JBlaze

hope this helps

Modifying this mold isn't that difficult, it doesn't take much cutting to do this, I will post a pic in a few minutes. Your Welcome John

You are correct about the head design. It is an old Hilts SBARKY 38 Spnr Bait mold that I converted into a jig mold.

I used a Dremel and did a little work on a Do-It Lure Body Mold and it works just fine for what you are wanting.

Would this be considered a Jig or a Shakey Head? My fishing pard says its a jig, I think its a shakey. John

JSC, you're welcome. You can also mix up a small amount of D2T and put some glitter in it then dip. This also makes nice looking ball ends but it takes longer for the D2T to set up and you will probably need to do it after you have baked the jigs I may be wrong but I don't think the 2T would take the heat. I tried stiffer wire but felt like I missed to many fish. John

Anyone making their own wire weed guards. I tried using these without the little end balls and believe me that little wire is like a hypodermic needle. Unhooking a bass or even putting on a plastic trailer left plenty of punctures in my fingers. I made these out of .011 spring temper wire. They work well and do get bent but are easily straightened back out with your fingers. I mold them in by placing a skirt collar where you would normally put a fiber weed guard and then fold your wire and slide it through the hole in the skirt collar. The little ball ends are made by bending about 1/32 inch of the end of the wire back upon itself then heating it with a heat gun about 1 second and dipping in powder paint. Do this (heat/dip) several times until you get the size paint ball that you want. When baking your jigs, you will want to turn the heat down and bake them for a longer length of time. I baked these at 350º for fifteen minutes and as you can see, a couple of the little ball ends got soft enough to run down the wire. John

I use VMC black spinnerbait hooks. they're very sharp and I havn't had any complaints. I have noticed that occasionally, that I will have one rust . not sure why unless maybe I had used a salty grub on it and put it back in the box.

I have not done this but I know that Vodkaman has and knows how it works. I think he could explain it in great detail.

Gene, I am not sure if you are talking about the hat lights or the new LED's that are probably going to replace the old style black lights that we use on our boats. I have a couple of Stan Sloans that have been very reliable over the years. Last year, I got one of the new LED black lights. It has three LED black light bulbs and one very bright white one. It consumes very little power. I think the biggest difference between the two is the angle of the light it puts out. Not sure I am saying this right but the man in the back of the boat can see his line just as well as the man in the front of the boat. I really do not feel that it is any brighter. One other thing I like about it is its small size. There is never enough space in my boat and it takes up very little. I will not hesitate to get another one when my other lights give up the ghost. JMHO John

Gene, I think your solution to my problem was the quickest way for me to get there and durable too. The tool worked like a charm and was very easy to make. The weight is very snug and it doesn't seem to have weakened or deform the C. Board bill at all. Pics attached. Thanks again. John

Gee Whil-ikers. Lots of great ideas here. I know these will work and look much better than what I did, " So simple a cave-man could have done it". I don't think my brain has evolved to cave-man status yet. Maybe these ideas will help someone else too. Thanks again guys for all your help. John

Don't know but, I like the idea. It just needs to be flat and thin. so as not to create a lot of resistance to the bill shaking back and forth in the water. This crank is thin on the bill end and I have put as much weight there as I can. the 1/32 is the additional weight I needed to get it to sit with the bill pointing down in the water and ready to dive.I put a pic of the crank in this post hope it comes thru. Crank #2 has been to the lake and has the action of a fleeing craw. #1 and #3 have had the bucket test #1 sits level in the water and #3 is a slow sinker. Will give them the lake test tomorrow if not raining.

go to the hardware aisle at Lowes or Home Depot and you will find a bin filled with different sizes and lengths of threaded rods. Probably, yuor local hardware store will have it also John

Need help, this looks awful. Need suggestions on how to do a neater better looking job. I drilled a hole in the CB Bill then inserted a 1/32 oz weight and smaskhed it with Vice Grips. There has to be a better way.

Diemai Like the looks of those bananna lures. When I was young, we trolled for Walleyes using a lure called a Jet Lure. It had the same general shape as your bananna lures and really thumped. I bet yours will too. Thanks for sharing the results of your many hours of expermentimg with these. I am sure it is appreciated by many. John

Hi Dave, I really like the way that bait swerves/swims off course with its smooth fluid side to side movement. Looks like you are well on your way to having it under control. Keep feeding your think tank the brain food, I have always enjoyed your thoughts and ideas. John

VMan, that is incredible. Can't tell in the video but is that thing waggling and rolling while it is hunting? John

I Like It, Hope you finish it and post a pic. I also echo V Mans thoughts, ("I think the little lure looks great. It has character and once painted up will trap the fishermen as well as the fish".)

IMHO, Nothing I've seen lots of good looking grandmas,