smallmouthaholic

A brushless, sealed motor will work well and not ignite solvent based materials.You need a pre-filter media to stop 60%-70% of paint residue and the slippery plastisol residues.The fan blades needs to be accessible and cleaned every 2-3 months and the filter media,depending on work load,every 1-3 weeks for exhaust efficiency. I use a commercial,inline ,10" diameter HVAC fan that has a variable speed from 620-740cfm and is exhausted through a 10" duct that is centered in a 25"Wx25"Hx25"D custom spray booth. I had a seperate 8'',adjustable duct fixed in the LLHC of the booth that draws air from the small attic in my shop so the fan doesn't drastically reduce warm ,shop air temps during the cold winter months and AC temps from the blistering summer air temps.

Spike-it makes the best plastic paint I.M.O. & experience. I manufacture and air-brush 1000's of swim-baits each year. I prefer solvent base and I believe Frank prefers non- solvent paint from Spike-it.. Solvent base dries in a few minutes w/ no smell afterwards and is exteremly durable w/ out dipping in clear. Solvent base paint requires a good exhaust system-usually in a spray booth. A 3-m organic respirator is recommended for long term,mixing & spraying.

I called this morning and spoke w/ a salesperson. They had some ceiling material fall but they are taking orders and will ship in a couple of days.

My original tube of what's left of my Vita flux is 25 years old and works fine. I provided an e-bay link to purchase. The decision is yours.I can put what's remaining of my Frankfor Arsenal flux in a plastic bag and mail it to you( once I get my 2 new tubes of Vita Flux)- if you pay prioroty mail postageof $5.25.

It smokes but it removes all dross and fine particles better then Frankford arsenal. I've used it 10 minutes after using F.A. and I was surprise w/ all the dross that came out. Now that i have 2 tubes ordered,I'll use the vital flux everytime,all the time.

I've been pouring lead for 30 years.I've used all the aforementioned fluxing suggestions except sawdust. I still have a small amout of a produce salled Vitaflux that I.M.O. surpasses all the other in cleaning the dross from lead.Rejoice- I just ordered 2 tubes from e-bay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Imperial-Vitaflux-Reduces-Dross-Vitalizes-Metal-for-Linotype-etc-2-oz-tube-/161736476902?hash=item25a83ec8e6

Spread them out on a cookie try and place them in the summer sun for 1 hour if you believe they have excess moisture. Excess moisture will cause the plastisol to bubble profusely when heated in a microwave.heat @ minute intervals and stir each time.

Remelting salted baits works fine- providing they're made w/ quality plastisol and you add new plastisol before melting the used baits.Heat slowly -stir often.That said,salted baits won't float.

Wooden popsicle sticks work just fine. No electricity or batteries required plus- no accident waiting to happen. Hold the small jar or can w/ one hand,stir w/ the other.

It's been years since my lead blood levels were check-so I had the blood test-( since I do this professionally 5-7 days a week Lead blood levels were in the safe range 1- I use a 5 sided exhaust booth-25"x2"x25" w/ a variable speed commercial exhuse fan-600-825 cfm vented thru the roof w/ a 10" duct 2-I grind all the sprue cut-offs smooth w/ a 1x30 belt sander in an enclosed box w/ a fliterd vacuum cleaer input/exhaust port. Some a filed by hand in a vise and sanded. 3-I wear sugical gloves when grinding and filing lead. 3- All tools and mold handles are wiped clean after each use Melting and grinding lead is not something you want to do w/ a half-assed exhaust system and without using protective gloves in conjuction w/ a routine,thorough cleaning routine @ the end of each pouring cycle. Lead dust is very harmful.Lead fumes are also dangerous that can build up in your blood,slowly over time. I stopped smoking 14 years ago. My same system is using when melting,injecting plastisol and powder painting.You only have one set of lungs-protect them!

Most anglers,including myself,want a lizard to float upwards on a carolina rig.I cannot see the advantage to using glass beads or any weight in a lizard bait.I personally would never go back to hand pouring again!

If they have a hook slot ,that is the problem.

It might be worth a shot from roto metals but past experiences have not been favorable.

I don't think anyone mentioned this but both colors must be of the same viscosity and type of plastisol. Put your injector and blending blockmin a toaster over to keep them both warm. I used to do that until i moved up to the Shooting Star System that eliminated the blending block and keeps the injector heated.

Salt and oil mix will make a mess in the package as will salt and moisture.That said,most will probably mention Popcorn salt but in my experience,Bear's Baits Ultra fine salt is the finesest particle size available. http://www.bearsbaits.com/Salt_p_149.html

Cover the swivel w/ soft,plastic tubing or hobby shop,flexible fuel line tubing for motorized cars.

Simply roll them in paper towels to remove the excess oil- simple,fast and efficient. Rinse the storage bags w/ hot,soapy water and dry the inside w/ a folded paper and a flat putty knife.

Unfortunately,you get what you pay for.

Heat a small nail or awl that will fit through the eye of the hook- hair gone!

Tips for ladle pouring- 1- Spray both side of a clean ladle w/" Drop Out" before pouring 2- Keep the ladle submerged in the molten lead between pours 3- Monitor the temperature of the lead accurately 4- Flux the lead before starting and after adding used sprues

Standard Calhou's plastic will turn amber when heated. Been there ,done that years ago. I believe Bait Junky's has de-aired Calhoun's. If that doesn't work ,move up to MF and enjoy yourself. They will all turn amber/yellow if heated too high for too long. An IR gun is a good quick indicator of the temp of your plastic taken before and after you stir. Microwaves are not plastisol friendly. A presto pot w/ stirrer is- based upon my experience.

Spike-it worm paint will not bleed

Adding a small mold extender to the top of the molds may reduce the dents as there is more plastic for the cooling plastic to draw from.Sometimes when working w/ multi-cavity molds we can't top off quickly enough to compensate for the draw down. Every mold. especially multi-cavity,custom CNC molds have their own, individual idiosyncrasies and may require different techniques.I.M.O.& experience- Cooler ,injected plastisol produces less dents.I had multi cavity molds that the manufacturer couldn't stop from denting. They were filed open,and adjusted numerous times and ended up in the trash can. One size does not fit all. edited for spelling

They have $ to burn , can make your life miserable and cost you $ in legal fees - why even waste time challenging them? Bear's Baits has similar baits(injection molds) that work just as well- he can even customize them - if you want to spend the $ If you like the Beaver Baits from R.I. and desire an exact copy,just buy them and you'll save $ in the long run.