smallmouthaholic

You can detail all of your operating & material( including development and maintain a website )cost down to the penny. That said, the market will only pay so much for a product. You have to establish & separate yourself from the mega injection companies w/ superior ,quality products. This requires years and more $ then you'd ever expect to spend. A small,well organized hand injection business is most difficult to fully support the cost of a basic lifestyle.Distance yourself from the gimme,gimme crowd and consignment stores and you'll have some extra income @ the end of the year. Self-satisfaction from creating your own ,successful product w/ an expanding,repeat customer base is paramount to your success. The cost of multiple cavity injection molds are expensive but they work & produce for a lifetime as plastisol cost keep re-occurring month after month after year

Molds can and are a deprecating item on you taxes. What about realistic office/shop expenses ? Phone ,internet,domain name protection, utility expenses and stationary expenses. It's all part of the picture and the bottom line!

Powered salt can change the color of your plastics. Try some snow flake salt from MF .

I cook all my commercially available scents into the plastic-some believe it is cooked off. Good ,commercial scents do not. As always,the bass have the final say

Shouldn't be a problem

My CPA didn't even know about form #637. My local I.R.S. agent was very helpful 11 years ago.

MEK will soften plastic baits-Acetone will not. Acetone evaporates much faster then MEK Both are excellent metal parts cleaner cleaners

I wonder why it doesn't work. Unfortunately,you got what you paid for.

Spike-it soft plastic paint -why try to re-invent the wheel!

I have a custom,twin injector w/ 3 blending blocks for sale in the classsifieds- http://www.tackleunderground.com/tu_classifieds/_/for-sale/economy-2-color-injecting-system-r1608

Innovative-Congratulations!

Lenard, Thank you. Injection is the majority,hand -pour is of the minority. I myself started out as hand pour 12 years ago and believe many of us( who sell baits commercially) started that way. Once you get into injection,then the desire for two-color is around the corner.It's a never ending money pit- whether your hobby or pro. One has to draw the line on both avenues. I'm happy and satisfied @ my level of commercially selling baits and have absolutely no intention of buying Zorn machines. Trying to complete w/ the established mass producers is a fast track into bankruptcy. Al

Guys, I didn't say he had to have a shooting star,I just told him in detail what I use.Not a problem to fill a cup and stir then draw plastic from. There are caveats using Pyrex and hand stirring. Making your own baits is not a cheap hobby to get involved in. The majority will use injection molds and eventually want two-color products for their own use.If you want to continue the crucifixion directed @ me,have @ it.

You won't have that problem if you use the Shooting Star System w/ stirrers. I use Bear's Ultra fine salt & Reptile sand from Petco. Cutting the bait open w/ a razor blade shows equal distribution throughtout the bait. I do not use Pyrex cups when ballast is added to specific plastics

Without question!

100% Correct-I'll add w/out a stirring system and accurate temperature monitoring,your June bug will change color quickly. Even w/ a good stirring system you have to know the temp. of your plastic and monitor it religiously Keep it close to 300 after it's in a pouring state.-add a couple of drops of red to your June bug.

A good swim-bait has excellent tail action on the drop ,slow reeling action across the bottom and will not roll over(central balance). A thick body entering the tail section will reduce tail action.IMO & experience- oval rings on a swim-bait do nothing to enhance the bite. Swim-baits are reaction and site feeding baits .Have we forgotten the Slugo,stick worms and Brewer slider worms that have caught boat loads of bass w/ a gliding action? Edited for spelling

That looks like Malon,plastic coated wire- 40 - 60 lb test should do the job.

Just direct w/o sugar coating.

Mark- you can sugar coat the names/problems today but useless,politically correct rhetoric from the affluent accomplishes "0" and cost more $ in the long run. Facts are difficult for most to understand so we'll ban lead in fishing tackle,, do nothing concerning antiquated sewage treatment facilities,ignore endocrine disruptors and continue flying around the country as those "in the know'' fly around in their private jets,spewing copius amounts of CO2 preaching their support for global warming. https://www.google.com/search?q=endocrine+disruptors+polluting+our+rivers&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 https://www.google.com/search?q=private+jet+pollution+in+the+atmosphere&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 http://www.theblaze.com/contributions/google-flying-high-and-polluting-the-air-with-government-bought-fuel/ http://asafishing.org/advocacy/legislative-action/lead-in-fishing-tackle/

It was not supported by the sport fishing industry.I'm sure the "tree huggers and loon lovers" will try again and fail. Just like "global warming"- it seems groups today have a narrative they are supporting- w/out facts and science. Just look @ the pollution that continues today in our rivers from endocrine disruptors that have effected humans and fish. One is birth control residues that out current water filtration systems cannot remove. I don't hear or see the fanatics yaking about this.

Solvent based paint dries in minutes- no clear required. Offensive & dangerous smell is non-existent w/ good booth and exhaust. I prefer the 1 step method for the 1,000's of swim-baits I paint per year Tried dipping w/ water base years ago( just to be objective) - took forever to dry. No thank you!

You don't have to mount it-simply set it on top of your work bench. You can break the collars if you expand too far. I load the multi color tabs and pull through the opening w/ tweezers