smallmouthaholic

There is a new rotating blending block which i have not received yet. The heater and thermocouple wires do need to be replaced periodically. Call Bear to order & any up to date Q&A you might have. I use compressed air and copper tubing to clean the lines from the presto pots to and including the dual injector. The unit must be @ operating temperatures to perform this. The dual injectors rarely need to be cleaned. You will also want to inquire about angled fittings from the manufacturere that put both pots on a downward angle- eliminating a great deal of mix left in the pots. The heated blending block and dual injector never needs to be cleaned during operation. The unit is the "Cat's Meow " for affordable ,two-color injection. You will need a good exhaust system / booth to operate this system so you don't inhale plastisol fumes. Phone: Bears. Baits LLC. 985-969-1390 Edited to add: - Cleaning once cool (difficulty)? See above - Workable quantity in cups per pot? 4-6 per pot - Longevity of heating elements. How often do they need replacing? see above - Bubbles in substrate (if any)? None

Very true- but folks cheat on their income taxes & deductions too UNTIL they get caught. To the best of my knowledge, they have a design and utility patent on the Sweet Beaver and the name is trademarked. Fact to remember- if you loose a patent infringement suit,you are also responsible for the patent holders attorneys fees

You would and could not afford to take on Reactions Innovations in a patent infringement court case. Andre Moore would blleed you dry. here's the patent http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CEsQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fpatentimages.storage.googleapis.com%2Fpdfs%2FUSD671615.pdf&ei=85AHU7KVIOXm0wGB7IHgCQ&usg=AFQjCNHEq372FToG1H-o-ICIJFG3uttk6A&sig2=EB1GYmF4DeLPZyZikjegCA&bvm=bv.61725948,d.dmQ

I use C.I.'s water base paint to airbrush all my spinner baits. Createx will not hold up as well. WTP 3 -d eyes and C.I.'s 2 part,water base epoxy is sprayed over the entire,finished spinner bait and/or buzzbait head.WTP eyes stick well to C.I.'s water base paint and doesn't fillup the eye sockets like powder paint can resulting in a poor eye cavity to hold recessed eyes. Now I'll open a can of worms-I've introduced a complete line of un-painted spinner baits that feature a special,bright alloy, 3-d eyes and epoxy coated heads to seal the eyes in place..Many anglers including myself feel the painted spinner bait head is not necessary and the reduced price for these quality s.b.'s seems to be well received- time will tell. A top quality,3 color spinner bait is now in the upper $6-7+$ range and time consuming to manufacture.

Why even worry about it? There are so many good craw mold,beaver types available. Bear has them and they work just as well as the original beaver- if not better. Many fishertmen are so worried about finding the exact bait they are usually poor in their presentation techniques.

Bob's molds made one that featured two,hand pour cavities in a CNC open pour mold. I had 3 of them @ one time but eventually sold them.

Don't feel bad Mark-senoir moments seem more frequent as we pass 65. i made some special tubes ,packaged them and put them away. So far away i turned the shop upside down looking for them 3 x's..6 months later I'm looking for another personal soft-bait and guess what i find stached under those bags- my custom tubes.I still can't find the 8 1/2" sissors I lost 8 months ago.

I've airbrushed many ,many jigs using C.I.'s vinyl paint and 2 part expoxy for a finish coat.You'll need to spray a base coat of white 1st-(I made this a grey color for easier finish coating). I made holding jig forms out of closed cell foam and used form fitting tubing to cover the fiber guards. Each form will hold 8-10 jigs.You'll need a spray booth w/ good exhaust since you're working w/ solvent base paints. Enter powder paint-For 1 color jig applications It simply can't be beat for speed( 1coat) and finished product.I haven't airbrushed a jig head in 20 years and will never go back to that method of painting. I do not see the necessity for multi-colored jig heads. I do not use teflon pins for molding and have developed a system to powder paint w/ the fiber guards molded in place.I do not want my fiber guards on the finished jig touching the hook. Most here on TU use telflon pins for molding and then glue in fiber guards later. They are successful and satisfied w/ their sytem as I am w/ mine. i still use a spray booth w/ exhaust for powder coating and curing. Edited to add: i do swirl my jig heads in acetone proir to painting in an exhaust booth.Paint adhears to a clean jig head very well. i do not epoxy coat any jig heads once i started powder coating since repeated contact w/ rocky substrate w/ eventually wear away any finish.

Electric blue-OR- Bear's marine blue mixed w/ grape

I buy 98% of my hooks from Shorty's.(wholesale only) I have ordered items from Barlow's-1-2x annualy for years and have always recieved them promptly.I don't think their shipping charges are out of line but for those who seem to believe they are-order from another supplier-Jann's,TW,LPO,Hagens vs. complaining.

Frank- I responded to a poster who stated his booth stills smells after painting w/ solvent based paints. i politely detailed what i do before and after painting w/ solvent based paints ( to help others who may be interested) so my booth doesn't smell when i'm finished and you interject needless sarcasim. You tried to pick @ my ventilation exhaust system and recieved an education.Unfortunately, it seems apparent intelligence from others upsets you.Have a nice day. edited for spelling

I line the sides ,back and bottom of my booth w/newspaper stapled to h.d. cardboard forms that fit precisely.I remove the newspaper,put the carboard forms outside or in the garage . There is no smell remaining in my spray booth. i do use waterbase paint( no Createx for me) and epoxy from Component Systems for my wooden plugs,crankbaits,buzz-baits and spinner baits. I inject 3 color swim-baits and airbrush Spike-it ,solvent based plastic paint for the shaded top of the swim-bait. It dries in minutes,will not come of the bait and the baits have absolutely no solvent smell to them. I tried dipping- no thanks -takes for ever to dry and peels right off.

From all i've read and digested,powder paint seems non-toxic-That said Here's a warning and cautions using powder paint from the Eastwwod site- CAUTION Read and understand all instructions and precautions before proceeding. This unit uses high voltage as well as powder which may become flammable under certain circumstances. Eastwood shall not be held liable for consequences due to deliberate or unintentional misuse of this product. Flammability Hazard Powder coating dust, like common household dust, when confined and suspended in air, poses a fire and potential explosion hazard if ignited. Good housekeeping, adequate ventilation, dust control and isolation from potential ignition sources is required! Sweep up unused powder from the floor. Do not vacuum unless the vacuum is equipped with an explosion-proof motor. Never smoke while powder coating. Do not apply powder coat near any source of ignition, e.g. open flames, sparks, etc. Use the same precautions that you would for liquid solvent based coatings. DO NOT USE A GAS OVEN! Edited for spelling

I used these for 25 years in the Turf and Ornamental pesticide mixing and application business.I use them today when airbrushing solvent based paints when my face is @ the entrance of the booth. I wipe out the interior w/ Listerine before each use. They fit well,are comfortable and are disposable after many hours of use. I prefer a new respirator for a nice tight and comfortable fit when the existing mask expire. http://www.gemplers.com/product/10164/3M-Paint-Pesticide-Respirator

Frank- I'll answer your question w/o tap dancing the issue. My exhaust fan is not a certified ,explosion proof fan. That said, it is an induction fan w/ no sparking brushes and a completely sealed motor.Nothing that could create sparks can enter the grill leading to the fan blades.It has a variable rheostat that contols the CFM's from 650 to 750. I sprayed M.E.K. and solvent based paints for years w/ induction fans w/o a problem.There are no open flames of any sort in my shop or the open part of the garage and I do not smoke.

Frank- Spike it's solvent plastic paint sticks like epoxy glue-one coat and done! I don't see the reality of using water base paint 1st ,then a solvent based clear coat. it sounds labor intensive and you're still using a solvent base product.I agree on the clearasol clear coat- takes forever in colder weather to dry and peels off easier then an orange. You will need an organic respirator and a spray booth w/ exhaust but i have that anyway

The business world can be cruel and the tax man wants his $ on time. The tackle business is not the cheap and in-expensive venture some here on TU seem to think it is. I've been told the I.R.S. agents get a bonus when they catch a manufacturer(no matter how small) who sells baits but does not pay the excise tax.

I'd pay them all ,check the appropriate boxes and get up to date immediately.The I.R.S. will contact you if they are not happy w/ the return. Enclose the letter i suggested w/ the return

Did you ever obtain form #637 signed by an I.R.S. agent? That is an excise exeption form to be used when you buy materials @ wholesale prices.If so,the agents name and contact phone # are on the form You can download form #720 from the I.R.S. website https://www.google.com/search?q=IRS+form+%23720&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a Go to sport fishing equipment area on the back of the form and fill out you 10% tax due on gross sales.Make sure you put your E.I.N. # on the front w/ your name & address and sign/date the back of the form The form gets mailed to: Department of the Treasury Internal Revenue Service Cincinnati,Ohio 45999-0009 Personally,I would get a check and any interest / penalty they have assessed to you mailed out ASAP. Make your check out to:Department of the Treasury.They want their excise tax money and are not an organization to fool around with.You can include a letter(for what it's worth) that you've tried to contact them and wish to file form #720 every quarter Edited for additional links

The problem is your powder paint. Call Component systems(715-845-3009) and order some fluff or fluffy and mix it w/ your powder paint. Start w/20-25% fluffy. You'll be amazed @ the difference.

Tail cutter presses and/or rotary fabric blade cutters produce inconsistent ,cut tails and can be difficult/frustrating .The rotary cutters can somewhat dangerous to use.Been there,done that w/ both types years ago. Injection tube molds produce the most uniform and undulating cut tails on a tube.

1-Use C clamps or a vise to hold your molds closed. 2-Make sure both ,inside surfaces of the mold are clean and smooth 3- open the palm of your hand and let the weight of your hand push the plunger downward 4- Stop when you feel the slightest resistence 5- Use a medium viscosity plastisol and check the temp. w/ an IR gun Remove the tip from your inject and lightly spray the inside w/ PAM cooking spray-after you pull the plunger all the way out. Slowly depress the plunger until the gasket comes out and wipe all the excess plastic off. A smoothly operating injector is paramount to your sucess.Repeat the cleaning and lubricating process as necessary.

No problem @ all-It's all in good fun!

Leonard- NO I did not. I recommended Bruce since he is the manufacturer of both types of plastic paints and he will give honest,authorative and prudent advice for using his paints. Sometimes there is incorrect information given out @ times here on TU. BTW- I'm not on MF's staff either