smallmouthaholic

Really ? You may wish to learn varied material use before you make a statement that nothing has its action. You drink the Yamamota kool -aid but have you ever made 5-10 different formulas w/ various plastisols then watched them descend in 4-8' of water depth in a clear,indoor swimming pool w/ a mask and snorkel?You have to get under water to see the true action- not looking from above the water's surface. Then you go back and tweak those formulas and test again & again..Do you think/know that different size / weight of the hook used causes increased/ decreased action? Its takes time/effort ,$, initiative and determination to develop a successful formula.The bass have the final say and I assure you some mfg.'s have figured it out.

Correct- good post!

Smoke the mold w/ a beeswax candle or spray the interior w/ Dropout. Clean the excess(outside the inner cavity) w/ paint thinner(for the drop out) or wipe off the excess beeswax. Spray dropout on both sides of the ladle and keep it submerged in the molten lead in between pours. I hand pour that mold and have no problems

It's called copy and paste.Pardon the assumption-good luck on whatever fishing lure application you're using it on. .Peace I met a gentlemen years ago that used bowling alley sealer to fishing his crank-baits. He dipped his crank-baits.They looked beautiful and he said the sealer would never come off. I'll stick w/ C.S. 2-part,water based epoxy air-brushed as a protective finish coat on my wooden surface plugs,buzz-baits and spinner-baits.

I hope you're successful w/ long term,no chip,scratch and paint scuffing w/ this product. It seems that the primary use for this product is automobiles. Cars are not jigs that get banged,dragged through rocks and casted into the side of bridge pillars.That's a great deal of prep work for a lead head jig that will eventually be lost in rocks and wood. I truly wish you good luck,safety and satisfaction w/ this product. For maximum adhesion, metals should be freshly polished or sanded to the finish required and then thoroughly cleaned with high evaporation solvent. Followed by a clean with KBS AquaKlean at a duition rate of 10 to1 with water (10% strength) with the use of a soft non abrasive cleaning pad. (Use gloves and eye protection at all times) Keep cleaning times to a minimum on non ferrous metals. Rinse with water and allow to dry in a way that minimizes any water stains.I remember C.S. touting their vinyl lure and jig paint 25 years ago.The toughest finish you can put on a jig that will not chip . The reality of jig fishing in rocks is scarred/chipped paint jobs and lost jigs.

I do not see the need,nor will even consider my use for this toxic material and the need to use their thinners along w/ the recommended preparation required.We're talking about fishing lures,not the space shuttle. I'm amazed how some TU members can seem to dance around warnings/precautions for various ,dangerous products/materials.Bottom line- use what you want if it gives you satisfaction. You only have one set of eyes and lungs.

Here's complete instructions for using and applying. Note a NOSHA approved respirator is recommended when applying. http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/diamond-finish-clearcoat-instructions/

Learn to dot the eyes and cross the T's before you quote or generalize w/ me..I said earlier 925 degrees for the highest temp. I use for my smelted lead/antimony mix.. I have "o" complaints/returns concerning buzz-baits and spinners baits including the painted epoxy finish.River SMB are notoriously tough on spinner and buzz-baits. A satisfied customer is a life-long customer and the small profit associated w/ this business doesn't justify aggravation/returns or complaints. To each his own-peace!

That's a real helpful comment!

Mark- they do not if there is +/- 8% antimony in your lead or you make them from Aqua pure,lead free solder.Buzz-baits made w/soft lead( x-ray room lead) become loose after 2-4 bass and water gets under the cracks and openings-goodbye paint job! Not looking to argue or start an "expert'' war on this subject- 26 years experience plus the 1st 2 w/ soft lead taught me a life long lesson( right in the back pocket) concerning soft lead and spinner/buzz-baits. I replaced 6+ dozen @ no charge to customers(25-26 years because the ones poured w/ x-ray lead loosened up.Soft lead is fine for jigs and sinkers.

Incorrect! The BIN rating of the lead is important. Soft lead is just that-SOFT!

Have a container of simple green towelettes handy. Wipe off your working surface and any tools you touch. It's best to vent lead fumes to the outside- check ventilation pull w/ something that creates smoke and follow the trail. Make sure any and all duct work is sealed. Lead dust9from finishing off sprue ends can be very detrimental to your health. Having an annual lead blood level test is sage advice.Small children should not be permitted in your work area. Pouring lead lures can be rewarding and safe if you follow precautions.

I read the entire article. In practicality, some statements seem to not pertain to custom lead,fresh water bass fishing lures. 1-Advisable not to heat the lead 70-90degrees above its melting point 2-Antimony lead softens quickly With all due respect,I have custom painted buzz-baits & spinner baits that are twenty years old and have seen plenty of use. You would break the handles on normal $7.95 lead dikes trying to cut it.They have never softened up. I bought some expensive lino lead from Midway U.S.A. once to try. It was a nightmare in my custom jig molds. 1/16- 1/8 oz. w/ double barbs and even 1/4 oz spinner bait molds. It does have more antimony but I believe the article states it melts below 650 degrees.I even heated it up to 975 in a small pot, fluxed it and smoked the molds and it still gave incomplete pours Incomplete pours drove me nuts. I smelted in soft lead by 50% and used it in large jigs -just to get rid of it. I am going to try Roto metals-99% pure lead(no antimony) to be objective and educated when my supply of soft lead is used up. Thanks for the article link. It is an informative read. Edited to add: i just saw Aqua pure solder on e-bay from $16- $20 per 1pd. roll-only 5x's the cost of Roto metals lead

Use a bees wax candle- other types do not produce positive results. A mess of your tools and hands ?- the soot is only for the inner cavities. I wipe off the excess(outside the cavities) w/ a rag and q-tip.Like you say,to each his own. I do believe the drop-out last longer on the ladel.The dross will come out of the ladel very easily after using the ladel to skim the dross off the top of molten lead. I simply tap it on the edge of a hard container. The lead pours more smoothly w/ the ladel either bees waxed or drop outed-on both sides. I had the same experience w/ my 1st Do-it Ultra spinner bait mold.The newer one works fine providing I bees wax the inner mold cavity for my use w/ my harder lead. Years ago I used x-ray room sheet lead for spinner and buzz-baits. Every single one of them loosened up.I changed to clean antimony lead and never looked back.That said, you still have to flux and flux your lead. Many years ago i purchased a case of Aqua pure,lead free solder. The cost today is prohibitive($35.+ per pound) but I smelt soft lead w/ my original supply of Aqua pure to make harder lead baits when my antimony supply gets low. I had all types of problems when I 1st started pouring lead into Do-it molds(1983). The late Melvin Bond of Do-it was kind enough to spend extra time w/ me on the phone,educating me on the idiosyncrasies of lead pouring. He also helped me w/ smelting my own lead to a desired hardness.

925

No-I airbrushed vinyl lure & jig paint from Component systems. Powder painting was not available back then. I still airbrush spinner and buzz-baits today but use C.S. water-base paint and epoxy coating .

No antimony in your spinner baits? Don't they loosen up? I will not use soft lead in spinner and buzz-baits since I replaced a bunch @ no charge for customers 25 years ago that became loose after use. I ladel pour the Ultra-spinner bait mold. Keep the ladel in the lead when not pouring so the lead doesn't cool when you fill it. The small Lee ladel pot will get your lead hotter vs. a big RCBS pot.Smoke the spinner bait mold , sprue entrance and both sides of the ladel 1st w/a beeswax candle. The candle works better vs. drop-out in my experience for that application.

Send them back to McMaster/Carr for a credit and talk w/ a rep. They are very helpful.My injectors from Ultra molds use quad "O" rings

Sounds like he's taking lessons from Shawn C. McMaster Carr will have the "O" rings

It sounds like you have contaminated lead. Flux and flux until there is no more dross on top.Open the plunger to expel any leftover junk(zinc?) and then pour.Try Rotometals lead next.

I used to clean mine religiously and using laping compound w/ a electric drill on a slow speed attached to the end of the plunger. It worked like a charm for almost 1 1/2 years and then stopped.It sits in a box in my shop- not sure if I want to do a Lee trade-in deal.Lee pots all drip after time-every time! The RCBS is a dream unit compared the a Lee pot. Price is relative to production,safety and reliability

I've experienced all of the aforementioned problems Cadman has over the past 25 years. Here's the answer- http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Pro-Melt-Furnace-120-Vac/dp/B000MLAWAA

Can you take a pic of the 2 part mold and post it? Turning the 2 color injector the wrong way into the mold can inhibit 2 color injecting.

Why not buy a craw mold that produces good laminates?