smallmouthaholic

djs- There is still very good info passed on this site by manufacturers- which may save you $ - AND it's free Opinions will vary from person to person and their preferred production systems. There are many variables to producing soft-plastic baits. The hobbyist is happy to produce a few where as the commericial manufacturer has to decide between daily production needs and/or custom baits w/ a successful business model. This is one cutthroat business for sure . Operating a legitimate manufacturing business,paying your quarterly excise taxes on gross sales and charging a fair price for your product is more expensive vs. flying under the I.R.S. Radar screen. Tempers can & will flair but usually calm down when resposible folks are involved- unless personal attacks take place.Enjoy TU- again copius amounts of spot-on info throughout the entire site Edited for spelling

Two-color,Swim-bait sprues make excellent,new swim-baits if- 1- you now how to adjust the colors and hardness of the used sprues 2- use them in a presto pot w/ stirrer so they are not overheated causing a un-usable color change 3- the tops are not thick, jet black New tricks to plastisol coloring are discovered every year by those willing to experiment

Trying to communicate w/ you in a civil manner seems to be a waste of time since you love to turn my replies into a personal attack. You da man!!!! OOH-RAH for Frank . BTW- where's your website to draw in orders for all these 1,000's of baits you shoot- more then 99% of those on TU (they're your words). You're a legend in your own mind.LMAO! I agree to disagree w/you!! Edited for content

That said,I will not even consider a 4.5K injection machinge that does not have mechanical stirrers when heated plastisol is held in pots. You've admitted in the past you stay away from salted baits as much as possible. Just imagine heavy salt,sand and glitter in the mix w/out a mechanical stirrer

Respectfully, I have more important requirements when injecting two-color baits . Worrying about settling salt,sand, and glitter are not one of them. A contiuous,mechanical stirring system can't be beat! I use two pairs of heat resistant gloves(on the injector held hand) when injecting mulitple ,12-15 cavity CNC molds that require lengthy time holding the two-color injector. That said,I will not consider a 4.5K injection machinge that does not have mechanical stirrers.

Here's a link to the new Shooting Star System- http://retail.ultramolds.com/product/shooting-star-with-inector/?added-to-cart=17

The information concerning the Jacobs machine is appreciated.I was taking a long,hard look @ the pro-model. That said,hand stirring w/ hot handles is not acceptable/nor practical to me.

You're going to be surprised as I was years ago. Never assume-it could be dangerous to your health. Inquiring minds want to know.

Lee,pro 4-20 melter have a straight pouring spout. 1-Empty the pot and clean. heat the spout w/ a butane torch to remove all lead. 2-Run a .040 s.b. wire up from the bottom to make sure all the impurities are removed from the spout.heat the spout carefully w/ a torch if necessary 3- Now ,carefully drill the bottom of the spout open 1 drill size larger then stock. 4-Next take the spout stem(removed from the pot) attach it to a drill and add some lapping compound to the end.Insert and operate the drill- observing the end of the stem.after each 30 seconds. 5-Continue adding lapping compong until the stem end is concave and smooth. No more drips for 2-3 months Repeat as necessary Remeber- lead is dirty and can be full of impurities(dross) requiring regular fluxing I have and use a Hot-pot 2 and use it for various spinner baits and buzzbaits. That said, that little pot can really heat the lead past 900 degrees. Use it w/good ventilation and check your molten lead temperatures.

Consult a patent attorney- those w/ the deepest pockets usually win. Edited for spelling

Lead is dirty by nature. You need to flux your lead when you first fill your pot w/ new lead. providing your pour spout is clean,this will solve most of your problems. Soft lead for jigs-lead w/ antimony-tin for spinner baits and buzz-baits You do not have to smoke your mold if you use other interior cavity coaters(drop-out). Make sure yiou clean the drop-out fron the flat ares of your mold or the casting will flash if the mold has tight tolerances. I prefer drop-out in the pouring sprue and candle smoke in the cavity. All pots ned to be cleaned periodically-including the pouring spout. You can clean most spouts out w/ .040 spinner bait wire w/ the lead in a molten state. Bend the end on a right angle and hold the wire w/ pliers in a gloved hane while you clear the spout w/ the pouring lever open. You need to monitor your molten lead temperatures. Not all molds pour completely @ the same tempertures depending on the hardness of the lead. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=199

Smoke the mold w/ a candle then use a small ,micro butane torch to heat the hook already placed in the mold. You accomplish a two for one play w/o all the recomended engineering,burnt fingers and wasted time.

I use non- coated wire.Some may like coated wire. You'll have to decide which pd. test works best for you. Coated wire is much stiffer. I use Malin 1x7 non- coated S.S.wire from 60-120lb.test.

Many anglers,including myself,do not like the radical bend of the Mustad 91768. Mustad used to make a M9200 w/ a more opened bend but discontinued them.Shorty's still has them in 1/0,3/0 4/0 and 5/0. I use 1000's of these per year vs. the #91768. that said,I could never find the M9200 in size 2/0 and have to open the bend by hand w/ pliers w/ products I make using that hook. They never give an advanced warning when they are going to discontinue a specific hook.

Of course you can do these much cheaper w/o business expenses and the P.I.A. 10% excise tax. I eat my own cooking and pro-staffers get my Weedless Wonder hooks before they're ever put up for sale.That said, I'm still experimenting as various baits require different size hooks. Exposed wire ends must be coated w/ powder paint,liquid electrical tape or shrink tubing for durability. I have developed a wacky worm w/ internal "O" rings for a perpendicular hook placement w/ these new weighted hook models in 1/16 and 1/8oz. w/ dual wire guards. Both the worm and weighted hook required custom CNC molds for precise production. These rigs performed flawlessly last summer during testing. The models pictured have clear shrink tubing on the ends.The original models w/ flexible, dual wire guards have their ends coated w/ powder paint. So far ,they hold up the best when coated w/ Component System's waterbase, epoxy paint. I am trying liquid electrical tape and various shrink tubing to reduce manufacturing time and durability issues. Notice how these weighted hooks w/ dual wire guards stand up by themselves on a flat surface. That's the trick for proper wire guard adjustment Edited for spelling

I've used respirators for 25 years in the pesticide application business and have never had this problem- even in humid weather w/ a tyvek suit on. I've also never experience this condition in my shop when making baits -and/or airbrushing. My shop is heated and air-conditioned during weather extremes.

It times time to make them properly w/ excellent durability.

Cadman- I currently do not have any tutorials to post. I used the kirbed Gamakatsu Octopus hooks. You can also coat the thread w/ Sally Hansons "hard as nails". I do not run the dual wires through the eye of the hook. Make sure whatever you coat the thread w/ doesn't run and set in the eye of the hook.

These hold up much better and you can make them yourself w/ flexible wire

It's so easy even a cave man can do it. I did not say he has to fire up two presto pots. One pot w/ a stirrer and a medium injector will get him started in the right direction w/out wasting money. There's is usually a pot w/ stirrer for sale on Bear's forum pages- @ discount,slightly used condition w/ a fair price. BTW- you think you have the same injector set-up I have.LOL! Just becuase I have a Shooting Star system don't assume it's the same as yours. FYI- I also have a single presto pot w/ stirrer and a medium and large single injector for single color work so I don't have to fire up the two pots and dual injector. In the future don't put words into my mouth-thankyou.

You folks just don't get it. if you want to keep salt suspended ,you need a heated pot w/ a stirror. But I could be wrong if you have a mechanical arm w/ a well designed coat hanger The old business rule applies to hobbies- if you want to save money ,you have to spend it 1st.

Sally Hanson's Hard as Nails will work well for your situation

Start w/ ultra -fine salt from Bear's Baits. Mix it in a Presto Pot w/ stirror- then inject. End of salt clumping problems. Making your own baits is not a cheap hobby to get involved with- if you want professional results.

NO

Some plastisols bubble/foam more then others- request a small sample from MF, Spike-it and Baitjunky's- then make an informed decision which brand bubbles/foams less and maintains it's clear color. the longest. You'll never have a bubbling/foaming problem heating from scratch in a Presto Pot w/ Stirrer. We all use microwaves but they are tough on plastisols and each require their own temp.settings and intermittent heating durations.