smallmouthaholic

Try this for 16oz of plastisol but first wipe out the inside of your microwave to remove any moisture. Heat for 2 minutes on high-stir Heat for 1 minute on high -stir Heat for 1 minutes on heat setting 5 and stir Heat on heat setting 4 @ 1 minute intervals and stir in between Scoop off the foam/bubbles- save in a different container- re-heat and see what happens. Some plastisols foam/bubble more then others. You may be overheating your plastisol. A presto pot w/ stirrer will end your problems but you have to be willing to spend the money for one. Have you talked w/ Bear and explained the problem to him? I never experience foaming w/ Calhouns- just an amber color change which is completely unsatisfactory when dealing w/ white/pearl colors.

Without question-use power setting 3-4 on a 1-10 scale. Heat stabilizer wil not overcome excessive heating in a microwave w/ light colors.. Your plastic keeps cooking even though the micro wave timer shuts down.All plastisols will burn and discolor when over heated but I've had the best results w/ MF and Spike-it.

You must heat and re-heat micro wave plastic for short periods w/ a low setting on the microwave. 1 minute and stir-30 seconds and stir etc. All colors will change but white,chartreuse and smoke w/ flake are notorius to change color. Some plastisols hold color better under moderate heat but all will change-especially when heated in the microwave.

Yes it will. Count your drops in cold plastic-keep records. Chartreuse,orange/pumpkin,junebug and fluorescent blue are some that require approximately 20-30 drops per 16 oz. of plastisol

Mix a separate batch w/cold plastisol,heavy on the colorant in the micro wave but don't overheat. Then pour into your pot.

Monitor your plastisol temperatures w/ an IR(infrared Gun) whether you heat w/ a microwave or presto pot w/ stirrors.Lighter colors can easily change if heated to high for prolonged periods.Keep accurate records as experimenting & experience is your best teacher.The Shooting StarSystem from Bear'sBaits- http://www.bearsbaits.com/ is an economical system to inject two color baits w/ a heated twin injector. The blending block will require periodic cleaning and replacement of internal "O" rings. edited for spelling

A 6 x 4 woodworkers vise will clamp 6 molds safely and eliminate most flashing

Bubbles in your plastisol have been discussed many times on the TU format. Heating too quickly-and/ for lengthy time frames w/out stirring can cause this when heated in a microwave Some plastisols have more moisture in them causing more of a bubbling problem.

http://bearsbaitsforum.com/index.php?board=43.0

Sharpies will bleed in,around and through the plastic.(been there,done that) Wait a month you'll be extremely disapointed.Spike plastic paint is the deal-learn to use an airbrush and you'll never regret the move.

My dye never leaves the shop so i've never experienced that problem baits are prepared in advance Why not call the manufacturer and as him? Bruce is an encylcopedia of information and will return any message you leave w/ your area code and phone# Bruce MacElroy Spike-it plastisol 912-225-4533 # 106

I don't bounce my jigs off of rocks above the water line. Seriously,I've never had a problem w/ denting in 25 years nor have I recieved any complaints from customers.Various types of jigs are designed to perform specific functions fished through submerged timber,weeds,ledges and various substrate.Consistent hook sets and reduced snag performance while holding various soft-plastic trailers firmly in place are the jig qualities necesssary I.M.O.

I will never use wheel weights-period.Loaded w/ dirt ,zinc and associated pouring problems. I ladle pour the Do-it Ultra spinner bait mold w/ hard lead and do the following- 1- Keep your mold ,slightly opened on the top of your lead pot when not in use. 2- Pour the cavities 3 times w/out wire forms and hooks for the initial interior,mold heat-up 3-Keep the ladle submerged in the lead pot when not in use 4- I use woodworking vices mounted on the edge of my exhaust booth to hold the mold firmly in place and don't have to worry about overpours spilling onto a gloved hand. 5- Flux lead often to remove impurities 6-I use drop-out in the sprue canal but smoke the interior of the mold cavities w/ a candle flame. 7- The harder lead needs to reach a temperature of 900 + degrees to pour these .Use adequate exhaust to remove all vapors @ these temperatures. Personally, I will never see the need for hard lead in any jigs I pour- especially all of my custom double barbed models down to 1/16 oz. That said, harder lead w/ antimony is a must(I.M.O. and experience) for buzzbaits and spinner baits. I stated this before- monitor your lead temperature inside your pot w/ a digital pyrometer and note which molds pour best @ a specific temperature.You'll also know when the thermostat in your Lee pot needs replacement and those thermostats do go bad. Edited for additional content

Your assumption is correct- it also helps to have a stand-up head

Add black,green( 1-2 drops) and pumpkin

I was speaking about the Harbor freight models. I use these for hard lead w/ a wide base sprue- http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-170M-General-Shearcutter-Diagonal/dp/B0002BBZIS

I guarantee they'll break if you attempt to cut harder lead w/ them.

https://www.google.com/search?q=lead+gate+shears&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb

Using a pro-4 20 Pot -Absolutely- 1 size larger. Then attach the plunger (stem) w/ the slotted end to a drill,apply some lapping compound to the tip, insert until it stops and spin in both directions w/ light pressure. Inspect the tip and you'll see when all irregularities are polished out.The pro-4 20 has an adjustment screw to control the rate of lead. Make sure you flux your lead every time you add new lead and/ or cutoff sprues to the pot.. You'll make out better w/ x-ray sheet lead( it's soft) for jigs and weights.The impurities in lead-especially garage wheel weights will give you problems.here's pot that can be drilled- http://www.basspro.com/Lee-Lead-Production-Pot-20-lb-Capacity/product/44523/?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&om_mmc=shopping_googleproductextensions&kpid=44523%26adc=pg_315_11128_5282c124e4b006f67e95bcb3_41408749711 Edited for spelling

That's prudent advice unless you're retired and looking for something to keep you busy.

Bear's ultra-fine salt requires no grinding @ all.Powdered salt will change the color of darker plastics.

Many hobbyist wish to pour their own soft-baits and that's fine. Having a working table/surface in front of a large window fan is an in-expensive set-up that will do the job.That said, working in a basement can present a challenging exhaust system that may require an exhaust booth/custom hood w/ a 10-12'' duct /650+CFM in- line fan exhausted through the window.You'll want to make sure the exhausted fumes do not enter open windows above the basement and enter your home. Fan blades need to be cleaned periodically as plastisol fumes/smoke leaves slippery,gummy film which attracts dirt / dust ,reducing the effectiveness of the fan. We only have one set of lungs and need to protect them from harmful,long term exposure.

Folks were trying to help you. https://www.google.com/search?q=waqlmart+free+ship+to+store&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb Where do you have to pay $100.00 for overnight shipping and why does it have to be overnight ??

Ordering online is a necessity if you wish to obtain all the necessary components and plastic to make your own baits. The motor and stirrer is the expensive part(ordered from bears baits). Many times you can find complete pots w/ Stirrers for sale on his forum website- http://bearsbaitsforum.com/index.php?action=login2

Shipping charges are part of life and business. If you don't like them compute the cost of driving your vehicle to the source and back http://www.nydailynews.com/autos/owning-operating-car-costs-article-1.1319284 You'll gladly pay for shipping afterwards Spike-it has powered salt.