gldnbear93

also try a golf club componant seller. That's where I got mine a few years ago. Can't remember the ame of the company though

here is a cut and paste for his show schedule on versus: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 2:00PM - 2:30PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDFriday, February 27, 2009 11:30AM - 12:00PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDFriday, February 27, 2009 8:00PM - 8:30PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDFriday, February 27, 2009 8:30PM - 9:00PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) Columbia peacock bass Larry travels to columbia looking for a big peacock bass.Friday, February 27, 2009 11:00PM - 11:30PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDFriday, February 27, 2009 11:30PM - 12:00AMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) Columbia peacock bass Larry travels to columbia looking for a big peacock bass.Saturday, February 28, 2009 11:30AM - 12:00PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDMonday, March 02, 2009 4:00AM - 4:30AMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDWednesday, March 04, 2009 2:00PM - 2:30PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDThursday, March 05, 2009 7:00PM - 7:30PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDFriday, March 06, 2009 2:00AM - 2:30AMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDFriday, March 06, 2009 11:30AM - 12:00PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDFriday, March 06, 2009 4:00PM - 4:30PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDFriday, March 06, 2009 8:00PM - 8:30PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDFriday, March 06, 2009 8:30PM - 9:00PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) Seychelles Islands Trevally While stalking bonefish, Larry runs into the toughest customer he's ever encountered on the flats, a fish called the Giant Trevally.Friday, March 06, 2009 11:00PM - 11:30PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDFriday, March 06, 2009 11:30PM - 12:00AMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) Seychelles Islands Trevally While stalking bonefish, Larry runs into the toughest customer he's ever encountered on the flats, a fish called the Giant Trevally.Saturday, March 07, 2009 11:30AM - 12:00PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDMonday, March 09, 2009 4:00AM - 4:30AMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDWednesday, March 11, 2009 2:00PM - 2:30PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G) HUNT FOR BIG FISH TBDThursday, March 12, 2009 7:00PM - 7:30PMHUNT FOR BIG FISH WITH LARRY DAHLBERG (TV-G)

to form the wire loop at the tail end of the bait check out this link post #6-alas I no longer have the photos though. Yake Bait modified this method to do the loops in plain wire as well-I believe it is posted in the tutorials. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/10506-bending-0-062-wire-loops.html hope this helps I may still have the pictures. If the tail loop is what you are looking for PM me your email and if I have the pics I can email later tonight.

If you have a drill press and your baits will have a stright wire line through them try this method: Use a piece of plywood as a flat base on top of your drill press table. Drive a nail from the bottom so the point just sticks up through the top of the plywood (the point of the nail, or screw, will be pointing up toward the chuck of the drill). You can do this with a dowel center as well. Then chuck a long bit in the drill and line up the point of the nail so it is exactly in line with the point of the drill bit. Clamp the plywood to the drill press table and lock everything down so it does not move. Replace the long bit with a regular jobber. Place the rear end of your bait on the point of the nail and line the bait vertically so you can drill into the nose of the bait. Drill into the nose. Use a fast drill speed and press slowly (this helps reduce bit wandering). Back out the bit as needed if the spirals clog with wood chips. Turn the bait over and place the hole you just drilled over the nail, screw or dowel center. Then drill into the tail end of the bait using the same method described above. Your two holes, if they have not met already should be perfectly in line. If you have a larger bait, you can replace the bit in the press with a longer bit or finish with a longer bit in a hand drill. There is no need for a vise to hold the bait. I know guys who use this method just holding the bait in the drill press by hand and have never had a problem. If you are more comfortable using a vise or building a jig to hold the bait vertically, by all means do so. A couple things to keep in mind: Start out with a shorter bit; longer bits tends to wander more easily, if you start with a short bit then you have a MUCH better chance of getting these holes to line up properly; Use a fast RPM on the drill press but drive the bit SLOWLY into the bait; this will help reduce wandering as well; if you can, get ahold of bradpoint bits with the spurs ground off these help in the wandering aspect as well, also the point is defined and easy to locate.This works for off center drilling as well. Also here is a post from Hazmail with a visual: Get a block of wood, drill it , cut a head off a nail and insert it in the hole, point up (tight fit). Place block of wood on the drill bed, lower the desired drill size down until it is centered with nail - clamp block of wood at this centre - lower drill press bed. Place lure, bottom center on nail - Centre top through wire mark and drill hole through until it meets nail - should get you perfect centre. Sorry about 'centre' but thats how it is in English. pete

for purely decorative work-curly cherry birch or maple are beautiful (cherry is my favorite), birdseye maple, kingwood, zebrawood, canarywood, almost any burl has lots of figure (cherry, maple, walnut), tulipwood, rosewood, olive less to no figuring but nice colors-purpleheart, padauk, yellow heart, bloodwood, walnut,

got the badger off ebay for short money. if you have a michaels or ac moore around they both carry them and almost always have a 40-50% coupon in the sunday papers.

I have a badger and an iwata compressor, both are quiet. I paint in the basement and vent out a window-even wit the basement door open, the wife cannot hear the complressor and the kids whose room is directly above do not hear a thing.

I mounted a wally wolrd rotisserie inside a big plastic storage bin. I mount and clear all the plugs then switch on the motor put the lid on and leave it for a day.

I thru drill almost all my plugs (some smaller oddball stuff I am using screw eyes) on a lathe. For sealing, I soak the wood bodies in a mixture of val-oil/mineral spirits mixed about 60/40. Warm the blanks first to get better penetration. This will seal the wood in the thru hole and belly hole. I typically use a swivel in the belly hole rather than a hanger, so the thru hole and belly hole remain open. Let the bodies sit and cure for a couple of days, then proceed with primer, paint, topcoat and hardware (in your preferred order). The last couple of batches that I have done, I also brushed on a couple of coats of devcon thinned with acetone. I do this after the oil mixture has cured. This gives the plug a harder, more durable, exterior surface and also is easier to clean up my paint screwups.

for plugbuilding, I use three chisels 3/4" roughing gouge, 1" OVAL skew, and 1/8" parting tool. for smaller turnings or greater detail get a 3/8" fingernail gouge. sorby are probably about as good as you will find readily available, but the pinnacle tools from woodcraft are great tools for about half the price.

sawdust or silica will work. when i built a clc kayak, both were used as filler when mxing epoxy to goop into the seems or to thicken it. I think one of the first couple of responses though you were refering to sealing the thru hole not necesarily filling it.

I have not heard of anyone doing a double seal like that though I was considering it when I was puzzling through a bait a couple months ago. I have not yet done that bait, bit was going to do a valoil dip then brush on some thinned epoxy. not done yet though,

If you are talking about a clear to go over your paint-that is after you have sealed primed and painted the lure try a couple fo automotive clears- UPOL-this is in a gold can, you can find it on ebay Sherwin Williams Cut In-this is in a white can. If you have a SW store near you this is easy to obtain. Each of these are $8-$12 can. They spray fine coats. You will need multiple coats for a better finish. These are good easy quick options, but NOT as sturdy as an epoxy clear like devcon or etex or mirror coat and it will wear off fairly easily if you are going for musky or dragging over rocks. Drop by a body shop and see if they have any cans of cut in (generic term-not the SW product though they may have it). If they have some ask to buy a can of it and see if it does what you want it to do.

filling and sealing are two different things. For sealing the entire plug (water repellance) many of us saltwater builders use a 60/40 BLO/mineral spirit mix, or 60/40 valoil/mineral sprit mix. This does not fill the holes. It does NOT create a hard barrier. it does seep into the wood and sheds water. Most of us thru drill on a lathe or drill press and leave the thru hole unfilled NOT unsealed. A guy on that same board did a nice experiment with a variety of sealers. There were some surprising results, though a common theme is that you must have the right finishing system (sealer, primer, paint, topcoat) to be effective. The debate rages (much like the "what is the best clearcoat debate here). For filling the holes, you could use 5 min or 30 min epoxy. Another fine product is plumbers epoxy 2 part mix in a tube at the big box stores. tear off a piece knead it to mikx and fill the holes. It hardens like steel.

Yes, that stiff wire is probably 316. I would not try to bend it and reopen the loop, because it is so stiff it is more "brittle" (though that is not the right word). If you can locate 308l or 304l that will work better. If you can locate a welding shop, it is highly likley they will have it in either 36" lengths in .035, .051 and .062 in all three types. They may even have 5 lb rolls of the .035. The last time I bought some .051 308l, I paid less than $7/lb in the 36" lengths.

Hey Pete, That is one beautiful bait! I really like your hook hangers. I am going to have to try that some time. Nice clean wraps! Just curious

I use mine for aluminum, copper, and 24 and 26 gauge stainless. Offset snips make it easier to cut a curve too.

I use the tin snips for decoy fins and then smooth it out with a grinder, file, or sandpaper. Home depot had a 5 pair set of snips for $15. they actually worked better for me that teh Wiss brand of snip.

check out the helping hands welding jig at harbor freight. this will likely be an inexpensive alternative http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2749

Another method to thru drill on a drill press is this: Use a piece of plywood as a flat base on top of your drill press table. Drive a nail from the bottom so the point just sticks up through the top of the plywood (the point of the nail, or screw, will be pointing up toward the chuck of the drill). You can do this with a dowel center as well. Then chuck a long bit in the drill and line up the point of the nail so it is exactly in line with the point of the drill bit. Clamp the plywood to the drill press table and lock everything down so it does not move. Replace the long bit with a regular jobber. Place the rear end of your bait on the point of the nail and line the bait vertically so you can drill into the nose of the bait. Drill into the nose. Use a fast drill speed and press slowly (this helps reduce bit wandering). Back out the bit as needed if the spirals clog with wood chips. Turn the bait over and place the hole you just drilled over the nail, screw or dowel center. Then drill into the tail end of the bait using the same method described above. Your two holes, if they have not met already should be perfectly in line. If you have a larger bait, you can replace the bit in the press with a longer bit or finish with a longer bit in a hand drill. There is no need for a vise to hold the bait. I know guys who use this method just holding the bait in the drill press by hand and have never had a problem. If you are more comfortable using a vise or building a jig to hold the bait vertically, by all means do so. A couple things to keep in mind: Start out with a shorter bit; longer bits tends to wander more easily, if you start with a short bit then you have a MUCH better chance of getting these holes to line up properly; Use a fast RPM on the drill press but drive the bit SLOWLY into the bait; this will help reduce wandering as well; if you can, get ahold of bradpoint bits with the spurs ground off these help in the wandering aspect as well, also the point is defined and easy to locate.This works for off center drilling as well.

You could cut a stencil and then hold that stencil away from the lure a little bit. That will soften the edges of the line. The further away you hold it, the softer the edge.

I have been recessing the eyes with a forstner bit that matches the eye diameter and attaching with 5 min epoxy, then clear coat over it. never had an eye pop out.

I've used yellow with a couple drops of black. Add the black one drop then mix. add a drop then mix. do this till you get the color you want

I get .051 and .062 in 3 foot lengths at a welding supply house. 308L or 316L. The 308 is a little easier to bend.

Thanks for the answers and input. I am going to experiment a bit w/ acetone a denatured alcohol as thinning agents. I have some propionate that I have not tried yet. Maybe mess around with that as well. Thanks.