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longhorn

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Everything posted by longhorn

  1. These baits look to contain no paint....just poured, colored plastic. Anyone know how this is done? http://www.tackletour.com/previewragobassjam.html
  2. longhorn

    Salt?

    I agree with 152nd....sounds like scorching to me...never had salt of any brand discolor plastic.
  3. Thanks and I hope you did too!
  4. longhorn

    9" Swimmies

    Great work...those'll get bit...nothing quite like a swimbait bite.
  5. longhorn

    Fumes?

    I would highly discourage pouring indoors...the fumes as mentioned may be toxic and I suspect they could also be dangerous to your lungs kind of like cigarette smoke. Always wear a good respirator 100% of the time when pouring plastic. You could always move down south where we can pour plastic in the garage and fish all 12 months
  6. I've noticed the site being not used a lot...what are we fighting about?
  7. Yes, that's one of the ways a sprue cavity can be made...you can use play doh also and all sorts of other things I've read about on here. Make sure it's big enough. I think a frog would take a bigger sprue cavity than a stick...just my opinion...based on mistakes I made with some early molds. Good luck with your mold and let us see how it comes out.
  8. Did a little survey at a big tackle store today to see where the hollow body swimbaits were made. I didn't see one that was made in the USA. A little sad. All the more reason to support the guys on here that sell only baits poured in the USA. Tsunami: China Bass Magic: China Berkley Hollow Belly: China Berkley Real Stix: China Strike King Shadalicious: China H2O Express: Guatemala Yum Money Minnow: Mexico Storm: China Big Bite Supershad: Guatemala
  9. There was much discussion in the past on this but I think it was pyrex cups. A simple way might be to cut an aluminum divider to fit and then use JB Weld to attach it to the pan. Let us know what you end up doing. Good Luck.
  10. My favorite swimbait today is my 3.25" Threadfin Shad. Caught 14 bass on it today in East Texas.
  11. I have some experience with home made hand injection molds. I made this mold around 1980. The material is plexiglas and the coating is...yes, Elmers glue-all uncut. I "hand machined" 10 of these molds with a dremel tool. I use a screw and wingnut to hold the mold together. I can shoot 10 5" grubs in about a minute...but haven't used these molds or a 5" grub in years. I have wondered if this material would machine like aluminum for the CNC molds. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/attachments/soft-plastics/3898d1227279510-custom-bait-first-pour-cimg0202.jpg
  12. Good work! Those will get bit
  13. I would not pour in the house. Use the carport....you're in Austin so you really have no winter:) My son lives in Austin and I fish Ladybird and Lake Austin when I visit. Good Luck.
  14. If you're going to brush it on a big open mold like a sluggo I would use straight Elmer's with no water. I use the Elmer's water mix for flooding...when I'm brushing I use straight Elmer's. Will take less coats that way. Some molds take only one coat.
  15. Ghost swimbaits are awesome. The first swimbaits I caught fish on and turned me into a swimbait fanatic. Jim has shared knowledge with everyone on this site.
  16. I started to reply this morning but reached the same conclusion you did, Jim:nuhuh:
  17. I agree with Dave. Give the mold another coat of seal. When this happens to me I mark the problem areas of the mold and can usually see the pinhole. Just part of POP mold making.
  18. Lurecraft has that mold....5X896...or so it looks to me.
  19. You also might look at the Lurecraft 5X301 mold....looks like a fish doctor to me and would save you a bunch of trouble and you could get right to pouring. Just a thought.
  20. I poured with a two-burner hot plate for a long time....yes, you have to be careful not to burn the plastic but pouring with a hot plate is doable. I recently thought that it might be good to make a little stand of some sort so your pan is an inch or so off the burner. Don't know if this would work or not but sounds like it might reduce the scorching. You'll have to regulate your plastic temp by removing the pan (s) from the burners and putting them back on and doing lots of stirring. You can't leave a pan on the burner without stirring for very long. One thing I know for sure is pans are much easier to pour from than Pyrex, especially with open molds where you need a thing stream of plastic. If I had to pour with Pyrex I think I'd give up. Good Luck.
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