miles

I have a 14ft Jon with a deck like a big bass boat and a foot controlled trolling motor. when i am fishing alone i love it! but when i bring a friend to fish out of the back it can get a little tough. If one of use moves a foot it will really move the boat. I haul mine with a Mercury tracer which is a really small 4 cylinder car without a problem. I work at bass pro and from what I have heard from people I should upgrade to a 16ft to solve the stability problem and be able to fish open water a little more(which I do a lot). Its great for ponds or small lakes which is all i really do. But bringing a friend makes it a hassle really quick. Hopefully that gives you a little bit of something to think about!

I had someone bring it what i though was a copy of the old green shimano curado that was like sports car red. It was really cool.

I want a reel for 10-18ft deep cranks. I have one 7ft med. rainshadow rod that i will use for the 10-14ft cranks and then I have a 7'6 med. crankin stick i will use for the dd22's and fat free shads. i need to know what reel i should use. oh I use 10lb flourocarbon if that helps at all. Right now I have a 5.4:1 David fritts cranking reel for the 10-14 and a 4.7:1 David fritts for the 14+ cranks. I dont know if there are any better options out and since i utilize cranks a lot, i want to make sure i get the right set up! Any input is appreciated! Thanks!

i work at bass pro and we sell the crap out of the banjo minnow kit, its literally one of our best sellers. I have used the baits myself(my mom got them at a goodwill store, hm look at that) and I think they did catch fish pretty well. they have great action but their one flaw is that the hook is way up front. Too many short strikes for me.

I saw the post about someone doing a jon boat conversion to make it have a deck and be suited for bass fishing. I got a 14ft v-hull and I was thinking I could do the same thing with it, but after being on the water on it yesterday, I noticed it has next to no balance while standing inside of it. What I want out of my boat exactly what was shown on the post, it was in the hombrew tools section title 14ft lowe jon boat conversion. And I am thinking that my boat will not be near stable enough if I put a deck on it. I am thinking I should sell/trade it and get what I want. Any inputs or suggestions would help. Thanks!

okay cool. i am starting to get into cranking a lot and i am using the BPS david fritts reel. It has a deep, solid spool so it would be perfect for using with dd22 or dt16 ect.. since it is a BPS reel and almost all spools on their reels are interchangable, i can switch out the deep solid spool with a shallow wiffle spool since I use only BPS reels. I appreciate everyones input! Thanks!

so then basically lighter spools(like wiffle spools) for lighter baits(1/4 oz or smaller) and deep, solid spools for heavier baits.

I saw a thread somewhere about spool weight and how different spool weights handle certain baits better than others. im using a deep spool for my crankbaits and I dont know if that is the right option. Deep spools are good for long casts because of the line capacity, but when your using 10 lb test, you dont need all that line on the spool. Would it be a better option to switch it out with a wiffle spool? And what are the advantages/disadvantages of each type of spool? Thanks!

okay thanks for all the help! janns netcraft actually makes a split grip handle for 25 bucks, so its kinda pricey. if i have any other questions i know where to go, thanks!

okay, I got a couple of questions that I want to know so I can Build rods well. 1-what is a popping rod blank? i have no clue what popping means 2-does module rating matter? i know that the higher the rating the more sensitive, is that true or just a sale gimmick? 3-does a gloss finish on a rod damper sensitivity and add weight? or is it just buffed to get the gloss on it? 4-do split grip handles help with weight and sensitivity? if they do, then do you have to buy a kit to make it, or can you make it yourself? 5-what are the best type of guides? 6-can someone tell me more about the flexilite guides? are they the same thing as the recoil guides on some rods? and are they really as light as they claim? 7-i want to make rods with blanks exposed on the reel seat. how to you make sure you get the right seat for the rod? do you try and match the i. d. or what? 8-i know rainshadow makes a 'textured finish' reel seat. its sounds nice. fugi makes a 'soft nonslip seat'. are they the same and are they worth it? 9-what about rosewood reel seats? are they just for looks? 10-waht the hell is I.D. and O.D.? thanks for your help. hopefully these are the only stupid questions i have to ask.

here in the next couple of days me and my science teacher will do another test to really find out. once i do i wll tell yall. im pretty sure its just tin.

so you really think it might be indium? i just have a feeling it it tin, if i could only give you a picture of it so you could see it, maybe that would help out.

when i bought my lead production pot a while back i got a block of metal that says 'indium' on it. when i went to school today me and my schience teacher did a test to see what metal it was. it came out with a weight of 7.15. indium and tin have a weight of 7.31. so thats what we think it is. but from what my teacher says indium is hard to get ahold of. could it be tin?

well i think what my best bet will be is to get in from my relative at the recycling center. there are two other problems now that im stuck with. one is getting all the bad stuff out. how do i melt it down to get all the bad stuff? do i just put it in the production pot? the other thing is that dang production pot. its clogged up like no other. i have tried a paper clip and it doesnt work to well. it cleaned it out a little and now it drips out, or comes out at an angle in a slow stream........i dont know how to get the junk out very well.....

i do a little pouring and an kinda wondering what the cheapest way to get lead is. at work we sell it for 8.49 for 5 lbs. i get a 40% discount so thats like what, $1.03 per pound? does that seem like a decent deal? i also have a relative that i can get lead from for like 10 bucks/25lbs, there are impurities in it though, and thats the only problem. are the impurities in it that big of a deal? he runs a recycling center and thats why its not pure. good deal though, if i could just get those different metals out.

okay, so it isnt the same. that kinda sucks, but okay. great help guys! i really appreciate all the input to help me out!

okay so you pour outside. that seems okay if there wasnt the extremes of heat here in kansas. i can stand the 110 degrees we sometimes get, but i dont know about the 10 degree weather! how do you stay warm?

okay, well im starting to come to a conclusion on this problem. one other thing is the lee production pot. is it the 4-20? they are sold at my work(bass pro, awesome job for a 17 year old who breathes fishing!) and i could get a discount if thats what it is. and how exactly do you use it? like i know you put the plastic in and all, but like what type of pours? i have heard hand pours on netcrafts website but dont feel do confident on what they say sometimes.

okay, for the trick worms i would go with just a little salt. a lot of Zooms baits have a little bit of salt in them. the packages that say 'better than salt' dont have salt in them. the ones that say 'super salty' have a light amount of salt content. i have no clue how much though.

I am wanting to know what the best material to use to make a one piece mold is. im guessing for baits with low detail such as a zoom fluke, would be alright with POP. but what about a bait like a senko? you have to coat the mold with a sealer and the sealant would take away from the detail, right? also, if i do make a one piece senko mold, how exactly should i make it? just push it all the way in so there is just a little bit of it sticking out of the POP? any suggestions on these two question would be great. thanks!

so maybe if i turn my fan on, and open a window? i think i also got a 'suction fan'.its kinda small for my window, its like 18 inches wide and my window is like 30 or 40 inches wide.

okay. well im stuck with only one mold of the couple of baits i make so that may be the problem. once i get 4 molds, then it will only take two rounds and i got 7 or 8 baits. right now it takes FOREVER! one at a time and thats probably why.

okay, so i want to know how important ventilation when pouring and injecting plastics. i have noticed that when i pull the plastic out of the microwave and stir it, there are fumes that come up. and i doubt they are very good for me. so do i need a window up, the fan going or what?

okay, so i dont like the whole thing of heating the plastic in the microwave, its doesnt seem quick enough to me. how is everyone else doing it? i want to be effective while i do pour, and want to look forward to doing it, right now i dont like it to much. another thing is ventilation. how much ventilation do you need to pour? once i take the melted plastic out of the microwave and stir, fumes come up, and i know they cant really be good for you. but mainly i want to know how to set up a work bench that will let me pour and inject plastics effectively. any help and ideas would be great! thanks!

yeah, thats what im kinda thinking. just play around with it and start by making some cheaper rods for practice. it will be fun, and im looking forward to it. im will be taking a class at cabelas, its 60 bucks, they supply everything(and pay for the rod, too) and they show me all the way through. oh, and get this-i work at bass pro so i will get pro staff deals. and thats on rod blanks, too. so i will be saving even more money there.