longhorn

I was using Calhoun Soft and since I don't pour every day (or week) it was separated when I wanted to use it. So I had to shake the jug before using it...this causing the bubbles...they always cooked out...just took a while. I finally cooked it all at once...got the bubbles out and poured it on trays then cut it into chunks for later use. This solved the separation issue and the chunks are easy to store and use.

Great idea...thanks Matt.

Thanks for the feedback y'all.

Does this product have a short shelf life or can you keep it a while (a year or more)? Thinking about buying a gallon but wouldn't use it all right away. Thanks.

I add salt for another reason. Some colors will not look like I want unless I add salt (powder...not granules). For example salt and pepper. There's no dye in that color just salt powder and .035 black flake. I pulverize the salt in a blender to get powder. The salt powder makes the plastic slightly cloudy but most importantly makes it reflect light better IMO.

Hey Dude, I admire someone who designs their own baits. Those will get bit

My black dried up. Was able to revive it with thinner which had also mostly evaporated.

For shad I mix violet super hi-lite and silver pearl for the back and blue super hi-lite with silver .015 flake for the belly. One suggestion is to go to the various mfr site e.g. California Swimbabes....their color chart has close-up photos of each color. Good luck and let us see what you come up with.

A respirator and good exhaust. I wouldn't recommend pouring in the house as the smell will not be good and the fumes are probably dangerous to human health.

This sounds like a lot of work to add a tail. What form is the existing lure and tail in...are they soft plastic or hard material? There are other options that may be easier depending on the answer.

I had also planned to make a post today on plastic paint. My LC paint is also all dried up. Is there another source anyone knows of?

Sorry Matt....I shouldn't be so grumpy. We are lucky to have your input on this site.

Matt, As I stated earlier in this post the blades can be removed to pour a solid bait...the RTV doesn't bond to aluminum...so the mold comes out with a slot just like you said but my way seems easier than yours. I also made my blades by tracing a master...though I don't own a band saw or belt sander they came out just fine with tin snips and a file. What exactly was it I didn't think about?

Thanks for the compliments guys...I've been out since Christmas. The inserts are aluminum...don't know the thickness...just something I had. I'm not going to be selling any molds but there is really no reason to pay someone to make a mold. There is nothing secret about it. All you need is time and materials. I've never seen a mold question go unanswered. I would recommend practicing with POP. I make 99% of my molds from POP. Used RTV for this one because I didn't think the thin tail would release very well. All the other swimbait molds I've made are POP and they work really well and so do the baits.

Here's how the mold came out. Will show what it makes when I get back from vacation.

Yes, the masters are poured plastic with an aluminum hook slot piece inserted which will become part of the mold. On RTV molds the aluminum piece can be removed allowing you to pour a solid bait and re-inserted when a slot is wanted. I don't know if the corner guard will withstand the heat of curing resin...my guess would be yes, it would.

I've done that years ago on a grub mold....set a scrap of plexiglas on the tail right away and it worked...just had to trim a little.

Yes...I'm finishing a mold on Christmas. Celebrated at home yesterday and flying tomorrow to spend a week with the grandkids so I have a little time. The masters are taped down to the tray with double-sided permanent Scotch tape. For the box I use plastic corner protector (from Home Depot in 8' lengths). I can cut it to length to fit the particular mold I'm making and stick it down on the tape also. It cuts easily with tin snips. Seal it up with a little masking tape and play doh and it's ready to go. This is an RTV mold so sealing is more important than with POP. The RTV and POP won't bond to the plastic and it can be used over and over.

Amen Benny. I remember Christmas when I was in basic training and also when I was in Viet Nam...not the best of times. Hope our troops can come home soon.

Congratulations on your success..not seeing any attachments.

Wishing y'all a peaceful Christmas and a great new year. Hope your holidays are filled with lots of family, friends and food as we celebrate the birth of Jesus. Looking forward to the new year on this site because who knows what will be invented or discovered!

The LC online catalog says the glitter is plastic based. Maybe they will see this and comment.

I'm old but never too old to learn something. Is the metal steel or aluminum or ? I've only bought glitter from LC and all theirs is plastic base so there I went assuming again. I didn't choose theirs over yours Del...I wasn't aware of your business until I found this site. Unfortunately for me...I've got a lifetime supply of glitter...now that makes me feel old

I always wait to de-mold the master until the POP has gone through it's heating cycle. No need to wait after that...put it in the oven right away.

I've always thought its was some type of mylar. The glitter made for worms is definitely not metal.