longhorn

IMO the very best way to heat plastic is with infrared lamps as I've been doing for 35 years...there are so many advantages to this method. I'm going to build a new worm table for myself sometime in the near future and will take photos of it and make a post. Don't have time now...in process of changing boats.

I would do the math on how much you actually spend on tubes before you assume it would be cheaper to make them. The startup cost plus time plus electricity plus the learning curve adds up to a significant investment...and tubes are not the easiest to make. Good quality generic tubes are about $30 per 100. If you just want to do it because of the challenge and because you want to catch fish on something you made then that's different. Rarely is it cost effective to take up pouring to make a readily available bait like that. There are exceptions, like swimbaits which are so expensive and relatively easy to pour. Not trying to discourage you...new addicts are always welcome on this site.

I think you always have to stir no matter what temp or what you're using to heat with.

I've made some that way too. It's really an easy way to make your own design for thinner things like chunks...so never throw away an old mold..if it's thick enough you can carve on the bottom.

I'd give that an A+ for a first mold. Those will pour great!

I learned this lesson also. Those eyes aren't really made for soft plastic anyway. I seal the eyes by dipping on all my swimbaits. Whether you're fishing them or selling them you don't want the eyes to come off after a little use. Even with dipping if you pour some baits and let them set a for a few days you may experience the eyes not sticking very well. Before I dip I press on both the eyes to make sure they're still in place. Just part of it. Without dipping I don't see how eyes could ever stay on long.

Depends on what you're making. I make all kinds of swimbaits that retail for $2.00 to $9.00 each...that's very cost effective for me since I use them a lot and make even the bigger ones for less than a buck.

This seems like a classic case of pinholes in the mold and coating. This detail is rarely covered on this forum but a small hole in the mold and coating (on POP molds) will cause the bubbling you're talking about. Nothing to do with the plastic temp. I mark the areas where it's bubbling and you can usually tell by looking at the bait and go back and re-coat with an artist brush and straight Elmers in the area where the bubbles are coming from. Then try again. This is just a part of POP mold making. Sometimes a mold will have none of this and other times it will be a pain. When you get it completely sealed it will be fine.

I missed a TU gathering in Missouri because I only go to the soft plastics forum and usually nothing else. Are there plans for any gatherings this year? Thanks and have a great day.

Actually it was this one but it's the same project. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/12952-adding-hook-slot-pop-mold.html?highlight=adding+hook+slot

When I designed my first swimbait I did it solid without a hookslot. It worked just fine but usually the hook tore through the side on the first fish also it was more difficult to rig. I added a hookslot and it solved the tearing problem and is much easier to rig. I don't think the slot will help the bait swim any better though. I like Nova's idea too. I did a post when I added the hook slot in my POP mold but it may work for silicone if you want to make a master to make other molds. Do a search for adding a hook slot and it shows up on the first page. It may give you some ideas. Good luck and let us know how it comes out.

Great, I'd forgotten about that post and just ordered a bigger size of it. Oh well, just have to deal with it. I ordered some MF today and will see what color that is. Have a good evening.

I'm not understanding the question...is this an existing mold or one you're making...sometimes I'm just dense...especially after a few beers.

I just turn the mold over and drain and shake it a few times. On the next coat I do the same and then set the mold upside down to dry (supported on the ends by a bowl or somthing). This will help keep the distribution even. But excess is not a problem in any case...the mix and even straight Elmers dries so thin it doesn't matter.

I'm going to Guntersville April 26 to fish a week and plan to use only swimbaits. I'll let you know how it comes out. Swimbaits are not magic and conditions have to be right...water temp, wind, etc but there is nothing quite like a swimbait bite. I caught my first swimbait fish on Jim's Phantom Shad and have been swimbait crazy ever since. Keep on throwing them at the big G and you'll get bit. I got some big bites last spring on swimmers...fishing out of a pontoon boat. http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt319/longhorn46/IMG_1172a.jpg

I'm speaking of the Phantom Shad on Jim's website...the hook slot area is long so it is a hollow area but the baits are poured and are solid except the hook slot area. It is dipped in clear plastic to seal the colors and eyes so maybe that's where the confusion comes in. I'm sure Jim will comment but I believe I'm correct. Jim's are made from a two-piece aluminum mold. I pour my own designs from open molds with a hook slot and then dip most of the bait to seal it. When rigging the bait you open the hook slot anyway so it's not "hollow" for long. Not trying to be argumentative or negative at all...just trying to get the facts correct and I'm sure Jim will set us all straight. Have a great day.

I also bought Jim's swimbaits and caught a lot of fish on them. That's what inspired me to stop trying to dip the hollow baits. I wouldn't classify them as hollow body...they are solid body with a hook slot. I think of hollow body as the Basstrix that are dipped and the many Chinese clones that are following. I posted a field test a couple years ago where I tried a Basstrix and Jim's Phantom Shad with the same weighted hook...I preferred the swimming of the Phantom Shad. I'm still hooked on swimbaits and never go fishing without one rigged up.

Elmer's can also be painted on full strength if you can reach the entire surface of the cavity with an artist brush. This is actually better than flooding if you have only one or two cavities. I use flooding when I'm making a 10 or 15 cavity mold and am too lazy to paint all of them. Just thought I'd throw this in. Good Luck.

I have done many tests with hollow vs hook slot baits and I agree with Matt....I prefer solid body with hook slot...and they are lots easier to pour. I don't think the hollow body has much of an advantage. The main reason I would not buy any of the hollow body Basstrix knockoffs like Shadalicious is they are all made in China!! Every one of them...and that just sucks.

I use the white Elmer's Glue All.

I would blow out the cavities with air to get rid of the loose paint and then seal with Elmer's. Should work.

Make sure the mold is cured. I use the oven also. An hour or two at 325 depending on the mold thickness. Don't have an exact ratio...50/50 is a good place to start. You can use it thicker also. I mix the glue and water in a 20 oz. Gatorade bottle. I place the mold on a paper plate or tray and simply pour the glue mix on the mold and fill the cavities to overflowing. Then with my finger spread the glue over the top and sides of the mold just to seal them. I leave the mix in the cavities 4 or 5 minutes and then pour out on the plate. Then rub glue on the bottom of the mold to seal it. I pour the excess glue mix back in the bottle for reuse. When using this method it may take a few coats. Sometimes only one Depending on the mold and the mix. Hope this helps.

I use Elmer's mixed with water on a mold that would be very hard or time consuming to paint. On a simple mold I paint with straight Elmer's after the mold is cured. Good Luck.

That's an awesome bait and an excellent job. Give us a report on the fishing. Good Luck.

My advice is to use a known bait that works as a go-by and use the proportions, width to body ratio etc. in your design. Don't copy it exactly but adapt the features into your design. I've designed several that didn't work...the paddle design and the section of body leading up to it seem to be the most critical parts. You can actually get the ratios from photographs so you can look at popular baits online without having to see one in person. Just an idea. Good Luck.