tightliner

Thanks for the info guys. After I seal my master do I have to put anything else on it so the plaster won't stick to it? Thanks again.

Hello all Need a little help if you can. I made a model of a lure I want to reproduce via pop mold. The model is made of wood and I need to know what to seal the wood with before I go further. Any help would be much appriciated, thanks.

After alot of help from the guys on this site I finally got DN working well for me. Bob,Mark, Lure Prof,others, thanks.I lightened up on the paint with the help of a new Iwata,better atomization, dried the heck out of each paint layer, and,,,,,,,,I stopped using a heat box to accelerate the curing process. Heating metal is alot different than heating a base layer of paint, has to do with expansion, contraction, and alot of other stuff thats over my head. Anyway, I'd do as the guys taught me,dry the paint , dip it , hang it in the garage. Best of luck! Ed.

Thanks Dean. I think you're onto to it with just createx. Some of the junk paint I use because of price my be the culprit along with not heat setting enough. Between your advice and Bobs,I bet I get it right. Thanks so much guys! Ed

An easy stencil material I use is Pelon, the stuff that stiffens the skirt on a sofa. You can use them alot more times than you would think, just dry the the overspray, flip it over paint the other side of the lure. Pelon is easy to cut with an exacto. I use a stencil cutter(wood burning knife)as well with a fine tip for irregular stripes and other detail. Plasic of course is a longer lasting stencil , once you cut one should last for years.

I can understand your frustration with that. I can honestly say that without this site and all the guys that have helped me either with a direct response or reading a post, I would not be enjoying the craft as I do today. With that being said, I'd like to thank you and everyone else that took the time to share they're opinions and knowledge. Thanks,Ed.

Thanks for the reply Bob. I dip the lure . I really would like to switch to DN almost exclusively if I can get it right. I really like the thin, one coat process and DN is really hard. Any step process instruction would be great if you have the time. Thanks alot, Ed.

Hello all! Yes another Dick Nites question! Half or more of the lures I dip with DN still come out with a puddled or uneven finish, kind of like ckicken pock marks. I heat set the heck out of the water based paint and primer and still seem to have a problem with a nice smooth finish. There is no doubt that DN is a super hard finish I just have a problem getting it right. Could it be the primer coat? I have been using folk art white and dry the heck out of it. I use Createx for most of my other colors. I know some of you guys have mastered DN. I still think its worth trying to get it right if not just for the ease of getting a superior finish with little effort. I realize this subject has been beat to death but I would really appriciate any good advice. Thanks alot, Ed. PS- Perhaps laying on paint to thick?

Thanks for the advice guys! Never used a" stream lined" brush before. I've only used my Paasche VL's and Badger Crescendo's for years. Both are fat as cigars . Looking forward to the Iwata. Thanks again, Ed.

Hello all! Was hoping some of the ol' grizzlys in here could help me decide on my next airbrush. I've got my eye on the IWATA REVOLUTION BR, and the Thayer Chandler (badger) Vega 1000. Both cost about the same but I have used neither. They do have the features I am looking for. If any one could offer an opinion or advice that would be great. Thanks. Ed

Hi Guys! Wondering if someone could advise me on the density/tension that is comparable to the weed guards on the eakin's finesse jig. I've seen several types but I've never ordered any . The jig I'm talking about is the 5/16oz. finesse jig with the fiber weed guard. Thanks alot. Ed.