JBlaze
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Everything posted by JBlaze
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Some of you guys/gals may want to look for a pair of these, I found these tongs in a markdown bin at a local grocery store. Came home and grabbed an old plug with them and a rattle can of gloss black. I think them are going to be very useful and are also easy to use. John
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genious, let us know how they work John -
WOW! don't know how I missed seeing this one, That is an awesome pattern and a great looking jig. Good Job. and like others commments, it is hard to believe this is a first. Personally, I like the flair as it tends to flair and breathe as you pause or hesitate with your retrieve. Another hair that does this (breathing look) very well is Artic Fox Tail if you can find it. John -
took it to Douglas Lake last night, fished it most of the night until 2:30 this morning. It runs perfectly horizontal with a fluke attached and has a great vibration. I had two problems with it, first I never caught a fish and second the blade arms are too short. On a few casts, the blades would catch a piece of hair and wind it up around the swivel and quit spinning. I think about another ½ inch in length on each side should stop that. The fish are down around 30 ft and I may have been getting this thing down to about 20. It weighs in at ¾oz but climbs as it is retrieved. I have another one that is 1¼ guess I will have to get it tied and go back. John -
will do.
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This is how it balances itself in the water. I think with a fluke or swimbait, that it will run slightly in a tail up position. Hope to give it a few casts tomorrow afternoon.
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Some time ago, I started making a bladed bait out of this mold. With the blade attached to its back, it has excellent balance in the water. I next modified it to be a swim bait head with three blades two on the sides and one on the belly. Ben tied a hair jig in a sexy shad a few days ago and for some reason it got me to thinking about making a buck tail chatter style jig with side blades. Its been a long time since I have tied a hair jig and the next one should look a little better But here is what I came up with. The side arms are a titanium wire which was inserted through the mold. it has a v in the center of its length to keep it from pulling out of the head should it get tangled or hooked on something. The head is painted with powder paint using Cadmans," Tap A Brush " method. Using it as a swimbait head, it came through the water with just a slight tail up position. Almost level, I am hoping it will do the same as a vibrating bladed jig. Hope you like it. John -
Your'e welcome and I have. I poured a couple of heads today, a 3/4 oz and an 1¼ oz version and used Cadmans tap a brush to paint them a sexy shad color.They are D2T coated and on the lure turner right now. Hope I have time tomorrow after work to tie them. Then bend the blades and attach. Also, I think I will put a grip pin/bait holder of some type on them, I think I like the one that Arron Martin makes. Will post when done. John -
Ben, it looks really good. John
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Ben, that really looks good, great job. I really like it! You have given me an idea. I have about every color bucktail there is and haven't tied any hair jigs in a long time. I make a heavy chatterbait style jig using the ultra minnow mold. The hook eye is spread open and the blade is attached to its back. It works really well. I think I will give this a shot. Thanks for sharing and the motivation. John -
Walking Dead, that is special. I like it. John -
If there was any difference, it was so insignificant that I never noticed it.
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I use soft, only because that is what I have right now. I have used cleaned tire weights which are a harder lead. process is the same for me with either. John
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Jaw, I too have this same affliction. A few years ago, I gave all of mine to my wife to use in a rummage sale. All of it new stuff probably a couple of hundred bags. She sold them for 25¢ a bag. I accumulated another fairly large collection again and just recently found someone I work with who bank fishes. I asked him if he would use them if He had them. he answered yes and was glad to get them. I felt much better about that than letting unknowns have them for practically nothing. John
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hold the jig body in hand, grab spru with a pair of regular pliers and twist it off leaves a slight rough area that is easy to smooth by scraping with a knife edge or just a few strokes with a fingernail file.
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Jonister , as far as I can tell it is the same stuff. The brand name on the sheets is Bayer Makrolon. I have not had any problems with it. It is crystal clear and easy to work with. John
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Oh no, another one has been infected with lureitis and and the builders diaflopsy. Sorry Bubba, there is no cure!!
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As others have said, you picked a tough one to start out with. Your bait does look good, glad to hear that it was a success. John -
I liked it, and I have a question the tank you were swimming the bait in. Something you made?
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I glued the edges of the tissue to card stock and it went through the printer just fine. I think that was suggested by someone here. Its been a long time.
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Maybe this is what you are looking for. http://lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Plugs-Wood-Bodies/ John
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Oops, forgot to say, I drew the graph first then saved it before printing and measuring the size of the squares so I would know how many squares the bib had to cover to make the size lip that I needed.
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Luke 1 these fellows are right, acrylic will bust very easily. I would hate to see you do all that work only to have your bib crack and ruin your lure. Poly-carbonate or circuit board is the way to go for lips. As far as keeping it symmetrical, Mark's suggestion is a good one. Another way to make a symmetrical lip template is to use the paint program on your computer to draw 1/2 of a lip then using the select tool copy it, flip it and paste it to the other side of the original that you drew. This gives you a perfectly symmetrical lip with a true center line. If you are happy with the way it looks, use the select tool to copy and paste several times. Print it, cut one out glue it ( I use the stick school glue) to a piece of whatever lip stock you use cut it out and sand to the lines with a dremel drum sander. Here are a few examples of some lips that I drew using the paint program. It took me a little while to figure out how to do this but once you learn what the different buttons on the program do, it is pretty easy and you can name and save the file and use it again and again. Hope this helps. John A link to how some of the other guys do things. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/19352-crankbait-lip-making/ I get my poly-carbonate here and have been very happy with their service. http://www.onlinemetals.com/index.cfm
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You make some great looking spinnerbaits, all of them. Good job of painting the heads too. John -
I am impressed. This thing swims very well. Is unique and Looks pretty good too. Looking forward to seeing more. John
