smallmouthaholic

It seems that Kevin modified his original blending block from my recommendations-months ago. The original had angles and a travel distance that permitted easy clogging.Clearing the clogs were time consuming w/ the original model. There are still many caveats w/ two color injecting that will be addressed in the near future. Bear's is on the way- it takes 3-4 days to get here by U.P.S. I have not used it so no comments yet are forth coming in comparison to the old blending block I used many months ago . "Getting burned is easier with all this to me than just my good old pyrex/anchor cups." Until they decide to explode ! Are all these folks making up stories? http://www.topix.com/forum/food/chicken/TMLVTA6CA6BKTK50T or these- http://www.google.com/search?q=exploding+pyrex%2Fanchor+cuops&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a Jim- I'm forced to question(in my mind) many points of your lengthy,justification post since you continue to trust the aforementioned bombs. To each his own.If it works for you then it's all good. I'll report on my experiences w/ Bear's block after I receive and use it. Have a joyous safe and healthy holiday season - Al

You are incorrect in your assumption unless Bass tackle changed their original blending block I used months ago

4k for the injection machine for starters and the room to use it.There have been reported problems using salt w/ the machine but I believe they have been corrected.Custom,multi-cavity CNC injection mold projects can run up to 1k each( and more w/ high detail) and I have 3- possibly 4 in the works for 2011.No big secrets here to anyone who has performed hours of 2 color injection without the use of potential Pyrex bombs waiting to detonate.My eyes and face are worth much more then $100.00+ worth of borosilicate lab beakers. Here it is- the injectors and mixing block must be heated to maintain an internal temperature of 325-350 degrees.The entire injector must maintain that heat range from top to bottom. The mixing block can be pre-heated in a toaster oven and possibly the heated plastisol from the injector will keep it from clogging through multiple injections- that remains to be seen.Thin aluminum injectors draw less heat from the plastisol vs. heavy gauge aluminum injectors.The injector tips do not have to lock in place but again,that could be personal preference. The entire 2 color injector must be light in weight to allow for the weight of the plastisol .You have to be able to draw the plastic from 2 different colored lab beakers,quickly attach the heated mixing block and inject approximately 24 molds w/out worrying about the plastisol thickening or the mixing block clogging and falling off when moving from mold to mold. Market the heated, 2 color injector for +/-$500.00 and you'd sell a bunch vs. a 4K injection machine for those who wish to do limited 2 color, commercial injection once a week w/consistent,no hassle results.

If I don't like it ,I'll tell Bear and then you.There's much more @issue here then the blending block. That's merely the 1st caveat to overcome concerning two color injecting.Maintaining constant temperature and viscosity of the plastic inside of BOTH injectors(w/out the chance of exploding Pyrex cups) is the major caveat as they both must be exactly the same for the ability to inject 24 molds in one round w/consistent ,professional results.The blending block must also be clog free during the 1st round.Anything innovative takes time and $ to develop.I'm not interested in a two-color injector /blending block that clogs after a few molds have been injected.

I ordered it two days ago and it's on the way. There's other,important and practical discussion taking place on a new custom ,two-color injector between myself and Bear.I don't wait for others to comment on new products-especially from Bear's. I order it and if I don't like it,Bear makes it right or gives me a credit on account.David always listens to constructive criticism and is willing to modify products to meet commercial customer demands. That's why he's no#1 in my book. I'll post results of Bear's new blending block.

UPDATED LIST BEAR”S TUBE INJECTION MOLDS for SALE All molds are in “like new” condition Credit card Sales Only Sales processed through my secure web-site All molds shipped U.S.P. S. Priority Mail www.wincoscustomlures.com 5 cavity 2” Curly tail grub molds------(Quantity 2) Retail $59.50---------Sale $49.00 each Both are SOLD ____________________________________________________________ 4” Tube Molds Complete w/2” Nose insert/2’’ Skirt Mandrel (Quantity 6) Retail $89.00-----------------Sale $60.00 each 8 extra mandrels and nose pieces The same inserts and mandrels as above (Quantity 8 -----------------------------------------------------Retail $44.00 ea---------------Sale $24.00 each Take all 4'' Tube molds and mandrels-----$525.00 (shipped) __________________________________________________________ 4- 3.5” Tube Molds Complete w/1 1/2” Nose insert/1 3/4’’ Skirt Mandrel (Quantity 6) Retail $80.00-----------------Sale $55.00.00 each 5 are SOLD 1 (one) 3 1/2" tube mold complete is left for sale $55.00 9 extra mandrels and nose pieces The same inserts and mandrels as above (Quantity 8 -----------------------------------------------------Retail $42.00 ea---------------Sale $25.00.00 each PM or call 215-781-2515 9am-9pm EST

They're on the way-you'll have them in 2-3 days. 1(one) 3 1/2" Tube mold complete w/ mandrel and nose piece is left $55.00 Both 2" ,5 cavity injection grub molds are sold.

JIM, My website and baits are geared primarily to smallmouth bass fishing although I will continue to manufacture my hot-selling LMB baits... SMB in rivers require a small diameter tube mold and length. I've already spent mucho $ on a specific 3 1/4" custom tube mold set-up(12 molds and 24 mandrels) but I want an additional smaller size. These tough economic times have affected everyone and I must "pull in the reigns" a bit. I have to sell these to order to justify the purchase of additional, custom CNC molds. Have a great holiday season- Al

Lurecraft !

BEAR’S SINGLE CAVITY HINGED, TUBE INJECTION MOLDS All molds are in MINT condition * 3.5” Tube Molds Complete w/1 1/2” Nose insert/1 3/4’’ Skirt Mandrel (Quantity 6) Retail $80.00-----------------Sale $70.00 each * 9 extra mandrels and nose pieces The same inserts and mandrels as above (Quantity 8 -----------------------------------------------------Retail $42.00 ea---------------Sale $32.00 each Take all price-----------------------------------------------------$500.00 All 6 molds can be shot w/1 full medium injector w/a 5/8” port Bear’s Injection Grub molds – shoots 5 @ a shot All molds are in MINT condition 1- 5 cavity 2” Curly tail HINGED grub molds------(Quantity 2) Retail $59.50---------Sale $49.00 each Take both--------------------------------------------------$78.00 Both molds can be shot w/ ½ full medium injector 5/8” port 215-781-2515 9am -9pm

Single cavity injection molds are a piece of cake for two-color injecting. Multi-cavity stick molds from Bears also shoot two-color baits w/ relative ease and consistency

Cadman gives sage advive

I made them many years ago . Do-it Molds used to have what they called a spinner jig mold.

These are made w/Bear's single injection tube molds

The bass don't care one bit! I use Bear's tube injection molds and hand dip various tubes in clear plastisol after the injection to create a smooth finish. I do not dip my small tubes. Believe it or not,they hold up just as will as the dipped tubes.

Agreed. I had the same good,experiences for 5 years until...KABOOM-all over the shop floor and me from the waste down There were pieces/little chunks of glass all over the floor and shelves.It's the exploding part that has me snake bitten.I would not have been so alarmed if it cracked and the hot plastisol just leaked out.

Here's the link for measuring cups that can tolerate hot and cold extremes http://www.containerstore.com/shop?showDS=true&Nmpt=&Ntt=borisilicate+measuring+cups&submit.x=0&submit.y=0&submit=search Don't bang on them or put un necessary pressure on the rims as they are fragile.

Jim, I spoke w/ Kevin @ Bass Tackle many months ago about my dislikes w/ his two color injector.( which I sent back for a refund) 1- the adapter clogs easily after 1 or two molds-(easy fix) 2- the adapter falls off when moving from mold to mold(completely un-acceptable) 3- the thicker aluminum of the two injectors removes the heat from the plastisol( requires thinner materials) I discussed my recommendations / fixes and was under the impression(after discussion them w/ Kevin) that he was going to proceed w/ constructive changes. That apparently did not happen. I will not use any two-color injection w/ the aforementioned problems for commercial production.

Jim, I'll take a strong exception to your complete statement. My Pyrex exploded(like a hand grenade) after it was removed from the Microwave and I was holding it @ waist height stirring it.It started to fragment @ the base before exploding. It had NO contact w/ a cold surface whatsoever. You're playing w/fire using Pyrex cups - I did a complete post on the subject months ago w/ an alternative,high and cold temp. lab mixing cup. I guess the problem is the $15.00 each that no one whats to spend for them- that's why I keep reading the silly excuses for using cheap,Pyrex mixing cups.Just Google exploding Pyrex and read on. Al

Possibly the labels were filled out incorrectly.I've shipped orders to Canada twice-the 1st was in customs for 10 days and the last was only in there for 3 days.I ship priority mail and they're sitting in Canadian customs in 2 days from the date I ship in the U.S.A.

There's many different and important aspects of a multi-cavity ,hand pour lead mold. 1- proper venting so the cavity fills will harder lead -necessary for spinner baits and buzz baits so they don't loosen up 2- making the mold to adapt to various size hooks 3- designing custom work w/o any flashing 4- custom wire guards/ eye sockets/-double barbs cost extra money 5- lead molds must have handles 6- proper design of the sprue makes it easy to remove and leave little to smooth. I've used plenty of Do-it molds over the past 25 years. Now that I've experience the joys of custom CNC molds,I'll gladly spend the extra money for molds that pour completely w/ custom designs.

That looks like a carbon silicone mold. They are only good for so many pours and them they'll flash. I'm speaking from 2 years of experience w/ many,custom made molds of that material. Never-ever again, CNC molds are the way to go but-you'll wait for months to get them. Lurecraft and Bears Baits will be starting to make CNC molds in the next few months. I'm note sure if they will be doing lead molds. Try K-molds in Ohio

BBK gives "point-on" advice.I have found that 1 teaspoon per 16 oz. of plastisol will increase the stiffness considerably.That said,you must add the hardener to the plastisol BEFORE you start to heat it and STIR THE COLD MIX THOROUGHLY ! Stirring the mix occasionally during the heating process will assure a completely mix w/ good results. Personally,I'd save the super soft for stick and wacky worms.Lurecraft #508 and/or Chemionics medium w/ give you a harder plastic.