rhahn427

Could't have said it better myself

Panache makes a pretty decent airbrush and the compressor is made specifically for airbrushing so why not try it .......... it's made for airbrushing and not the big bulky general purpose stuff or the off brand junk. Panache is a quality airbrush manufacturer so I would not just junk it. I have 2 Airstar V's that are made for airbrushing and they are small quiet and work great.

Oops ........ it was supposed to say alcohol torch ........ it uses denatured alcohol you can get in any hardware store. The torch is an old dental tool that I got off ebay I haven't put another finish on a rod ...... just re wrapped/replaced the guides

I like an alcohol instead of a heat gun if I need to use heat. I can pinpoint the heat right on the top of the guide foot and not have to be concerned about damageing the blank with the wider coverage of the heatgun. But most of the older rods that I've rewrapped did not need the heat because the finish had worn to where I just needed to cut the remaining finish and the thread. Just make sure you cut on the guide foot so you don't damage the blank.

George You can't compare a production rod to a custom made rod. If you are looking for price then go to WalMart etc. Custom made rods are hundreds of $ if someone makes one for you and about $150 + for just materials for a Musky custom and then there is the equipment to build. Good guides can cost much more than $30. That said, once you catch a fish on a rod you made ....... you're hooked and won't go back. The Utmost prices that you looked at had a 25% discount on that I don't think you knew about. If you want to practice. Strip an old rod of the guides and re wrap them ....... cut up an old rod, get some cork and make some handles. Find some rod building websites and books and study and talk to some rodbuilders. You can contact me if you want.

Check utmost - Page: 1 of 6 ......... they sell Batson Blanks and closing out on cork .........

I'll take it ...... PP ok?

Thanks

Ok ....... where did you get a 2 piece RTV mold for $9 from a business ........ I'd love to place an order ........

Hey guy ........ you really need to price some swimbait molds ....... $20 is a great price ...... Never had anything but great service and quality products from Bear

On the Huntforbigfish website ..... it's in the estore ........ it's great

......... as for the video ...... I got it for Fathers Day .......... guys it's the best I've ever seen ........ instant classic ......... 2 hours of the stuff he touches on in the shows ....... also some new concepts I hadn't thought about ......... like using 2 different RTV types for certain 2 part molds and the acrylic jig section was really interesting to me .........

I just talked to a guy yesterday that offered me some for sale. I wasn't interested so I didn't get a price. Let me know if you are interested and I'll contact him to see if he is interested. Thanks Rick

you can do it with dremel tool ......... I adapted a spirepoint mold to make giant spinnerbaits for trolling for stripers

Not sure exactly what it is either but you can buy it in almost any hardware store.

If there is a thick school of baitfish we suspend a weighted trebble hook under them and jerk hard or cast just past them and jerk and reel ......... catch one ..... put it on a hook and cast it out and wait ......... usually not long

I'll take the curly tail

Which is better for making molds, urethane or silicone RTV? Also is there a use for each? urethane RTV seems to be about 1/2 the price of silicone.

Check out the Classifieds ........ someone has a bunch of colors for sale .......

This post never appeared in the new posts section ....... can anyone explain why?

Hope someone can point me in the right direction. I'm making some huge spinner baits for large stripers and I need clevises that will fit .090 stainless steel wire but I can't find them. So far I've had to buy the biggest I can find and drill them out to where they only have a very thin bit of metal left. Seems like the biggest is about .08 to be used for .061 wire Any help is appreciated.

The egg shell must get to about 325-350 degrees I think for powder paint to melt and stick to the egg shell. I think it would be hard to get it to that temp with the egg inside because it would have a tendency to absorb the heat, therefore it needs to be blown out and the blow holes remain open incase there is any moisture left that would expand and explode the heated shell. I'm not sure that the temp resistance is of an egg shell but I believe it would be higher if an even heat was administered on all sides at once. That would mean an oven instead of a heat gun. Then there would be the coating of the egg with powder paint. Putting a hot eggshell in a cool fluid bed of powderpaint may also crack the shell so you may have to warm the paint and pour it on the shell ............ Just some thoughts ........ I think you need to research the properties of egg shell to get a better idea.

Email sent

David I followed the instructions and dipped and dried until O have some great sealed cork saltwater popper with a great finish and has dried for days. I put in water in the sink to check the balance and see how it would float. When I took it out it felt almost slimey, like a small film of the finish was softening and coming off on my hand. THe finish didn't feel as hard as when it was dry. Is this normal ? ..... Is there something else I'm supposed to do? I wanted to finish balancing and testing before I started to paint.