smallmouthaholic

All of mine were custom designed that maintain central balance,won't roll-over on their side and have excellent tail action on the drop.

Vertical ,fat belly baits in larger sizes have a problem getting rid of air. You can vent them 'till the cows come home and there will still be a problem

Custom molds are expensive and can be time consuming to finalize. Good CNC mold makers are always busy.Stick w/ store bought baits and save $ until you have the $ to create your dream bait. Good luck!

I have 170 custom CNC injection molds for soft plastics of which 45 are multi-cavity(6-12 cavities) w/ 18 new single cavity molds on the way 45+ custom CNC lead molds 98% of my molds are made by Chris Archer of Ultra-molds 1-You can read volumes concerning stick worms on TU 2-Then you can read all the threads concerning the various plastisols available today. Keep the Tylenol handy!! Edited for additional content

http://www.barlowstackle.com/Pro-Skirt-Tool--P815.aspx

Why not call the MFG for accurate info? Bruce will answer all of your questions. You may get an answering message- so leave your message w/ area code and phone # and he will call you back. He is not there on Fridays Bruce Mac Elroy Spike-it plastisol 912-225-4533 EXT-106

Yes! Don't buy them.

Take a file and slightly rough up the 4 sides of the round upper shaft the blade rotates on

I'm amazed that one would even thing of using battery lead for baits. Frugality is one thing,common sense is another.

You'll have to experiment and keep accurate notes /records.Generally speaking, a 3 part new plastic to 1-2 parts used will work. Lighter colors require exact ratios- especially if you're adding ballast and salt to the mix. Generally. 3 parts new to 1 part used for light colors.providing the used plastic has not changed to an undesirable darken hue which in most cases cannot be brought back to the original color due to contamination. Used,laminated colors are an entirely different subject-some will work ,many will not.

MF has a nice,pour able viscosity to it.

It sounds like you're using the Lurecraft hardener which is an absolute nightmare to use.

MF hardener can be added any time during the heating process w/ excellent results. No need to stir it every 30 seconds when using MF plastic

I said "you may have trouble" No attempt to blackball you @ all-gee wiz, are you that paranoid? Not up in arms about someone else's post. Try not to be so thinned skinned when you receive a direct answer. Have a good day and a better one tomorrow

Not having a bad day @ all !

You were given a direct answer to your question- unfortunately w/out the sugar coating you think you deserved/desired. There's a phone # to reach Bears-which is not always answered promptly. Man up and stop w/ the crybaby excuses. some folks on this site are simply helpless and want everything done or handed to them. You labeled a professional as condescending and may have trouble in the future from obtaining correct and helpful answers from those of us who manufacture soft and lead baits professionally. You won't get answers from any of the major MFG's on here for sure

Call the manufacture and ask why-817-281-9488 - Phone edited to add: I've never experience baits getting hard or a chemical smell over time- they do get greasy .

Come on fellas. What is wrong w/ 4-7 bass per bait??. 10 ct per $8.00 bag w/ a 4 bass average =$.20 per bait. That can reduced more if you use the old ones for melters.Basic arithmetic has merit here.There are times when a super soft bait is the deal- so save the torn ones,dry them thoroughly in the hot sun on a pan and re-melt them w/ a bit of new plastisol. Reduce your cost per bait!!

I was speaking about a experience w/ a 5 gallon pail years ago. 55 gallon drum mixers are readily available. Never had a problem mixing MF since there is no hard packing- ever! https://www.google.com/search?q=55+gallon+drum+mixers&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Mark- i won't mention brand names except 1. MF can sit forever and won't hard pack. Some do it over a month or two. One in particular notoriously hard packs in a short time period. Years ago, I ran down an fully charged, 18vlt drill battery trying to mix the concrete and it still had hard plastisol on the bottom. It must be in the formulation of the plastisol w/ less expensive,raw products.

Stay away from hard packing plastisol- been there ,done that! It's not worth the time,frustration and equipment to try and loosen up the concrete on the bottom -no matter how cheap the price. You'll end up getting inconsistent results w/ your desired flexibility in your finished product.

I tried the glass beads Monte SS recommended.The end of the plunger and quad "O"ring scratched moderately after running 2 cups of the specified plastisol/glass bead mix through. The injector did jam slightly on start-up each time. I can imagine more severe and possibly detrimental scratching if use often. I will not run this through my two color injection system.Years of injecting a custom salt/sand mix caused "O" damage to all injectors and the two color system. The new Polysil plastisol is the clearest and most heat tolerate plastisol I've used to date. That being said, more tests w/ varied media and use of glass beads w/ Polysil is necessary. Placing newly injected baits on a hard service then placing them in a garage where temps reach 95 degrees caused them to bleed a greasy residue. Placing the baits on a porous surface eliminated this as the surface absorbs the slime. Schools still out but time will tell

It is very easy to get caught not paying the federal excise tax.Once on their radar screen it's only a matter of time before the knock on your door w/ the flash of the badge.If you take credit card or check payments for your products, they are already aware of you. BTW- the 10% excise tax we pay quarterly on gross sales is deductible from the gross income on your annual tax return-criminal penalties and associated interest are not. A jealous competitor can easily drop dime on you.On occasion,I talk w/ the I.R. S. agent who signed my form #637.Usually the subject of the "under the table'' crowd comes up. I am always asked," do you have any names for me?" Big or small they will investigate you. The last thing you need in this aggravating,back- stabbing business is the I.R. S. harassing you Edited for spelling

Nothing on the planet (except a Zorn machine w/ expensive molds)is faster then a custom,CNC ,10-12 cavity,hand injection mold made to your 3" swim-bait specifications.Hand pour molds w/ all of their associated caveats,fell out of popularity many years ago. Possibly one of the CNC manufacturers on this site could make you a custom,4 cavity injection mold-if you can and are willing to spend the $ for one. A true 3" swim-bait mold cannot have a thick/wide tail section in conjunction w/ a dense,wide body section ,leading into the tail for good action on the fall w/ 1/16 to 1/8 oz. weighted heads-whether the mold is hand pour or injection.The problem arises when you try to hand pour a mold made w/ the aforementioned specifications.

Harbor Freight products are usually cheap imitations. Long after the sweetness of low prices is forgotten.the bitterness of poor quality remains!