smallmouthaholic

I have been buying direct from Worth for the past 8 years w/ the swivels installed.The quality and dependability is 1st class.

Simply pour your jigs w/ the weed guards firmly seated into the mold channel- all the way against the head of the jig. Put your hook in the mold and close-then insert the weed guard all the way in.. Obtain the correct size tubing to slide over the weed guards) for a tight fit when painting. You also have the ability to change the position(away from the hook point) by bending and holding the weed guards for 5-8 seconds as soon as they come out of the mold Hold the hook in one hand and bend the fiber guards towards the eye of the hook.

Save yourself some time and frustration w/ blade baits. There are holographic decals that present a life-like image in the water. I've never had one come loose if applied to a clean blade bait. I've yet to find an epoxy that is 100% rock proof.

Add the hardener to cold plastisol then heat

Here's a couple of more suggestions- 1-Check you lead temperature w/ a digital pyrometer 2-use soft (x-ray room sheet lead) for jigs- flux to remove impurities 3- Smoke the hook and any inserts in the mold cavity( I have custom ,lead CNC molds that will not pour unless I do this) 4- Heat them and the complete inside cavity of the mold( for 5 seconds) w/ a micro, butane torch using a sweeping motion.

My hottest selling laminated soft-bait is a green pumpkin/golden brown chartreuse.Black/blue and Green pumpkin/watermelon are tied for 2nd place. I believe in impregnated scents-especially on pressured waters. I've changed colors purposely when two of us find a wolf-pack of bass.Sometimes they only want one color and others times they don't. Susquehanna river crayfish have a bluish glimmer on their tops and we've hammered bass on that same color in local lakes. It pays to be flexible and have the willingness to experiment.Every time we think we have them figured out ,the bass throw us a change up and we strike out. That's exactly what makes bass fishing so interesting and @ times challenging.

Thank you for sharing

I've had one of these for 27 years. Basic, not expensive and does the job- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Excellent-Vintage-Thompson-A-Fly-Tyers-Vise-Bobbin-Whip-Finisher-In-Box-/281299427128

. "All smallmouth does is knock people down and try to make them feel stupid.. Its getting old, I sell all that stuff to make things easier, But i will never try to sell someone something they dont need. (Health Insurance) Wanting and needing are two seperate things. Ill show you hand pour guys that can pour far nicer looking baits than any injector or machine will ever do." Lenard, Jealousy seems to run rampant @ times on this board. The cold ,hard truth seems to arouses the self-appointed experts.I 've offered plenty of spot on advice in the soft-bait and lead forums. Kinda sounds like a personal; attack from you.I guess you don't like me since I do not like Calhoun's plastic- regular and/or d-aired- even though I offered to pay for your samples. Shame on you for generalizing w/ your statements towards me, "ll show you hand pour guys that can pour far nicer looking baits than any injector or machine will ever do." You really know very little about soft-baits manufacturing to make that statement- but I 'll just have to consider the source. It's is humorous how you try to justify hand pour over injection. I'd love to see the results of your craw and creature molds after your hand pouring expertise- without trimming Edited for spelling

Sir, Laminates are easy w/ a properly constructed ,multiple cavity CNC injection mold. I shoot 12 @ a time and they are perfect. I started w/ hand pour stick molds years ago and sold every last one of them for the following reasons- 1- inconsistencies 2- poor laminates 3- slow production Sorry but I'm laughing out loud a the false justification used to continue hand pouring w/ those outdated molds. They're OK for hobby use.

I can't understand why you would purchase a precision ,CNC injection mold and turn it into a hand pour mold. I'm sorry but it doesn't make sense to me. You may be able to find hand-pour,1 sided CNC molds but you're contradicting the 1st sentence in your post.

Presentation techniques, weighted hooking methods and color are paramount to your success w/ artificial crayfish - not an exact copy. This bait from Bear's will catch plenty of bass for you- http://www.bearsbaits.com/35-KODIAK-CRAW-2_p_276.html

Call Component Systems and purchase some fluff or fluffy.All my powder paints boil and flow evenly . Start w/ a 75%powder paint/25% fluffy mix and and more fluffy as necessary

Spike-it coloring- thick ,rich & creamy- sounds like a food commercial

Coat the lead w/ epoxy- end of oxidation.

Without question!

I used to make them w/ a Do-it spinner jig mold. I do not see them on their site currently They had an Arky style head w/ a #730 eagle claw hook and a 5/32 fiber weed guard. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e133/smallmouthaholic/Spinnerbaits002.jpg Edited to add pic

Move to hand injecting and enjoy yourself and the detailed results.

The paint has to be thinned-even when you're dotting eyes. I used to pour just enough to cover the inverted lid of a 1 oz. jar,then place it on an angle.1 dip w/ the paint brush stem should dot 2-4 eyes before dipping is required again.Too thin and the eye dot runs,too thick and it's stringy as you have experienced. These 3 color eyes were accomplished using vinyl paint and different paint brush stem diameters http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e133/smallmouthaholic/counter_rotating_blade_buzzbaits_zps781dc611.jpg

Try this- http://retail.ultramolds.com/shop/

Acetone or Methel Ethel Keytone (M.E.K.) Acetone has a faster evaporation rate. Maybe you may wish to consider dotting your eyes w/ different diameter paint brush stems- still using the vinyl paints. Edited to add: your paint is spider webbing becuase it's too thick. I sprayed C.S. vinyl for almost 10 years.

There was a little but it dispersed quickly withing 15 seconds of shaking.

MF plastic

Condolences to his family. I spoke w/ Ron years ago when I 1st started w/ plastics and purchased his tube instructional CD. Ron was a wonderful and helpful person. R.I.P. Ron

1- the injector rests in a heated block 2- You remove the injector from the heated block and either- a-plug into the Left coupler,rotate and draw 1 color b- plug into the right coupler,rotate to draw a different color c- plug into the middle coupler,rotate and draw both colors simultaneously for 2 color injecting 3- the heated block does not rotate causing the heater and thermo coupler wires to prematurely break. (this was a problem w/ the original shooting star system)That problem can be minimize in your old system by using shrink tubing for the 1st 6-8'' of both the thermocouple and heater wires 4- the s.s. pots have indvidual heat controllers 5- the pots have lids w/ ventilation tubing which prevent plastisol smoke from escape requiring good exhaust. 6- each pot have mechanical stirrers w/ ports to add additional plastisol Edited for additional content