. If you are just producing a few airbrush spray masks for gill plates and perch stripes and so on, then nothing more than a coffee tin setup would be required. BUT, if you are producing a reasonable number of lures, then you don't want to be spending hours making individual trays. You want to hit it for a couple of hours and produce enough trays for a month. It is all down to your numbers, if these are high, then you may need something that can draw a quarter sheet, 4' x 2'. With this kind of size, the shop vac is not going to cut it. Now you are in to proper professional vacuum pumps. Then there is the problem of heating the plastic sheet. A hair drier or blow torch is just not going to hack it. The kitchen oven is just too small, so you are going to have to build an electric resistance coil heater/oven. Managing the electrics is going to take some research for a project this size. It all starts so simple, but can very quickly get out of hand. It is all very possible and there are dedicated websites to help you at this level. When you are at a stage were you need to take on employees to help with the production, then you need to do the fiscals and see if it works, or cheaper and a lot less hassle to buy. Dave

Archery1 - nothing wrong with what you have written. I must say that the events in Europe are making me extremely nervous. Probably sooner than later, the real fighting is going to start and it is going to be real nasty, and when it does, it is going to have repercussions over here. Dave

Dale - Yes you can of course. But before the bait mold can be machined, it must be converted to the machine's language. I am already there. My baits start the same way as yours; with imagination, a pencil and paper. Usually, as far as I go on CAD, would be some 2D PDF printouts for lips and body profiles, then to the wood shop. But lately I have been exploring new technology, were I can go from CAD directly to the mold. If the molded lure was successful, I could then go directly to the machine shop. I get quite a few jobs, were I am sent a JPG file of a thumbnail sketch of a lure idea. I then take that sketch and create a 3D model that the machinist can work with. This is a time consuming service that has to be paid for. If you make a master and mold, you will never need my services. While we're here, anyone contemplating getting a lure idea professionally CNC machined, SHOULD make a master and mold in RTV. Lures do not always work first time. It might take 2 or 3 or more prototypes before you get it to swim how you want, also the fish might not like it. Once you are happy with the lure, cast a few and send to the machinist. He may well be able to do the CAD work himself, if too complicated or time consuming, he will send it to someone like me. Dave

That is a reasonable plan. I am actually thinking along the same lines. I have an advantage in that I am CAD proficient, which is essential unless you have deep pockets. Dave

Centigrade - I hope you get more involved in the building side one day. Dave

Thanks for the concern guys, AND for the offers, most heart warming I must say. Dave

I doubt that the viscosity would allow it to 'soak in', but the heat the blank thing just might improve the keying. Slicing one is a good idea, to see what is going on. Dave

Basseducer - Many thanks for your concern. 70 miles is not far at all, close enough for me to initiate an escape plan, should things escalate. I live in the 3rd largest city on Java and I live on the outskirts of the city and rarely go into town, so relatively safe for now. The trigger point is if it starts in Bandung. If so, it will take five minutes to pack my bags which are already by the front door. My motorbike taxi is on speed dial and I will be at the airport in 30 minutes. I will move to Thailand and set up there, unless anyone wants an in-house lure designer Dave

I wonder if this has anything to do with the Chinese fiscal crisis. Dave

Smallmouthaholic - Indeed. I keep posting because occasionally someone new 'gets it'. There is actually a very small number of members who follow what I write and a couple who I am in constant contact by email and Skype. We share our projects and detailed thoughts. This I enjoy and it is enough to keep me enthused. I am also prepared to put the time in to help individual questions and my PM is always open. As for the non-believers, those who think my ideas, theories and methods are tedious, well that is fine too. Just keep it to yourselves and stop trying to spoil the perfectly good day that I am enjoying. Dave

I am working on a similar project at the moment, a hollow perch. My solution is to mold the hollow body in two halves and glue together. Hillbilly1 put out a video of the method several years ago, see post No4. Dave

Barr5150 - the lamp is heating the body, causing the air within to expand. If the body is already warm, then the air will contract as the body cools. This should stop the bubbles and may even give slightly better adhesion, as the fluid gets drawn into the pores. As usual with my ideas, it is theoretical, but it has to be worth a try, not much effort required. Dave

I use the same method, with UHU rubber glue. I will have to keep my eyes open for the Elmers, though doubt they have it over here - good tip. Dave

Barr5150 - have you tried heating your blanks before dipping. Ten minutes in an open door low heat oven. If it worked, you could make a lamp heated box for production. Dave

Barr5150 - WOA!! that is some serious setup, love it. Dave

Barr5150 - thanks for posting, good information. What a super price, no way home made can compete with that. Dave

I am talking about regular resin, not UV cure. The cause and effect are similar, the rapid cure. one part of the surface cures, the rest is still moving and a wave forms. Regular epoxy thickens slowly, so no wave forms. Dave

This sounds very similar to an effect that I got when experimenting with polyester resin. The problem was that the resin went from a liquid to a plastic phase in only seconds. As the fluid rolled around the body on the wheel, it kinda froze in position rather than gradually leveling out. As soon as you stop turning and go to the curing lamp, the fluid is drawn by gravity. The lamp cures one part of the surface, but the fluid is still moving and backs up, causing the wave. I suggest that you allow the body to drip longer to achieve a thinner coat. This removes the excess which is rolling about on the body. Dave